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Pattern Requests
Afghan Knitting Pattern using Scrap Yarn??
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Sep 21, 2011 23:46:23   #
knittingmeme
 
Does anyone know of an afghan knitting pattern using scrap yarn? I've seen some really pretty afghan crochet patterns using scrap yarn but none for knitting. I don't know how to crochet so I need one that I could knit. I especially like the ones that are done in "granny squares" (I think that's what they are called.) Any similar patterns for knitting an afghan with scrap yarn?
 
Sep 22, 2011 00:19:30   #
joeysomma (a regular here)
 
http://www.canadianliving.com/crafts/knitting/knitted_patchwork_quilt.php

http://files.meetup.com/176700/Patchworkknitting.pdf

I found these by googling "knit patchwork squares"

I'm sure you can find more
Sep 22, 2011 01:24:10   #
Jessica-Jean (a regular here)
 
http://www.knittingatknoon.com/afghanpatt.html

http://atelier918.typepad.com/portableknitting/2006/04/mitered_square_.html

http://www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2011/09/14/cuddle-up-with-some-stash-busting-patterns.aspx

http://knitting.about.com/od/knittingpatterns/tp/stash-reducing.htm

http://www.siskiyouknits.com/grannielinda/colorarticles/miteredsquare.htm


http://en.allexperts.com/q/Knitting-2228/Miter-squares.htm

Magic Miters (shawl, afghan, knitter's choice)
Let's see how well I can transfer the knitting my fingers do to words. Can't find the book the pattern's in.

So, the main colour is the unifying colour with which every square begins, which forms thin stripes across the squares and of which you need lots. Sorry, I haven't measured how many yards per square. So far, with the rather thin yarn I'm currently using, I get 12 squares per 40gm ball. Of the contrasting colours I need between 12 and 13 yards per square, depending on the thickness of the yarn. Did I mention that in this lovely pattern the yarns do NOT all need to be exactly the same weight? Another reason I'll be making more such afghans!

I'm using US#8 needles but the pattern calls for #9. I like a firmer fabric than the 9's gave me. The pattern calls ffor worsted weight yarn but, as I said, the exact thickness of the yarns is not critical.

First square: Cast on an even number of stitches. The pattern calls for 40 but it can be varied to make bigger or smaller squares.

Let's say it's 40 stitches cast on.

Row 1: Knit across - purling the last stitch to begin the chain selvedge.

Row 2: Knit across - slipping the first stitch as to knit and purling the last stitch.

(from now on, always slip the first stitch knitwise and purl the last stitch - every row)

Row 3: Sl 1 k-wise, k 17, k2tog, place marker, ssk, k 17, p 1.

Row 4: Sl 1 k-wise, k 34, p 1. [At this point I use the contrast colour for the last stitch - your choice to add it on the last stitch of this row or the first stitch of the next. It really makes no visible difference in the long run.

[b]Row 5:[/b] (first row of contrast colour) Sl 1 k-wise, k 16, k2tog, ssk, k 16, p 1.

Row 6: Sl 1 k-wise, p 33.

Row 7: Sl 1 k-wise, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, ssk, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p 1.

Row 8: Sl 1 k-wise, purl across.

Change to main colour.

Row 9: Sl 1 k-wise, k 14, k2tog, ssk, k 13, p 1.

Row 10: Sl 1 k-wise, k 30, p 1. (These two rows form a single line of "purl bumps" on the right side and nicely delineate the bands of eyelets.)

Change to contrast colour and continue.

Can you see how this progresses? The first band of the contrast colour has 5 eyelets on each side of the center marker. Each subsequent band has one less and the final tiny band of cc has none. With a 40 stitch cast on, there are 6 bands of cc. When you get down to just 4 stitches of cc and are to change colour to the main colour: k2tog, remove marker, ssk, pass first stitch over second, cut yarn and pull through. Cut cc also. One square done.

At this point you must decide if you're going to do an afghan with zig-zags at beginning and end and which requires half-squares to fill in the zig-zags on the sides or an afghan with has no zig-zags and worked diagonally from one corner to the other.

If, as in the book, with zig-zags, then make more single squares. The pattern asks for 6 but the choice is up to the knitter. How big do you want it? Make an approiate number of single squares. Guaranteed: no sewing up to join them!

If your choice is to work without zig-zag's, then add another square to the first thusly: Cast on 20 stitches, place marker, pick up 20 stitches from the right-hand side of the first square - right side facing you. Continue from Row 2 above. For third square you first pick up 20 stitches from the left-hand side of the first square and then cast on the other 20 stitches and continue again from Row 2. If this isn't clear enough, drive on over and we'll do some small ones together.

Now, back to the several single squares if you want to have a zig-zag start and end. Pick up 20 stitches along the left side of one square, place a marker, pick up 20 stitches along the right side of another square and work from Row 2 above. VoilĂ ! Two squares joined by the third. Continue in the same manner until all single squares are joined. Now, to make a straight sided afghan without casting on another stitch you need to make two half-squares - one on either side.

To do the half-square on the right-hand side of the afghan: Pick up 20 stitches along the right-hand side of the right-most square.

Row 2: (the picked up row being Row 1) Sl 1 k-wise, k 18, p 1.

Row 3: Sl 1 k-wise, k1, slip first stitch over second, k17, p 1.

Row 4: Sl 1 k-wise, k 17, p 1.

Row 5: (first row with contrast colour) Sl 1 k-wise, k1, slip first stitch over second stitch, k16, p 1.

Row 6: Sl 1 k-wise, p 17.

Row 7: Sl 1 k-wise, k1, slip first stitch over second stitch, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p 1.

Row 8: Sl 1 k-wise, p 16.

And so on.

I find the left-hand half-squares simpler since the decrease is just the k2tog before that one would have done before the marker in the full squares.

Does this all make any sense to you? If so, well and good. If not, get back to me and I'll try to walk you through it.
Sep 22, 2011 11:27:20   #
knittingmeme
 
Thanks to both Joeysomma and Jessica-Jean for the patterns and links. In my searchings on the internet, I did not find these. I will have to study them and decide which to do but don't have time now since I keep my 2 years - 8 months old little grandson who gets into everything! It will have to wait until tonight!
Apr 1, 2012 15:24:44   #
sylbo60
 
i am new to this type of knitting and very confused with this pattern. I've gotten to the end of row 10 and don't know to continue if I start over on row 1 to continue making the other subsequent bands. I have the first 5 eyelets and if I do the same rows over don't see how get down to 4 stitches of cc. what am I missing? thanks
Apr 2, 2012 17:31:49   #
Jessica-Jean (a regular here)
 
sylbo60 wrote:
i am new to this type of knitting and very confused with this pattern. I've gotten to the end of row 10 and don't know to continue if I start over on row 1 to continue making the other subsequent bands. I have the first 5 eyelets and if I do the same rows over don't see how get down to 4 stitches of cc. what am I missing? thanks
Assuming you're talking about the pattern I sketched out above, maybe you're missing the central double-decrease on every-other row?
"k2tog, ssk" is what makes it decrease from however many stitches were cast on to a single stitch at the end of the mitered square.
 
          
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