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Knitmaster Lace Carriage Problem
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Oct 3, 2014 14:50:52   #
leanne17
 
I have just bought a Knitmaster (Studio or Singer) lace carriage for the 260/360/700 machine, but I can't get it to work. It won't knit stockinette and just jams the needles all up, at the beginning of the row. So I can't see how I can run the carriage past the punchcard, to select the needles.
The instructions say to knit stockinette with the lace carriage before starting the lace pattern. I just wish I could.
The needles are all fine, and the main carriage works perfectly.
Please can anyone help me. I don't like giving up, but I've been on this for hours and getting nowhere.
Lesley
UK
 
Oct 3, 2014 15:08:23   #
dialknit
 
hi first check the sponge bar, needs to be good to knit lace. next check that the carriage is cleaned an oiled and that the pattern drums at the back are free moving. try casting on with the main carriage and knit a couple of inches or so, hang weights then try your lace carriage again.
Oct 3, 2014 16:56:35   #
Macon
 
leanne17 wrote:
I have just bought a Knitmaster (Studio or Singer) lace carriage for the 260/360/700 machine, but I can't get it to work. It won't knit stockinette and just jams the needles all up, at the beginning of the row. So I can't see how I can run the carriage past the punchcard, to select the needles.
The instructions say to knit stockinette with the lace carriage before starting the lace pattern. I just wish I could.
The needles are all fine, and the main carriage works perfectly.
Please can anyone help me. I don't like giving up, but I've been on this for hours and getting nowhere.
Lesley
UK
I have just bought a Knitmaster (Studio or Singer)... (show quote)


Many knitters start a lace knit by starting off on a few inches of waste knitting, then change main carriage for the lace carriage and then proceed.
The lace carriage cannot be used when needles are out to D position.
Oct 4, 2014 07:47:57   #
effiemae
 
Make sure the carriage is clean (spotless)and everything that should be moving, is moving, they can be troublesome.
Oct 4, 2014 08:47:08   #
susieknitter (a regular here)
 
Because a lace carriage isn't used as often as a main carriage you will find (as others have said) it will more than likely need a very good clean and oiling.
I found that the Knitmaster Lace carriage is far heavier to use than the main carriage is. When I first had one I had the same problem as you and presumed that the carriage was faulty. My husband took one look at it sitting on the machine bed; push it with some gusto/briskly and sure enough knit about 10 rows. He then looked at me standing there with my mouth gaping open and said "there's nothing wrong with it" and then went back to watch the TV. All I could think was "big head" :lol: :lol: :lol:
Oct 4, 2014 08:52:20   #
Peanut Tinker
 
susieknitter wrote:
Because a lace carriage isn't used as often as a main carriage you will find (as others have said) it will more than likely need a very good clean and oiling.
I found that the Knitmaster Lace carriage is far heavier to use than the main carriage is. When I first had one I had the same problem as you and presumed that the carriage was faulty. My husband took one look at it sitting on the machine bed; push it with some gusto/briskly and sure enough knit about 10 rows. He then looked at me standing there with my mouth gaping open and said "there's nothing wrong with it" and then went back to watch the TV. All I could think was "big head" :lol: :lol: :lol:
Because a lace carriage isn't used as often as a m... (show quote)


:P
 
Oct 4, 2014 09:21:09   #
pioneer
 
Years ago I wrote this for me to knit a scarf with the lace carriage.
The cast on I used will create holes in the end for you to attache fringe.
You can use this as a template to get stared and make any adjustment for your own project. Please refer to the diagram for carriage item #5 are the side levers. Hope this helps
lace Scarf
Attached file:
(Download)
Oct 4, 2014 10:24:55   #
rhpoway
 
I wish the diagrams for the carriage and the ribber carriage had some color coding. It would save time while scrolling down looking for changes. I do the same thing as Pioneer: print out the diagram and write the pattern, but I add color coding.

I like to knit at the machine, not figure out instructions. This gives me time to pick-up my dropped stitches!
Oct 4, 2014 10:33:32   #
etrnlife
 
There is a service manual online. You can download it and look in the trouble shooting section. I found part of my troubles were that my LC560 needed to be adjusted for my bed. And I needed to take off the ribber until I was more comfortable with the carriage. In fact, taking off the ribber and having the MB flat enabled me to make a longer practice swatch than I was able to with the ribber. That's what enabled us to "see" what the needles were doing when they came through the connecting arm and realized it needed adjusted.

While, I can do the stockinet cast on as the manual shows, I found it easier to hang a rag hem, then manually knit a row of RC before simply knitting a few rows of stockinet with the lace carriage before starting lace.
Oct 4, 2014 11:58:08   #
Tallie9
 
The only thing I can add to the good advice that's already been given is........Re-seat the 'Arm'....Loosen the thumb screws... take the 'Arm' off....The cover on the lace carriage should pop up.... To re-seat.....hold the cover down....while sliding the 'Arm' in place....making sure that it is over the 2 metal tabs that holds the cover down.. while tightening the thumb screws...

Note:If the carriage top doesn't pop up readily......and/or...the 'drums' do not spin freely.....you will need to deep clean the carriage.....Here is a 4 part video from the answerlady... that will take you through the process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdBpHL5Ah5o
Oct 4, 2014 12:03:14   #
randiejg
 
All good advice about having a good sponge bar, keeping the machine flat, a good cleaning, and proper adjustment, especially with a used lace carriage. Once you've done all of that, try running it over the needles with no yarn for a while to get the moving parts loosened up, and noting the way the needles move through the carriage to look for any further adjustments that might be needed.

Usually when someone is selling off accessories, they've been sitting for quite a long time, unused. The old oil or grease can harden and make parts immovable.
 
Oct 4, 2014 12:55:38   #
jbbh12
 
Almost Definitely sponge bar problem
Oct 4, 2014 17:23:07   #
etrnlife
 
Tallie9 wrote:

Note:If the carriage top doesn't pop up readily......and/or...the 'drums' do not spin freely.....you will need to deep clean the carriage.....Here is a 4 part video from the answerlady... that will take you through the process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdBpHL5Ah5o


Just don't ever do this with the electronic carriages. My dh says most of the circuit boards should be sealed, but why take the chance.
Oct 4, 2014 19:35:45   #
juliesknitknacks
 
Leslie,

Which particular model Studio do you have? If you are looking at the lace carriage instructions in the 360 manual, no wonder you are having trouble. The drawing at the bottom of page 46 will give you open stitches which will ravel from the bottom up, assuming you are able to knit even one row. I don't have the manual for the 700, so perhaps its instructions are more clear.

It is much easier to cast on with your main carriage and knit about 1 inch before putting on the lace carriage. If you want the lace to start at the very beginning of your knitting, use a caston rag and knit 1 row with ravel cord. Then with main yarn, e-warp through the ravel cord and knit 2 rows with main carriage. Only then do you put on the lace carriage. Using the special lace pattern cards, move the lace carriage across the bed, and memorize the punch card and the position of edge pins. At this point follow the instructions for "setting the carriage" on page 45. (I am assuming you have already been successful in doing pattern knitting with the main carriage. If not, first learn how the punchcard reader works with that carriage.)

Others have given tips about a good sponge bar, and making sure the carriage and machine are clean and oiled. There is another factor that may be causing your problem. The yarn feeder slides back and forth in its slot as you knit across the bed---at least it should. For successful lace knitting, the yarn feeder should be at the trailing edge of the slot. This gives each stitch time to completely transfer to its neighbor before it picks up the new yarn which it will knit through the doubled up stitch.

Also, when the 360 was introduced (about 1981), we dealers were sent a repair manual which told us to use the newer sponge bars that have a narrow indentation at the top of the metal. In an emergency I have used bars with a flat top, but have better luck with the ones actually made to Studio's specifications. Hope this helps you.

Julie
Oct 4, 2014 19:45:17   #
juliesknitknacks
 
Leslie,

Which particular model Studio do you have? If you are looking at the lace carriage instructions in the 360 manual, no wonder you are having trouble. The drawing at the bottom of page 46 will give you open stitches which will ravel from the bottom up, assuming you are able to knit even one row. I don't have the manual for the 700, so perhaps its instructions are more clear.

It is much easier to cast on with your main carriage and knit about 1 inch before putting on the lace carriage. If you want the lace to start at the very beginning of your knitting, use a caston rag and knit 1 row with ravel cord. Then with main yarn, e-warp through the ravel cord and knit 2 rows with main carriage. Only then do you put on the lace carriage. Using the special lace pattern cards, move the lace carriage across the bed, and memorize the punch card and the position of edge pins. At this point follow the instructions for "setting the carriage" on page 45. (I am assuming you have already been successful in doing pattern knitting with the main carriage. If not, first learn how the punchcard reader works with that carriage.)

Others have given tips about a good sponge bar, and making sure the carriage and machine are clean and oiled. There is another factor that may be causing your problem. The yarn feeder slides back and forth in its slot as you knit across the bed---at least it should. For successful lace knitting, the yarn feeder should be at the trailing edge of the slot. This gives each stitch time to completely transfer to its neighbor before it picks up the new yarn which it will knit through the doubled up stitch.

Also, when the 360 was introduced (about 1981), we dealers were sent a repair manual which told us to use the newer sponge bars that have a narrow indentation at the top of the metal. In an emergency I have used bars with a flat top, but have better luck with the ones actually made to Studio's specifications. Hope this helps you.

Julie
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