Knitting Paradise® - Knitting and Crochet Forum
Home | Knitting Digest | Active Topics | Newest Pictures(new!!!) | Search | Login | Register | Help
Why Would You Ever Want to Pay For Knitting and Crochet Patterns or Lessons When You Can Get All That for Free?
Read this:

We have some of the most skilled knitters and crocheters in the world posting patterns and techniques like you've never seen before. And some of them only post on our website and nowhere else, so you won't find these patterns anywhere else no matter how much time you spend searching! So keep reading.

Unlike other websites, we don't try to pitch specific brands of hooks or needles, yarn, or paid tutorials, while collecting sales commission.

Instead, we have other people, who are great knitters and crocheters, share with you what they know about knitting and crochet. What accessories they use, which yarn is the best for which type of project, which techniques work and which don't.

It's all completely unbiased. Our users simply have no reason to lie to you. They are people just like you.

And we provide a free platform for you and them to communicate. So you get to discover this information straight from the source, from people just like you, not from editors of some magazine or sales reps of some company.

This is what makes us different from other knitting and crochet websites out there that try to sell you something while claiming they are trying to help you.

If you are a beginner, intermediate, advanced, or a professional knitter or crocheter, then the benefits of signing up for our free weekly knitting/crochet e-mail newsletter are:

• We cover hand knitting, machine knitting, and crochet.

• Each week you'll be receiving new tips and techniques.

• Daily, you'll be receiving a knitting/crochet forum digest with the latest pictures, discussions and patterns.

• If you ever have a question or need help, you can always ask, and we'll cover your question in the following newsletter issue.

• Discover the fastest way to knit (and to crochet) a sock... while keeping the perfect heel and making sure the sock fits (not many knitters know this).

• Find out how to figure out how much yarn you need for a pattern if the pattern doesn't specify it (works for any project, a real life-saver sometimes).

• Learn how to pick up a dropped stitch, even from several rows below. It happens to absolutely everyone at some point. But don't worry, there exists a really simple fix.

• And if you ever run out of yarn, find out how to join any yarn in the middle of any project.

• If you can't find the pattern that you need, or if you don't know which pattern would be most appropriate for a specific project, then you can ask our other users to help you figure it out. We even have a dedicated "Pattern Requests" section on our website that's all about finding new patterns.

• The same goes for any problems and questions about specific techniques. We have experienced users who are always helping those in need with just the right advice.

Note to crocheters: We cover both knitting and crochet on our website. The name Knitting Paradise is just a matter of history of how this website was started. These days, close to 50% of content on our forum is about crochet. So it doesn't matter if you primarily knit or crochet (or if you only crochet), you'll still find just as many patterns, tips, and tutorials that are relevant to your specific interests.

• And of course, as I said it's all completely FREE!

• Let me repeat that. Since for some reason a lot of people contact us asking if the membership is really free: we are a social website for knitters and crocheters, so we don't sell anything, and we don't charge any fees. It's as simple as that.

Here is how to proceed and what to expect:

Enter your name and e-mail address below, and you'll be instantly added to our knitting and crochet mailing list distribution. You'll receive a one-time confirmation e-mail. Right after that, the first e-mail with today's digest will be forwarded to you. The signup process is completely automated, so you are just a few minutes away from discovering what our existing users already received earlier today. So you'll get up to speed right away on what's the latest on our website, without any long introductions or other delays.

First name:

E-mail address:

Going forward, the next digest will be released in just a few hours. So if you don't sign up now, you'll also miss everything covered in it too.

Knitting and Crochet Workshops 'copies of all classes
If you would like to post a reply, then please login (if you already have an account) or register (if you don't).
Page: 1 2 next>>
Sep 8, 2012 13:19:56   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
HI EVERYONE! June 21, 2016- I have spent the last couple of days, editing this whole topic and removing my avatars etc. I hope it will full of information that you will find welcome and useful!
Please go to the end of this topic on page 2 and you will see page one and page two, pdf documents. They are there for you to use and keep on your desktop. I hope you will do this. I don't want this information to disappear if I have to close the workshops. If they are common knowledge and people mention the documents, they will remain part of KP. So, please copy the documents. The information pages will remain here with all the links too. Shirley

I am gathering information which will be kept permanently
on this site. if you have some tips or interesting
knowledge, please pm me and I will make sure it is
put in this section

I welcome you all. please come here again and check
out all our workshops .

Please click on 'My profile' at the top of the KP page - (not your avatar)
and read the different sections available -
please 'subscribe' to Knitting and Crochet workshops with designer1234
the section will then be on your
'home page' permanently and all you have to do is click on it and you will find us.

#1-- LINKS

These links are given to me by KP members - if you have a good link that
would be helpful for this list,
please pm me and I will happily post it with the links below.

Here is the one for yarn weights and the needles
suggested to use for the various weights as well
as how to make a needle counter

**************************** ************
Garment sizing
Yarn substitution guide (better)

a site for abbreviations, both US and UK:

This site has much more...sweater generators, stitch index with patterns,
chart abbreviation explanations, and even 'fun' projects.
a site for a great knitting dictionary. [i]I am using the above site for stitches too,
but I still like the way this one is organized, sorting stitches into 'reversible', knits and purls,
lace, unique and even edgings, etc., so I am still including this one[/].

And lastly, this site is a great site for showing how to make all different types of
increases and decreases, but it also shows what they look like together so you can
choose by appearance. The increases are on the first page and the decreases are listed
on the right side of the page.

In each case they have videos to demonstrate exactly what to do and then they give you
the choice of watching the English (throwing) method, or the Continental (picking) method.
This alone makes the site usable for everyone.
Sep 9, 2012 14:53:10   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)


1) Arachne sock calculator
Sep 11, 2012 17:48:39   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

here is an interesting way of following a pattern.
The picture tells it all.

I just received this information from KrestieKew
and I want to add it to this post. thanks!
""Designer: Might be a good idea to note this
with the idea, for pdf (printed pages) the cardboard
piece if from a tablet etc, needs to be turned
landscape or sideways in order for the pdf size
pages to fit; next tip, to make more 'permanent'
get a roll of clear tape, cover the cardboard front
and back. Will make it stronger ... but...if you
wanted to get fancy, buy a folder, plastic type
from office supply carefully mark the slit and it
would last lots longer
a piece of cardboard, wider than a sheet of printing
- with a slit- cut in it with either an exacto knife or
sharp scissors, wide enough for one row to be clear.

Sep 15, 2012 08:54:13   #
dragonflylace (a regular here)
I hope that this tip will help those who have a problem
with reading charts for knitting.

Before I beginning read ALL of the instructions. photocopy the pattern
and enlarge the charts.then color code the charts for the different stitches.

always use the same yellow for yarn for knit two together for ssk...etc.
make sure that all charts for all patterns use the
same colors. Then when I am ready with the gauge and the colors..
I use a magnetic board. to mark my spot. If I am traveling, I use sticky notes.

Put the sticky note (or the magnetic strip) ABOVE the row you are on....then you
can see the last row you worked where the yarn overs are and where the k2tog are
located....this helps me to keep on the right track of the pattern.

This makes lace knitting so much easier!
Sep 17, 2012 10:49:27   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
INFORMATION: how to make a good SWATCH
---------------------S W A T C H ----- *IGNORE if you are experienced.

Cast on 20 stitches -- DON'T PULL IT TIGHT - you
might want to use one size larger needles than the
size you plan on using for two rows of the cast on
edge. then go to the size needles you plan on
using -
knit a square in stocking stitch (if you plan on
using a stocking stitch for the majority of your
project- try to knit the same tension you always

Cast off once you have a square - mark down
in your notebook under 'swatch'
how many stitches you cast on - with what
size needles and then what size needles you
do the whole swatch with

Once you have a square --

you will then carefully count the number of stitches over 4 inches
( I use a little tool for measuring my swatch -
see attached picture. It is very handy - you lay
the measuring tool on the knitted swatch IN THE
CENTER OF THE SWATCH NOT AT THE EDGE making sure that you have
one side of the opening on the edge of a stitch -

The opening is 2" long and 2" tall -- carefully
count how many stitches there are in the two
inch window horizontally - and mark it down
in your notebook. cut that number in half and
you will have the STITCHES PER INCH.

The vertical opening is done the same way, only
you will count the number of ROWS in the two
inch vertical window -- and mark it down - then
you will divide that number in half and you will
write down the number of ROWS PER INCH-

NOTE - it is best to get a counter like the one
I have shown you -but you can,
you are careful -using a flat ruler and measure
two inches in the 'center' of the swatch- and
count the number of stitches, figure out your stitches
and rows per inch. I would suggest you try to
find the counter as I use mine all the time.

Note:you might want to buy an extra ball if you plan
on doing cables or a pattern that increases stitches
- You should do a swatch of a sample of your
addition eg. cables - and incorporate the extra
stitches in your pattern.
if you can find one use this swatch measuring tool and needle sizer
if you can find one use this swatch measuring tool...
Sep 19, 2012 15:01:11   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
here is a document which shows the MAGIC KNOT--it is quite good. I hope it transfers okay.
It was posted recently on KP and one of the ladies suggested I post it here.

Oct 26, 2012 10:29:49   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
from LaurieJanesplace - KP member

There is a "better" cast on for every type of project
including ribbing if someone really wants better -
match your cast on to the project

Backwards Loop Cast-On

This is a very simple cast-on (it's also called the
Child's Cast-On, used for teaching children how
to knit), and, while it doesn't leave the sturdiest
or nicest edge (which is why I don't use it all the
time), it does have one key factor going for it:
it only uses one strand of yarn.

This means that you can use it to ADD 5 or 8
more stitches to your cast-on using just your
working yarn without having to rip the whole
thing out and measure out more tail.

Best garter stitch bind off –ever
How to cast on in the middle of a row(You have a number of options).

knitted cast-on:
cable cast on compares to knitted cast on

cable cast-on:

backward loop cast-on:

Cable cast on Firmer than knit cast on?:NO

Stretch not for hats or sweater bottoms

Cable cast on Firmer than knit cast on:NO
Stretch not for hats or sweater bottoms

Cable cast on matches Traditional bind off
The edge of this cast on will always look andremain firm.
The first row worked after the
cast on is a right side row.

Can be used for casting on stitches with work in progress

a.Can be used for some button holes
b.Works well with dense stitch patterns that
don’t have much stretch
c.Creates an edge with a neat uniform
appearance when executed with even tension
d.Works well with all weights of yarn
Can be used for all cast on edges: be
careful not to work to tightly.

a.Cast on is not very elastic and tends to be firm
and dense – but that may be desirable.
b.Easy to work cast on too tightly
c.Edge of cast on will be tight, but the stitches on the needle will
appear loose. Knit into back of stitch to tighten on next row.
d.Cast-on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat:
it will roll toward the knit side.
video Continental

Channel Island Cast on Channel Island Cast on

Crochet Cast ON
crochet cast on – loose – not very stable (may be used for provisional cast on)

Eastern method of casting on in a closed tube for double knitting

Eastern method of casting on in a closed tube for double knitting
Double knitting 2 socks tutorial pt 1 of 3

Double knitting 2 socks tutorial pt 1 of 3

knitted bind-off: Crochet cast-on to match knitted bind-off:
Finger (thumb) cast on
finger cast on

Frilled Cast on

German Twisted Cast On
AKA Old Norwegian cast on or
Twisted German cast on

Great for sox; similar to long tail but more elastic
German Twisted Cast On (version of the long tail)

This video knitting tutorial will help you learn how to knit the guernsey cast on.
This method of starting a project is a decorative cast on traditionally used when making
Guernsey sweaters. It consists of a series of knots connected by short strands of yarn that
make small eyelets along the edge of your work
I cord Cast on

what does the cast on looks like?
The bind off as well, done in I cord
Italian cast on
Italian cast on
Knitted Italian Cast On
Judy’s Magic Cast On For toe up sox h

Judy Becker's Magic Cast On

Knit Bind Off In Pattern
Knit cast on
Knitted cast on,
Knitting cast on Easy, stretch

Knitted-on Cast On

This is a very common cast on because it feels like normal knitting. It varies just slightly
from the cable cast on but the effect is quite different. The looser edge created at the bottom
sometimes gets slightly distorted near the edges where the seams are put toether.
The traditional bind off is the best match.


a.Easy to remember
b.Can be used to start any project, or to add stitches with knitting in progress
c.Fairly elastic; size of stitches can be controlled easily.
d.Works well with all weights of yarn.
e.Both sides look exactly the same, so it doesn’t matter what row you work first
when beginning to knit.

a.Can stretch our of shape easily if done too loosely.
b.First row of knitting will look loose and appear to have holes.
Knit into the back of the stitches (on the first row worked after cast on only)
to tighten them up and close the holes.
c.Cast on edge tends to be loose and can snag easily or pull out of shape.
Cast on with a smaller needle to eliminate this problem.
d.Cast on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat; it will roll
toward the knit side.
Emily Ocker's Cast On

For circular shawls EZ

Grandma's Favorite Bind Off (Loose Bind Off)

Liat's Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-a-Time ANYTHING!

Liat's Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-a-Time ANYTHING!
Long Tail Cast on
Double cast on/
Continental cast on/
Sling shot/
Two strand/
Y cast on
Or sling shot cast on Good all purpose cast on


Long-Tail Cast-On for Beginning Knitters
Knit Long Tail cast on onto two needles held together
Long tail cast on tips Part 1

Long Tail cast on tips Part 2

Long tail Cast on or Sling shot cast on

This is the most common and versatile (useful) cast on used by knitters

The result is a nice looking edge if the cast on row is used as the right side and
the first row worked is a wrong-side row. For a bind off that matches use
traditional bind off.


a.Can be used to start virtually any knitting project.
b.Easy to execute, but tension must be controlled.
c.Two ways to work cast on: slingshot method and thumb method.
well with all weights of yarn.


a.Requires long enough tail to work the cast on: if you run out you have to start over
b.Correct placement of the yarn in your fingers is essential.
c.Easy to work this cast on too tightly.
d.Cast on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat; it roll toward the knit side.

long tail cast-on for ribbing 2

long tail cast-on for ribbing 2

Cast on for ribbing

2 ball Long Tail Cast On

Long Tail Cast On Thumb method


Knitting bind-off that matches long-tail cast
Knitting bind-off that matches long-tail cast-on:

Picot cast on (written) video

Picot cast off (written)
picot bind off Vickie Howell better than the other one
Provisional Cast On way to add stitches that you'll want to knit from again


Provisional Crochet Cast On
provisional crochet cast on
Knitting Daily TV: Provisional Cast-ons
How to: Provisional cast on (waste yarn method)

Extra Stretchy Cast On for Ribbing
Extra Stretchy Cast On for Ribbing
2 stitches at a time
Very Stretchy Cast-on SHORT VERSION
sock tops or hat cast on
Stretchy Cast On

Knitting Stretchy Bind Off

Knitting Stretchy Bind Off
not nec ribbing
My Favorite Stretchy Bind OffSideways cast on

Russian Stretchy bind off

sewn bind off
sewn bind off

Single Cast On
Backward loop

Thanks for all the great links Laurie! Here's a new favorite of mine--
Tillybuddy's very stretchy rib cast on:
Knitting Stretchy Bind Off
not nec ribbing
My Favorite Stretchy Bind Off

Two needle cast on
Cast on with two needles
Casting on Over Two Needles

Tubular Cast On Used for double knitting

Really stretchy edges


Turkish cast on aka Eastern cast on

Turkish cast on aka Eastern cast on

Turkish Cast-on for the Beginners Sock KAL Sept 2010
Eastern (aka Turkish) Cast on

Wrap Cast On
E wrap cast on/

Single cast on/ loop cast on
Easiest of all but not easy to keep tension with


Nov 7, 2012 10:10:35   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

Try this dressmaker's measure needed bust ease:

Tie a ribbon around yournatural waist.
From the highest point on your shoulder, measure a vertical line to the rib along
your back
and along your front, following the slope of the bust.

The difference between these two measurements is how much length should be
added with short-rows
Nov 8, 2012 08:34:34   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
Nov 17, 2012 17:56:30   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)


first of all - KP members use two different sized hooks depending on whether they
use metric hooks or US hooks.
here are 3 common crochet hook sizes.

size 8 is (H )- US = 5mm
Size 9 -is (I ) US = 5.5 mmsize l0 Is (J )- US = 6 mm

Here is information about different crochet -stitches
Chain (ch). Make loop in thread, insert hook in loop, and draw main length of thread through.
Continue to draw thread through each new loop formed until length desired.

Single Crochet (s c). Insert hook under 2 loops of st, draw thread through st
(2 loops on hook), thread over hook, draw through the 2 loops.

Half Double Crochet (half d c). Make like d c until there are 3 loops on hook;
then thread over and draw through all 3 loops.

Double Crochet (dc). Thread over hook, insert hook in st, and draw thread through
(3 loops on hook), thread over hook, draw through 2 loops, thread over, and draw through the 2 remaining loops.

Treble (tr). Thread over hook twice, insert hook in st and draw thread through st
(4 loops on hook), thread over, draw through 2 loops, thread over, draw through 2 loops,
thread over, draw through remaining 2 loops.

Double Treble (d tr), thread over hook 3 times; and for a Triple Treble (tr tr),
thread over 4 times, taking off 2 loops at a time as in the tr.

Slip Stitch (sl st). Insert hook through st, catch thread, and, with one motion,
draw through both the st and the 1 loop on hook. The sl st is used for joining, or when an invisible st is required.

Popcorn Stitch (pc st). Ch 1, 5 d c in next st, drop st from hook,
insert hook back in ch-1 and draw loop through the one on hook.

Block (bl) and Space (sp). Make 4 d c over 4 sts of preceding row (this forms 1 bl), ch 2, skip 2 sts, make 1 bl.

The bl and sp are used in Filet Crochet.

Picot (p). Make a ch of 3, 4 or 5 sts, according to length of p de sired,
and s c in the foundation or in the 1st st of ch.

Cross Stitch. Thread over twice, insert hook in st and draw thread through as for a tr
(4 loops on hook), thread over, and draw through 2 loops, thread over, skip 2 sts,
insert hook in next st, draw thread through (5 loops on hook), thread over and
draw off 2 loops at a time 4 times, ch 2, 1 d c in the center point of the cross, thus completing the cross.

Cluster. Make 3 more tr in the same st, always holding the last loop of each tr on the hook;
then, thread over hook and take off all remaining loops.
A tight ch st should then be made to fasten the cluster.

Knot Stitch. Draw loop out on hook ¼ inch, draw thread through, making a ch st of it.
Put hook between loop and single thread of this ch and make an s c.
Work another similar knot st, skip 4 sts of preceding row, 1 s c in next. Repeat from the beginning to end of row.
Make 2⅜-inch knot sts to turn, 1 s c over double loop at right of 1st center knot of preceding row,
1 s c over double loop at left of same knot. 2 knot sts and repeat.


Chain ....................................................... ch
Single Crochet ....................................... s c
Half Double Crochet ....................... half d c
Double Crochet ...................................... d c
Treble ......................................................... tr
Double Treble ......................................... d tr
Triple Treble .......................................... tr tr
Slip Stitch .............................................. sl st
Popcorn Stitch ................................... pc st
Block ........................................................ bl
Space ....................................................... sp
Skip .......................................................... sk
Picot ........................................................... p
Stitch ......................................................... st
Round .................................................... rnd
Inclusive ................................................ incl
Knit ............................................................. k
Purl ............................................................. p
* (asterisk) When this symbol appears, continue working until instructions refer you back to this symbol.

There is a chart below for translating crochet patterns written in British English crochet terms
into American English crochet terms. For example, a double crochet in British English is made the same way
as a single crochet in American English (it is just called by two different names)

Some antique patterns published in the United States in the late 1800s and early 1900s use British English
crochet pattern terms also. In any pattern or publication, there is usually a section giving a description of the
way each stitch is made and you can determine by that if the double crochet, for instance, is a British English
or an American English double crochet. Then you'll know if that entire publication is written in British or
in American English crochet terms.

Translating Crochet Terms Between British and American English

British vs American English Crochet Patterns

British English -- -USA - American English

double crochet (dc) single crochet (sc)
half treble (htr) half double crochet (hdc)
treble (tr) double crochet (dc)
double treble (dtr) treble (tr)
triple treble (trtr) double treble (dtr)
miss skip
tension gauge
yarn over hook (yoh) yarn over (yo)

Casting on: Make a loop over left needle, pass right needle behind the loop, thread over right needle,
draw through and place loop on left needle. Repeat for de sired length.

Slipping a stitch: Slip the stitch from left needle to right needle without working it.

Increasing: To increase a stitch, knit one stitch in regu lar way but without slipping the stitch
off the left needle, then knit another stitch through the back of same stitch and slip off.

Decreasing: To decrease a stitch, knit two together, or purl two together.
It is advisable to decrease the 2nd and 3rd stitches from edge to make an even edge.

Binding off: To bind off, knit two stitches the regular way, slip
the first stitch over the second. Knit another stitch and repeat until only one stitch remains.
Break thread and draw it through this last loop.

Knitting Plain: When desired number of stitches have been cast on,
pass the right needle through the first loop, thread over,
draw through and allow first stitch on left needle to slip off and repeat until no stitches remain on left needle.

Purling: Bring the thread in front of both needles.
Pass the right needle through the loop, forward and in front of left needle.
Thread over right needle and draw through, allowing stitch on left needle to slip off.

Ribbing: Cast on a number divisible by four, then knit 2, purl 2 across.
Start next row with purl 2, knit 2.

Many afghan links from John Dornan--
he says "You may or maynot already have this is an alphabet listing of Afghans to crochet
unfortunately it doesn't show the pictures of the different afghans and you have to select a name in order to see it.
be warned though that some of them don't open and besides that it could take you an age
to browse them all and then not find what you are looking for
anyway for what it is worth here is the address "
Knitting Needle conversions. US. metric, UK
Attached file:
Nov 18, 2012 11:27:02   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

Here are the links to very handy project sheets.
They go from baby to adult, cover all yarn thicknesses, needles, gauge.
You might need to zoom in to make the printing larger - I printed these - they are great!

LW1268 (top one) is knit and LW1269(bottom one) is crochet.

For the knit ones especially, you make any changes you want
- stripes, garter st, stockinette, twists, cables, you name it, you can adapt it from these patterns.
Nov 18, 2012 12:12:22   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
QUESTION: Can you doubleknit a portion of a single knit fabric? If so, how
would you recommend I do it?
I wanted the portion to be stuffed.
I am doing s a few balloons on a babyblanket,]
ANSWERS:- Beth and
Jessica Jean

[u]Beth said ---- I would knit the mainfabric and then go back and pick up stitches
where I want to make the stuffed portion. You
can bind off and tack down the open area afteryou stuff. Let me know if this works[./u]

Jessica Jean said ---
You can do it by double-knittingI cannot picture doing it in a balloon shape
but in a square shape ....
You would double the number of stitches (knit and purl into the same stitch with alternate
strands/colours of yarn) and work each side separately for desired size.

(more on double-
knitting): )

To stuff it, you would need to put alternate stitches onto separate needles - at least one
would need to be a circular or very flexible -insert the stuffing, then work them back
together by knitting one from both needles together.
That would close the pocket.

Yes, it is do-able, but - in my opinion - it wouldbe faster and less bothersome than doing
it the way Beth Chaya suggested.
Dec 3, 2012 16:50:41   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
This information as posted by irishsmitty in Dec./12

The Mitered Corner
If you want your finished blanket or jacket (or other piece on which you put a border)
to have a crisp corner, then you need to use the "miter" technique.

It's easy -- just do single stitches until you get to where you want to create a crisp corner.
Then, place 3 stitches into that corner. On the next row, place 3 stitches into the center stitch
of the 3-stitch corner from the previous row. Repeat until the border is the desired measurement

Hat size
When working in the round to make a hat, mathematics really helps to figure out the right size.

First, measure around the hat recipient's head, just right above the ears and across the forehead.
That will give you the circumference or perimeter of the finished hat. Divide that number by pi (3.14159).
That will give you the diameter (straight line measurement across the widest part) of the circle
that you will crochet before you start to decrease to make the sides and brim of the hat.

Straight Sides
I had a reader ask me the other day what is going on --
the sides of the blanket that she is crocheting are getting wider!
Chances are she is inadvertently adding a stitch or two at the end of each row.

When you start a project, you need to decide how you're going to count the stitches
at the beginning and end of each row and then follow that method consistently throughout

There are two basic ways to start a row:

1. let the chains at the beginning of the row count as a stitch;
that means that at the end of the row, you have to put a stitch into
the top of the chains from the previous row

or2the chains at the beginning of the row don't count as a stitch
and you put a stitch into the same stitch and each stitch across and, at the end of the row,
you do not put a stitch into the chains from the row below.

For example, let's say you are doing your rows in double crochet. At the beginning of a row, you can either

1) chain 3, count that ch-3 as your first stitch of the row,
and start double crocheting into the next stitch and each stitch across until you get to the end of the row
and then do a double crochet stitch into the top of the chain-3 from the row below
(which was the first stitch of that row),

or 2) chain 2 and do a double crochet stitch into the same stitch as the chain-2,
which then counts as your first stitch of the row, then double crochet across the row
and do not double crochet into the chain-2 of the row below.

Of course, you should also take the time to count the stitches in the row you've just finished crocheting
before going on to the next row until you feel comfortable that you are performing the same number
of stitches in each row
Feb 8, 2013 12:00:01   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
Color knitting information - from 'Have fun with color" workshop
I felt that this information was interesting - designer

question: can all three techniques be used in 1 item
a definate yes although the fairisle and the mosaic knitted fabrics
will much thicker than the intarsia knitted fabric
- as long as you allow for this you will be fine
the distinction between fairaisle intarsia and mosaic knitting is a little
blurred as to how are they different

Intarsia produces a knitted fabric not much different than a stockingette fabric .
The colours are not carried across the back . this method allows you to do much larger areas of colour
than fairaisle
or mosaic knitting an is cooler than fairaisle or mosaic knits. Although it can be charted the designs
are usually larger

mosaic the colour bands are created by slip stitches It may be read from a chart and produces
a thicker knitting fabric with less stretch in it than either fairailse or intarsia, the back is just as nice
cometimes as the front. only one colour is knitted on any row

Fairaisle patterns are usualy read from a chart . both colours are carried across the back at the same time
the patterns are usually small and have no more than 4 or five stitches of a colour before a change
Mar 2, 2013 11:13:09   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
There is INFORMATION below for translating crochet patterns written in
British English crochet terms into American English crochet terms.

For example, a double crochet in British English is made the same way as a single crochet in American English
(it is just called by two different names

Some antique patterns published in the United States in the late 1800s and early 1900s use
British English crochet pattern terms also
. In any pattern or publication, there is usually
a section giving a description of the way each stitch is made and you can determine by that if the double crochet,
for instance, is a British English or an American English double crochet.
Then you'll know if that entire publication is written in British or in American English crochet terms

Translating Crochet Terms Between British and American English

British English-- USA - American English
double crochet (dc)-- double treble (dtr)
miss-- skip
tension-- gauge
yarn over hook(yoh) -- yarn over (yo)
Page: 1 2 next>>
Knitting and Crochet Workshops 'copies of all classes
Home | Latest Digest | Back to Top | All Sections
Contact us | Privacy policy | Terms of use - Forum
Copyright 2004-2016 Knitting Paradise, Inc.