Knitting Paradise® - Knitting and Crochet Forum
Home | Knitting Digest | Active Topics | Newest Pictures | Search | Login | Register | Help
Copies of all closed workshops for use by KP Members - Designer1234
This topic is locked to prevent further replies.
If you would like to post a reply, then please login (if you already have an account) or register (if you don't).
Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 16 next>>
Jan 12, 2013 18:47:30   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

Welcome to our workshops.

We are excited to share that Darowil will be teaching this workshop on how to knit one toe up sock at a time using Magic Loop. If you are unfamiliar with the magic loop technique - read the requirements for needles and yarn here, then go to workshop #10 Learn magic loop, and
join darowil back here for Jan. 21st
...Start on page 1 of the magic loop workshop.

General guidelines for our workshop series. START HERE!
- Always start at this beginning post when first joining in
- Commenting on this workshop automatically signs you up . You do not need to take any further steps. These are FREE workshops. There is NO official sign up or fee.
* The alternate method to ‘join’ is to click the word WATCH just above and to the left of this post.
- Out of courtesy to the teacher, who has taken time out to do this for us, please let the TEACHER answer technique questions or pattern corrects first… UNLESS the teachers says that comments by the members is welcomed.
- If you have technical difficulties, please read the posts on our Workshop Home page, called TECH HELP. You find this by first clicking the words at the top or bottom of this page that say Knitting And Crochet Workshops With Designer1234 which takes you back to our workshop ‘Home’ page.
- When sharing these workshops with others, and please do…. Please share only this link. DO NOT SHARE A LINK TO AN INDIVIDUAL WORKSHOP. Those posts will be removed!
- These workshops will remain a permanent part of KP as long as KP operates. Our goal is to make these tutorials as easy to follow as possible. Therefore, over time, we will be deleting erroneous posts and ‘trimming’ posts. Please continue to post. Please do not be alarmed if your posts suddenly disappear. YOU ARE STILL a part of the workshop, you WILL STILL get updates…. You WON’T have to read through pages and pages of non-subject material to go back and find what you missed.
- When all else fails, and you have READ ALL the help we have already posted here and in our Help sections, we will reply to PM’s.

Your section managers – designer and prismaticr

Now, lets get crafting!
Jan 12, 2013 20:32:14   #
darowil (a regular here)
Although this workshop is closed it can still be read by anyone.
It is likely that all questions that you have will have been answered over the time this workshop has been opened so please read all the posts. The relevant sections have been clearly highlighted so you can see what section you are trying to find questions for. However if you still are struggling you can PM me

Hi and welcome to this my second workshop in the Magic Loop series. I have really enjoyed the learning magic loop workshop and looking forward to working on socks with some old mates and some new ones.

If any one is coming to this workshop unable to do the magic loop I’m sorry but you will first need to do my Magic Loop workshop. Learning the toe and magic loop at the same time will just not work. You don’t need to be experts, just to be able to do it- even working a part of a piece and then going on to the socks will work but you must be able to work comfortably in the round on magic loop for this workshop.

I know this is a little early to provide the information yet again, but this coming weekend is the major weekend for my husbands work calendar and I am very much involved as well. Therefore from Thursday to Monday my time (around Wednesday to Sunday for most of you) I will not be able to access KP and so I need to provide a few days for people to ask questions before I go away.

The pattern I will provide on the 21st January is a very basic sock. The pattern will not be posted until the 21st January. To ensure that you get notified when the pattern is posted go to the top of the page and just above the opening post are two boxes. One of these says WATCH, click on this and you will automatically be notified every time a new posting is made (if you post here first then you will also automatically be notified- in this case the box above will say unwatch and do not click this if you want notifications). This is all that you need to do to join in this workshop; no signup etc is needed.

Some people have asked about doing 2 at a time on one circular. I have tried this and didn’t like it. I found it took longer and was more confusing. Two balls of yarn means two lots of yarn to tangle- and you need to be very careful about which way you turn the work. All the extra pulling takes so long as well. . (Note that this is only my opinion and many people love this method.)

I do understand the risk of SSS (Second Sock Syndrome) and I do have some lonely unmatched socks lying around. However the large majority of my socks have their mates. But if you want to do two at once I suggest you use the method many use. It does require two circulars of the same size and two balls of yarn. You cast on and work one toe, then cast on and knit the second toe on the other circular. You then do the foot of one and then the second. And keep working like this.
This method could actually be good for learning the new techniques as you repeat it before you go and do the next new technique.

But for those interested in two at a time on one circular near the end of the workshop I will provide some general resources for sock knitting and include some for this method I will also give an general run down on sock construction etc. I thought of doing this first but I will wait and if it hasn’t been addressed during the workshop I will talk about it at the end so that you have a basic understanding to help you work out your own socks. It is a very basic construction that you will notice as you go anyway, if you haven’t already noticed it on the socks you wear.

The best guide for needle size is the ball band- each yarn can be slightly different.
I'm a non swatcher and tend to pick the size for my socks by what is hanging on my door free! But I always use between a 2.00mm and 2.5mm (US 0 or 1- we have a 2.25mm as well so that is one in between the US numbers) for 4 ply/fingering. BUT I am a loose needle who often needs to go down 2 needle sizes to get anywhere near the right tension. So depending on your average tension you can determine which needle size to use. Loose knitters pick the smallest size (or even one under), average knitters middle size and tight knitters largest size

Socks are stretchy and so the size is not essential- however they do need to have a firm tension (this helps them to wear better and to fit better) so use a size less than you normally would for a 4 ply/fingering.

One reason I don't worry with swatches is that to be accurate they should be done in the round and I figure that by time I knit enough to have a swatch I could be well on the way to having a sock knitted if the tension/gauge is correct and haven't lost anything if it is wrong as I would have needed to undone much the same amount of work anyway. On an individual sock this may mean I need to spend extra time on frogging but overall I have saved a lot of time as the majority of my socks work on my first needle chose.

But if you want more information on swatching for socks (applies to anything knitted in the round) go to 5mmdpns workshop 'just in time for Xmas'(dpns socks). On her first page she gives a bit more information, and also in barbyjones' post further down

Workshop link

If you need to buy needles you will need to guesstimate the needle size anyway. (Anyone who is looking at this without yet being able to do magic loop could use the yarn and needles to learn on and knit a swatch at the same time.)

For those who have already done 5mmdpns workshop you will find that my approach is totally different. Each have validity and indeed if you do both you will be able to work out your own style. 5mmdpns style does not work for me and I suspect mine won't work for her but each knitter needs to work out what works for them- there are very few definite rights and wrong ways in knitting- it is the final product that matters. However we can all learn from each other.

The needle is the most important tool. I am including this information again (from first workshop) because it is important though most of you should have some knowledge of this by now.

I find the best sizes are 80 or 100cm (30 or 40 inch). You can use longer needles if you have them, but it leaves you with extra cord to maneuver. However if you are thinking of later trying 2 socks on one circular at once and don’t want to keep buying new needles then I recommend a 120cm length.

The cord is vital; it must be flexible but firm. I have used very successfully Addis, KnitPro (same as Knit Picks) and HiyaHiya. Lincraft over here sell a cheaper bamboo circular, which works OK if you want to trial it first without paying for more expensive needles.

Do not use very soft cords (the old Kollage was terrible IMHO, -the cord was too flexible and the joins terrible- though they have a new one now which I believe is better though I have not yet tried it)- or inflexible cords. If you do you will think the method is terrible, when it is the tools. When I first tried magic loop I used a circular with an unsuitable cord and almost gave up. I decided to try an expensive needle and haven’t looked back.
As an aside I loved the feel of the Kollage needle tips and do want to try the new ones with the firm cords.

Using a sock yarn is advisable; most have some form of nylon in them, which helps with both durability and elasticity. Some sock yarns are specially woven with 100% wool but I still find some felting occur on heels- heat and friction after all are the two factors needed for felting and are present on heels especially (and toes to some extent). But not enough to be a problem yet.

Many sock yarns have a repeating pattern. If the yarn you have looks like it does (sometimes there is a picture on the band, or where you bought the yarn or it is clear that there are some large sections of colours) and you want to have identical rather than fraternal twins you will need to make sure you begin your first sock at the beginning of a colour change. This way you can begin the second sock at the same point. (Identical means the pattern starts and finishes in the same places so the socks are identical. Fraternal means you use the same yarn, but begin and end in different patterns so the pattern is the same but staring from a different point. This is purely personal preference

yarn amount
1 100gm (or 2 50gm)

5mmdpns' Information For Diabetics:
As I am a diabetic, and am a Diabetes Educator, I can tell you that the most important thing for the diabetic foot, is to make sure that the foot is not in any way experimenting pressure. That means the sock needs to be non-binding or tight, but be allowed to expand as the foot needs to. Once the heel is turned, the rest of the leg on the foot should be done in ribbing -- to provide support to stay up while allowing the swelling of the ankle/leg to do so comfortably. (I like a 2x2 ribbing as that gives the best stretch and support.)

Another thing is NO knots in the yarn but use another join such as knitting double for 3-4 stitches with end of the new ball of yarn overlapping the old yarn end.

The other aspect of a diabetic sock is to promote the foot to remain dry. The wool aspect of sock yarn does that. For those who are allergic to wool (such as myself) you will use a non-allergic-to-you yarn. Some suggestions are an alpaca/acrylic blend. If you are not able to use that, then you can knit with acrylic yarn (I do) and change your socks as often as your feet get damp. Zoe

Most all of the sock yarn sold in USA and Canada have a wool blend to them. You would want to check the label of the yarn to be sure. You will also want to make sure that the yarn is superwash wool yarn, as a non-superwash wool yarn will shrink. Some superwash wool does shrink a tiny bit, but not enough to be concerned about.

You can try on your sock and see how loose/tight the sock is to your foot. (My suggestion is to try on the sock after the evening meal as that is when your foot/ankles have swollen the most.) You can cast on extra stitches if the sock is fitting too tight with no wiggle room. Or, you may switch over to a slightly larger needle and continue on.
I will once again post the introduction here and download it. I will be converting it to a PDF, which Prismaticr says should enable most of you to open it. However the download is NOT essential as everything is available in this post so if you can’t open it don’t panic. A quick post to say you can’t open it would be helpful for us to know that it is an issue, but especially for this introduction it is pretty superfluous anyway. But if we know that people are having difficulties we may be able to address them for the pattern- which it will be helpful to be able to download (though not essential).
Introduction (PDF)
Attached file:
Jan 13, 2013 06:28:47   #
darowil (a regular here)
mlw2504 wrote:
Thank you for providing the toe up sock workshop. I like the idea of toe up because you can slip it on your foot to get the right measurement. This is another first for me. I have never made socks. I am looking forward to it.

I seems I remember reading that we néed 2 100 gram skeins for a pair of socks. Is this correct?

yarn amount
1 100gm (or 2 50gm)- I think I forgot that minor detail in here!
Jan 13, 2013 13:41:10   #
My socks with magic loop cuff down to practice instead of mittens and my sock yarn ready for the 21st. It is hard to see the color but it is a light blue and cranberry red. It is from Hobby Lobby called Snowflake. It is a wool blend and the color is actually called berries.
The new yarn for my toe up socks is black and white also from Hobby Lobby.

Jan 15, 2013 02:22:59   #
darowil (a regular here)
knezmom wrote:
I bought my yarn yesterday, but I just realized I don't have size 2 circs as recommended on the ball band. I have size 1 and 4. Rats!

A 1 may work especially if you are a looser knitter. Socks have a far bit of flexibility and firmer is better than looser for them, so unless you are a tight knitter I owuld be inclined to go with what you have. If you become addicted then you buy more of the various sizes. I almost always pick my needles by what is available and how the yarn feels when I pick it up! Well for socks at least and looks like I am now doing fingerless mittens and similar approach likely, though can use larger needles there as firmness is not so important for wearability or comfort.
Jan 17, 2013 14:00:32   #
WOW - Just trimmed this down to 1 page!
Just a friendly reminder. Please read from Page 1 of this workshop....

40 people said they are joining in! Kudos to you all!!!!!

As friendly reminder, these workshops are NOT KAL's. You work at your own pace.
They get trimmed of erroneous posts as often as I can get to them, and fully cleaned before closing. At the end they are LOCKED to new public posts and remain a permanent part of KP. Teachers will generally answer questions by PM after closing time....
ALWAYS make sure you read from PAGE 1. most of the time your questions have been asked and answered... OR STARTING POSTS CAN BE CORRECTED!!!!!! When an error is caught we GO BACK AND FIX THE POSTS!

Keep the 'Joining in's' coming in and/or WATCH this topic as Darowil will be posting the pattern soon....
Reminder, she is away right now until the start date...

Jan 20, 2013 22:51:15   #
darowil (a regular here)
yto111 wrote:
Just wondering. I just got set of harmony interchangeable needles. Can we do magic loop with interchangeable if cables are long enough?

The only trouble with interchangeables for socks is that for many of us they are not small enough- you need to knit socks on a snaller size than you would normally use for the yarn weight (increases durabilty and improves fit) and there is a limit as to how small they are able to make them and keep the joins smooth.
Jan 20, 2013 23:25:27   #
darowil (a regular here)
Right I am starting to download things now. Please be patient as it comes in bits and pieces. First will come a cut and paste for the word document. I will then download the same document converted to a PDF. I will also download some photos. But when I have tried to add photos to the PDF and post them I haven't been able to get the document to download. Therefore I will send them to Prismaticr to download the pattern with the photos. But in the mean time you will be able to begin while waiting for her to get them downloaded as everything is available here. As I have been away and having a family crisis I haven't been able to get them to her ahead of time.
As with the introduction the contents of the PDF are identical to what I have below.


I will speak of needles- this means the two tips- never will you be using two circulars at once-.


K knit
M1 make 1 (pick up loop between the worked stitch and the stitch to be worked, place it on the left needle and work into the back of the stitch.

w&t wrap and turn. Bring the yarn forward (to the front of the work), slip the next stitch onto the right needle purlwise, return the yarn to the back of the work (you have now ‘wrapped’ the slipped stitch in the working yarn), slip the stitch back to the left needle. Turn the work ready to begin the next row.

spwk2tog Slip next stitch to right needle, put left needle into the wrap around this stitch pick up wrap , leave this on the left needle and transfer the slipped stitch back onto the left needle. Work the stitch and the lifted wrap together (on a knit row knit together, on a purl row purl the stitches together),

spwsk3tog Slip next stitch to right needle, put left needle into both wraps around this stitch pick up wraps , leave them on the left needle and transfer the slipped stitch back onto the left needle. Work the stitch and the lifted wraps together (on a knit row knit together, on a purl row purl the stitches together),

100gm 4 ply/fingering weight yarn. (either 1 100 gm ball or 2 50gm balls.
Circular needle at least 80cm (100cm probably best length). Needle size- as I said in the introduction go by the size recommended on the yarn band., adapting for your own approximate tension- tending towards slightly tighter rather than looser.
Needle for threading through ends the two yarn ends.
Tape measure (optional as I will be telling you how to do the measuring without a tape measure, assuming you are doing the socks for yourself, someone with a similar size hand or the persons hand easily accessible when you are knitting!).


This cast on is likely to be the most difficult part of this workshop for most of you. You CANNOT use a normal cast on.
This is a figure of eight cast on.
Step 1.Make a slipknot onto one needle. This does not count as a stitch. It will be slipped off the needle later on in the cast on.. (or any type of knot that can be undone- this is just to hold the yarn on the needle for the beginning of the caston but you don’t want a knot left after wards to press into the toe).
Photo 1 shows the slip knot in blue with a long green tail. This tail is simply to get the yarn to an easily recognizable point to get the socks matching. I tie it up, though there is no real reason why it couldn’t be cut off leaving a small tail. (if you don’t mind where it begins or you have a nonrepeating pattern or a solid yarn then simply do a slip knot leaving only a short tail to weave in at the end.

Step 2.Place the two needles parallel to each other with needle one (the one with the slipknot on it on the bottom (photo 2).

Then bring the yarn up behind the second (top) needle, over the needle to the front and it between the two needles so that it is again at the back (1st stitch). Photo 3 shows this, but very loose so it can be seen.

Step 3.The yarn is then taken under the first (bottom) needle in front and then between the two needles (2nd stitch).
This forms a figure of eight round the needles.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have 12 stitches on each needle (total of 24, not counting the slipknot). Photo 4 shows the stitches firm as they should be.

Round 1- first half. pull needle one (bottom) through so its stitches are on the cable. Knit the stitches from needle two (top). Photo 5 hopefully show you what it looks like as you do it., turn the work

Round 1- second half. Move the stitches as for normal magic loop so that the worked stitches are on the cable and the unworked stitches back on their needle.

If desired a stitch marker can be used to mark the end of the row, but I never bother. The tail marks the MIDDLE of the round so the beginning of the round is the end with no tail. (and when you are working with such a fine yarn it really won’t matter if you are half a round out.)

Slide the slipknot off the needle. For these 12 stitches this one time only knit into the back of the loop.

Round 2. K1, m1 knit to last stitch on needle, m1, k1. Repeat for second needle.
After round 2 you should have 28 stitches (14 on each needle for the top and bottom of the foot.)
Round 3. Knit round on both needles.

Work rounds 2 and 3 until 64 stitches (32 on each needle).

Work round 3 until desired length (see my hint below) (if doing identical twins begin the heel as close to a colour change as you can).

For the heel you work the stitches on ONE needle ONLY and work in rows (32 stitches at the beginning- and end!).
This is a short row heel, which means that each row is stopped before the end of the previous row and then you turn the work around. Simply follow the instructions, remembering that the rows you are working are getting shorter, but that you still have the other stitches on the needle . You are simply not working them for the first half of the heel. And for the second half of the heel you gradually start working them again.

Row 1. Knit 31, w&t
Row 2. Purl30, w&t
Row 3. Knit 29, w&t
Row 4. Purl 28, w&t
Row 5. Knit 27, w&t
Row 6. Purl26, w&t
Row 7. Knit 25, w&t
Row 8. Purl24, w&t
Row 9. Knit 23, w&t
Row 10. Purl22, w&t
Row 11. Knit 21, w&t
Row 12. Purl20, w&t
Row 13. Knit 19, w&t
Row 14. Pur18, w&t
Row 15. Knit 17, w&t
Row 16. Purl16, w&t
Row 17. Knit 15, w&t
Row 18. Pur14, w&t
Row 19. Knit 13, w&t
Row 20. Purl12, w&t

This is the bottom half of the heel completed, now you begin to knit the top half which will pull the two halves together. I love watching how this comes out.

Row 21. knit 12, spwk2tog, w&t
Row 22. purl 13, spwk2tog, w&t
Row 23. Knit 14, spwsk3tog, w&t (note the change from here on picking up the wraps).
Row 24 Purl 15, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 25. Knit 16, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 26. Purl 17, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 27 Knit 18, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 28. Purl 19, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 29. Knit 20, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 30. Purl 21, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 31 Knit 22, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 32. Purl 23, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 33. Knit 24 spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 34. Purl 25, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 35. Knit 26, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 36. Purl 27, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 37. Knit 28, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 38. Purl 29, spwsk3tog , w&t
Row 39. Knit 30 slip the last stitch to the right needle pick up the two wraps return the slipped stitch to the left needle and knit all three together, turn
Row 40 purl 31, slip the last stitch to the right needle pick up the two wraps return the slipped stitch to the left needle and purl all three together, turn

Now return to working in the round.
Knit the heel stitches and then knit the stitches that have been resting on the cable.
Knit until the desired length- leaving 5-10cms/1-2 inches for the cuff. (If using my measuring knit until the leg length is approximately to the beginning of the toe).

Work in rounds of k2p2 rib. Until the desired cuff length (I usually do about the length of the toe so the two halves of the sock are the same size).

Stretchy Cast off/bind off.

Work 2 stitches, slip left needle into the two stitches on the right needle and work them together. *Work one stitch, slip left needle into the two stitches on the right needle and work them together. Work from * to end of round. Thread the yarn through the last stitch (as with the normal cast off/bind off).

I rarely use a tape measure for my socks. I use my hand. This method works for both toe up and cuff down socks. If you want to use a tape measure then about 5cm/2” shorter than the foot length is a guide.
The length of your hand from the heel to the tip of your middle finger is the foot measurement before you begin to shape your heel or toe. Measure from the beginning of the work and when it is the length of your hand then you begin to shape the heel.
And the foot and leg measurements work out well if they are the same. So for the leg work until the length is about the same as that from the heel to the beginning of the toe shaping. Then begin the cuff. Simply fold the sock across the heel shaping to measure.
(For those who do or might do cuff down you can use the same principle. Work the cuff until it is about one thumb length. Then work the leg until it is hand length (including cuff), work the heel then the foot until it is the length of the leg up to the cuff and work the toe.)

If I know the person I am knitting for has small feet I just make it slightly smaller than my hand, or bigger for a bigger foot. If working for someone with especially large or small feet then you can manage with a hand measurement of the person you are working them for.

When working the second sock if you are making identical twins then pull the yarn out until you find the same point (Make sure you pull the yarn the same way as you did for the first sock i.e. both from the middle or both from the outside). And in this case I work until I reach the same point in the pattern as with the first sock rather than measuring for beginning the heel and the cuff. After all the change in pattern will be more obvious than one or two rows difference in length once they are on someone’s feet.
slipknot (photo 1)
slipknot (photo 1)...
Needle position (photo 2)
Needle position (photo 2)...
First stitch (photo 3)
First stitch (photo 3)...
Stitches cast on (photo 4)
Stitches cast on (photo 4)...
1st round in progress (photo 5)
1st round in progress (photo 5)...
UPDATED Magic Loop Toe Up Sock
Attached file:
Jan 20, 2013 23:59:32   #
darowil (a regular here)
If anyone was so prompt as to get the pattern will the download was BEFORE the photos I have changed the numbering of the photos in the pattern (both on this post direct and in the PDF download.

And here I will post a photo of my last completed pair of socks using this pattern.

Jan 21, 2013 00:04:13   #
darowil (a regular here)
cindye6556 wrote:
Thank goodness. Will be spending tomorrow at the surgery center with DH, and would like to have pattern on tablet so it won't be a wasted day.

I suggest you get the toe started before you go out- easy knitting once you get the first few rounds done- at least until the heel- but the beginning of the toe is a bit tricky as it is different to what you have likely done before.
Jan 21, 2013 00:10:41   #
darowil (a regular here)
Patchworkcat wrote:
I knit socks using anywhere from a 2 mm to a 3 mm needle. You can't get those small sizes in an interchangable needle. Or, I should say ... I've never found any.


I currently have a sock on 1.5mm dpns (waiting for the chance to go and buy a circular in that size)- have a 2ply/laceweight yarn that I am making anklets in for wearing in sandals during summer. But they are slow work and might end up for next summer!

And no 3mm is the biggest I would use for socks, rarely more than a 2.5mm so interchangeables are no good for me either. I am gradually buiding up a supply of them in larger sizes, but rarely will I use them for magic loop- as for me thay will usually be used for larger diameter items whihc fit around the whole length of the needle.
Jan 21, 2013 00:25:57   #
darowil (a regular here)
Angora1 wrote:
darowil wrote:
If anyone was so prompt as to get the pattern will the download was BEFORE the photos I have changed the numbering of the photos in the pattern (both on this post direct and in the PDF download.

And here I will post a photo of my last completed pair of socks using this pattern.

Love that yarn. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

It's a Regia design Yarn by Kaffe Fassett- you will probably be seeing a bit more of it as I have a sock on the circulars here is the same yarn but a different colour so I can work along with others as they go.
Jan 21, 2013 00:43:08   #
darowil (a regular here)
I asked Angora to test run the pattern for me- so the problems that arose last workshop shouldn't arise. She will be posting a photo of a completed sock soon so you can all see one done by a non-sock knitter following the pattern.

And yes Angora Kaffe Fassett has some amazing patterns. I have a couple here that I want to do one day,but always have too many things I want to do!
Jan 21, 2013 00:51:38   #
Cashmeregma (a regular here)
Darowil had me test her pattern and I absolutely love the sock pattern. I have never done socks so this is my first pair and I couldn't believe I could do it from written instructions. The heel is so easy. No gusset and somehow magically when you are done knitting the panel the heel is totally formed and you start knitting in the round again with everything together. It was rather unbelievable. This actually makes socks easy. We use Magic Loop to make Magic socks. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Bravo Darowil. I know this is going to be a fabulous workshop. I'm going to do another pair with variegated sock yarn.

Here is a photo of the one sock.
You can see how easily the heel just forms and joins up to the front again. It just is done when you get to the last row of W&T and then start knitting up. I use a coiless pin as a marker to show which side the heel would be on.
You can see how easily the heel just forms and joi...
Bonus...You can try it on as you go. Mine are bigger than my foot as I am knitting for my DIL. I used one knuckle longer than my middle finger. Should be perfect. Love this way of measuring. Genius really.
Bonus...You can try it on as you go.  Mine are big...
Jan 21, 2013 01:26:30   #
darowil (a regular here)
this makes an average womans size.
it is very easy to make it slightly bigger or smaller. simply cast on the same number of sitiches. but either work 2 less rows of increases (to 60, 30 onn each needle) or 2 extra rows (to 68, 34 on each needle). For the purpose of this workshop please avoid any other adjustments as they will require different caston and heel numbers. This just makes it easier to keep track off what is going on- and less confusing for others.
Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 16 next>>
Copies of all closed workshops for use by KP Members - Designer1234
Home | Latest Digest | Back to Top | All Sections
Contact us | Privacy policy | Terms of use - Forum
Copyright 2004-2016 Knitting Paradise, Inc.