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Feb 24, 2016 16:49:00   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
#1= 2016- Cotton Dishcloth sweater workshop - teacher Designer1234
FROM THE BEGINNING. PLEASE don't go to the last page and ask questions until you make sure where
we are and what we have done.



THERE IS NO WRITTEN PATTERN FOR THIS SWEATER. please read the information below.


I was making some dishcloths a few years ago (I am not sure exactly how long ago),
and I started to
wonder whether it would make a 'usable' short sleeved sweater. I had some of the
large balls of cotton
which I had bought from walmart and found a couple that would go well together.

I knit the sweater and am still wearing it in the spring and summer.

RESULTS : It has never lost its color - It has never lost its Shape, and it is heavy
However, even though it is heavy it is very comfortable. I posted a picture on KP a year or so later
and every time I have used it in my avatar I have had requests to teach it.
I LIKE the weight, which
was a surprise and still is. It isn't a sweater that feels hot. You just know you have it on.

I you are not using worsted weight cotton, you will have to be careful when you do the T pattern as in some patterns they are quite stretchy. So consider that and make sure you do a swatch of the stitch pattern you will use. The acrylic sweater I knit was not very pleasing as the seed stitch stretched quite a bit.


When you do your measurements, you can calculate the stitches per inch
on the pattern and see where there is a difference between the stitches per inch in your measurements in comparison to the pattern.

You will be doing a swatch and will be deciding on your own stitch numbers

By the way this is a very simple knit - it is a drop sleeve short
or 3/4 length sleeve (your choice) and it is knit quite loose
. You
can choose the neckline and the colour combination. You might also decide to
do a different pattern for the sweater. I did one with a cable up the centre

The yellow
one is my favourite but as it is going to be YOUR SWEATER you can work in
any pattern or texture you wish .

This sweater has two main stitches - I did the body in stocking stitch and the
centre T is variegated seed stitch.

I would also mention that if you know my sideways knit Stash Buster sweaters
or 'Coat of many colours' you would use the drop sleeve pattern and use the
side knitted bottom area from the yoke down. Turning it and picking
up the row stitches to make the rows vertical instead of horizontal (the way
you knit it).
You can also refer to the Coat of Many Colors workshop in the closed workshop
list on the main page of this section to give you an idea of what I am talking about.


Feb 24, 2016 16:58:59   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
Here is some yarn information!

You will note that I have used the large balls (skeins)of cotton and I purchased them in Walmarts. HOWEVER, I have been informed that the large balls (skeins) are also available in Michaels and am sure there are other places.

one of my hesitations about teaching this class was because I don't remember the exact yardage used for the sweater. I would suggest, if you are concerned -search for a pattern in your size that gives yardage and that will give you an idea


Marilynknits kindly told us :
I have a Lily Sugar 'n' Cream 400 grams/14 ounces & 655 m/710 yards. It is a solid color in their Confectionary Colors line.

I also have a large variegated which is 340 g/12 oz. & 556 m/608 yards.

Each is a 4 weight worsted and H crochet hook/size 8 US knitting needle are recommended. I tend to knit loosely and usually use the next smaller size than that recommended for a yarn to achieve gauge.

Lily expects a gauge of 20 stitches and 26 rows on a 4" x 4"/10 cm x 10 cm swatch.
NOTE"There are one or two brands in Walmart of cotton designed for dischcloths etc. They appear to be quite good for this sweater - there is alway one or two brands at Michaels , here in Canada - I am not sure whether you have Michaels in other countries. Patons dishcloth cotton is there and there are a variety of colors.

I just received a question which asked if she could use acrylic yarn as she was not able to buy cotton yarn where she is.

Answer: Certainly you can. I would use acrylic or acrylic blend worsted weight as the next best thing to cotton for this sweater.
Please don't use wool blends for this class as it is your first shot at making your own sweater and after all that work I don't want it to shrink for you!!
The amount needed will depend on your size.

I would do a search for a sweater in your size on line and see what the yardage required is. I would buy extra yarn if you plan on putting sleeves in. However if you have information from a pattern for a fairly loose sweater and worsted weight yarn, it will give you an idea of the amount of yarn you will require.. Keep the pattern handy so that you can calculated their stitches per inch in comparison to yours so it will help keep you on track. I will explain each process.[/color]

--SLEEVES-- if you plan on making a long sleeved or 3/4 sleeve sweater, make sure you take that into consideration when you are buying yarn.

IMPORTANT This will require that each of you figure out the size you need -(number of stitches per inch) calculated in your swatch - times the number of inches you need FROM YOUR MEASUREMENT.

You will have to add ease to this measurement - Ease varies for different sizes and different shapes. We will discuss positive ease which is the amount of 'give' you need for your garment so that it is not skin tight[/color]

I will be happy to check your figures if you wish.It took me awhile to know I was able to do so correctly.
Feb 24, 2016 17:00:03   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
]YOU WILL LEARN HOW TO CALCULATE your stitches per inch with the needles you will be using and the yarn you will be using . YOU WILL MAKE A SWATCH . Remember this will only be the calculation for one set of needles and one skein of yarn (although it will be close using other yarns of the same weight[[/u]

POSITIVE EASE: [[u]] EASE IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU ARE DECIDING HOW MANY INCHES YOU WILL NEED FOR A PROJECT. I write down my exact measurements and then in brackets added the amount of ease I thought I needed in each area of my body. - It is a good idea, as ease will depend upon your shape. I always have more ease at the top of my sweater as I am a size smaller at the top than through my stomach and hips ) So I always have to decide AHEAD of time what type of sweater will look best and how I reach that goal. Over the years I have found I never like one that is not adjusted for my shape. However, I can make one that fits my hips and, using different techniques, make my sweater look like it fits at the top better than it actually does.


INFORMATION - As I have learned over the years what works for my body, I am going to explain my thought process below, so that you can see why I do what I do - and how I solve body shape problems in my own sweaters.

The best type of sweater for ME is the drop sleeve, straight up and down sweater, with very little fit around the waist.

I also figured out a way to make it look like I have a more normal shape, and that is by knitting the bottom section sideways. I can adjust the bottom of the sweater much more easily, doing the knitting sideways so that each edge is the top and bottom. I use short rows to add a bit to the width at the bottom and slowly reduce the width up to the yoke. The wider edge is the bottom of the sweater, the narrower edge is the yoke. When I first started I didn't use many short rows and so I used patterns that were vertical, and the drop sleeve was a great help as it gave me width at the top of the sweater.

. This sweater gives even more of that appearance as the T draws your eye to the top of the sweater rather than the bottom. Also, with worsted, and sport weight (rarely fine yarn) the different textures of the stripes gives it a lot of ease - just like the ribbing in socks and mittens-- So there is a bit of stretch for the bottom half and I can use less ease in the bottom half.

-I only use narrow stripes for my sweaters going either horizontally or vertically. I find that narrow vertical stripes work much better for me than horizontal stripes UNLESS, I AM USING no stripes but plain color at the bottom and wide horizontal stripes at the top to make my top look wider. (I rarely do this as I like my other sweaters better). HOWEVER, one day I decided to knit a sideways, narrow striped, lots of texture group of colors for the bottom of a new sweater. It was my COAT OF MANY COLORS that was successful and it was like a light went on

YOu have to THINK ABOUT YOUR BODY SHAPE and ask yourself, How can I help hide the differences so that my body looks more the way I want it to.
It took a lot of hits or misses for me but I always knew I had to add pattern at the top with little or no activity at the bottom when I knit an ordinary sweater, OR use vertical narrow textured stripes which took the eye up my body to the yoke area .

So-- take a good look at hourself in the mirror without too many clothes on. Mark down your shape - I am a pear shape, others are straight up and down, others are heavy with no waist, others are heavy with a definite waist, write that down in your NOTEBOOK. If you are 'fluffy' you will have to take that into consideration, if you are tall and slender (I wish), you will have a wider variety of choices as to what you can wear. If you are top heavy (busty) that has to be considered, If you are very slight - you adjust. If you have a small waist but bigger hips and top you have to adjust for that too. (if any of you are that shape, ask me for some ways to help your design.)

Another thing I do is change the neckline colour and put a collar on the sweater a different colour in order to draw the eye to my top. I TRY TO VARY THE TOPS OF MY SWEATERS EVEN THOUGH I only use two general patterns. The DROP SLEEVE ( both cardigan and pullover }and the TOP DOWN
. although I will talk about it at the end of the class when we are finished with the drop sleeve[/color].

[color=brown] We want to get you started. The thing is, the results are worth the learning curve in my opinion.
------------ I have always felt at home with colour - if you don't you will have to take that into consideration.

I would strongly suggest that you check out



I believe that EVERYONE who knits would get ideas from both of these workshops
. It is so useful to use both in your knitting. These two workshops will help everyone learn about color - including quilters and others who work with color and texture.
Feb 24, 2016 17:10:09   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

Please take the time to copy the measurement chart I have posted here. I realize that some of the measurements will not be used for your shape, but if you knit for other people it might be necessary to fill in the Number shown, depending on their shape..

Write down the exact measurements and when it is time to calculate the stitches you can add the ease. You will change the ease needed on each different sweater- so once you have your measurements. you will open a new page for each project and decide for each what amount of ease you want. (this will take awhile as you are starting out with a loose, straightforward sweater.

For this sweater Don't worry too much about adjusting for the bust. However the information will be really handy if you are busty. You can then search for instructions as to how to make a bustline that is yours and which will work in a sweater for you. This is more important with a fairly tight fitting sweater. Not this one. I would search on line Knitting - how do I adjust for a larger bust?? and you will find information there. this would be necessary if you want a more fitted sweater

This sweater will be knit by casting on the largest number of inches in your measurements plus ease.

You will divide the total stitches including ease in half - half for the front and half for the back. If you have larger hips you will use your hip measurement plus ease. If you have a larger bust you will use your bust measurement. It is a straight hanging sweater. You can add the ribbing at the bottom when you knit the front and back, or, as I usually do, add the border at the end. (mainly because I like to leave it to the end and sometimes crochet the bottom band or add an accent of color[/u].

The colour will be chosen by you We don't calculate for the waist - at least not for this project. We can decide on that when we are knitting it. This pattern is knit straight like a rectangle. So think in terms of a rectangle no matter what shape you are. You must, therefore use your largest measurement.


Here is an excellent link giving sizes for all parts of the body. I think you might find it interesting an you can adjust the measurements to your body sizes. I think it will helpful.

(this is corrected- excellent information and picture)

If you haven't been with me through the information thread- please copy the following chart and use it for your measurements.


1. NECK - at least one inch ease .


2. HEAD - AT least one inch ease.


3. BUST SIZE - This is important if you are busty

Take measurement in that case,

a. Around the body. 2 " ease - If it is very fitted you can change this. Measure around the largest part.=________________

b. From the mid shoulder over the bust down to the waist (giving 2" ease Measure around the largest part.=________________

This only needs to be taken if you are large busted. Otherwise #1 is all you need.

4. UNDERARM TO mid WAIST - NO EASE - EXACT. =_______________

WAIST TO BOTTOM EDGE (ABOVE A 3 OR 4" BORDER) =_______________

Total both together =_______________

Usually the total will be needed. However fill the information is so that you will have it. Also for someone else you are measuring.



IF YOU ARE MAKING A FITTED SWEATER you won't need more than 1.5 - 2" ease. If it is a fairly loose sweater you will put in more ease. -

6. Stomach measurement - Not needed by everyone -- However if your stomach is the same or nearly as large as your hips, you might find this measurement handy to have. =__________________________

you will decide on the ease depending on the hip size, waist size and how you want your sweater to fit. Once you have made a sweater you can use it as a guide. That is what we will be talking about in the class.

HIP = ______________


8. under arm to top of cuff -- exact.= Cuff - 3 - 4 inches = Total=

MAKE SURE YOU KNIT THE ARM LONG ENOUGH========================================================================================

The above measurements are for a drop sleeve "Bottom up sweater". (Adjustments will be made as you knit UP THE SWEATER)
Feb 24, 2016 17:20:46   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
It will save a lot of work down the road if you find your measurements now and have them in your notebook
this is how our sweater is knit it is joined at the neck first, then down the sides
this is how our sweater is knit it is joined at th...
basic drop sleeve= my drawing for the bottom knit sideways.
basic drop sleeve= my drawing for the bottom knit ...
purple is sideways, tuquoise knit regularly (horizontal, after attached to ends of the bottom pieces
purple is sideways, tuquoise knit regularly (horiz...
Feb 24, 2016 17:54:41   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)

Some of you have your swatches and measurements done.

you will need size 5mm (US8) and 4.5 mm (US 7) NEEDLES .

I always use circulars but I use them for everything.

]So knit your swatches, using the yarn you have bought. make a swatch for both needles. MARK DOWN IN YOUR NOTEBOOK the number of inches besides the measurement chart. Then do your swatch and calculate the stitches per in for both 5mm (US8) and( 4.5 mm US7) I rarely do a swatch for my edges but as 4.5 is a common needle size, make the two swatches and you will have that needles size already in your notebook which will be helpful if you need them for a different sweater.

Open a page in your notebook for the sweater. Put in Feb.25/2016 / class

Write down your brand - and all the info on the band of the skeins. including yardage, and weight, suggested needle and crochet size .

Then write down the needle size you are using and calculate the stitches per in, in a swatch, (5 - 6" swatch). You might find it differes from the ball information.


Remember , any new sweater or project using the same type of yarn and the same needles already calculated if you use your note book properly. You will refer to your stitch results and the information will be there permanently.

If you change to a different weight of yarn, do a swatch and enter the same information

I have ziploc bag I put my swatches, with the information band attached where I have added my own stitches per inch written on it} you will then have two swatches and they will be different because you are using a different yarn and probably different sized needles. .
Feb 24, 2016 18:18:43   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
It is essential if you are going to knit without a pattern to have at least one NOTEBOOK. All the information about your sweater will be entered there - each project will have a complete history of YARN TYPE, YARDAGE, GAUGE SHOWN ON BALL BAND. DATE YOU START PROJECT . and YOUR GAUGE.

Then you will write down your cast on stitch number, your inches you knit , if you put a pattern or a rib in the sweater, anything you have done to make it one of a kind.

In otherwords your stitches per inch multiplied by two (easier to calculate large numbers in case your gauge is -eg. 4 and 1/2 stitches per in - you times two that and you have 9 stitches for every 2 of your inches on your figure

I have a place at the back of my workbook (I am on the 4th book by the way) and I have the results of all my swatches with the yarn name and ball info and my own stitches per inch calculation and what size needles I used.
That way I don't have to do the same yarn twice using one size needles.. I will have it even a year from now. I know it is a hassle but so is knitting a sweater that you don't like because it doesn't fit.because of size differences between the pattern and your shape .

If you have someone you like to knit for , you can take her measurements , do a swatch and enter it into the back of your notebook and you always will have her information Write your measurement , as well as anyone elses measurements in the front of your NOTE BOOK. I have my d's measurements and I can surprise her with a sweater whenever I get the urge.

Children grow, but remember as they get taller they usually don't get thicker so you can do a gauge watch and pretty well know whether you just have to add height [/color][/u]


TAKE the size 8mm (US 8) needles and cast on enough stitches to more than cover 5 inches.

knit the swatch with the pattern you are going to use.

If you are going to use two different stitch patterns or two different yarns, do a swatch of each - (I know- it is a hassle, but do it anyway. It is the basis for your own beautifully fitted sweater!)

Knit it the way you do - don't knit tighter or loser- knit as close to your normal knitting as possible. In the back of your notebook you will enter the results. You will keep- the swatch (I add a note of the yarn name, the yarn gauge (to see the difference) and your stitches per inch - I go by 2 inches as mentioned above. Ask me if there are any questions.

Once you have your swatch knitted (make sure it is at least 5 inches square. then with a hard ruler or the following stitch guide or other stitch calculators-

lay the ruler on your knitting near the center of the swatch (NEVER on the edges) make sure your ruler includes a whole stitch to start. then being careful not to move the ruler , count the number of stitchs for TWO inches
You might wonder why I say two inches? often times the stitch count for one inch is 4 an 1/2 stitches in an inch - which works out easier to use two inches which would give you 9 stitches for every 2 inch.

See my stitch counter below - it is really handy and I would suggest you find one like it or you check with your yarn supplier as to a gauge counter

It is also perfectly okay to just measure one inch and use it as the base, but remember always that l/2 of a stitch adds up when you are knitting a sweater so you MUST use it in your calculations
Feb 24, 2016 18:21:03   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
you will see that there are 7 stitches for 2 inch
you will see that  there are 7 stitches for 2 inch...
make sure you carefully count the stitches correctly. I find if I take a knitting needle andput the point in the center of each stitch as I count , I won't get the place I am counting wrong.
make sure you carefully count the stitches correct...
Feb 24, 2016 18:34:30   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
I rarely worry about the row count, but it is a good idea to get into the habit of entering that number in your Note Book as well.

MAKE SURE YOU CALCULATE FOR A BIT OF EASE to your original measurements BEFORE YOU CAST ON and mention it in your notebook. THIS WILL BE ADDED TO YOUR STITCH COUNT FOR THIS SWEATER How much depends on your body shape. This type of sweater doesn't need much. I just a little ease at the bottom row, nowhere else for my body. YOU might have to adjust the amount of ease and that is something you will figure out along this journey.
Feb 24, 2016 19:03:26   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
See my stitch counter above - it is really handy and I would suggest you find one like it or you check with your yarn supplier as to a gauge counter.

I am in Canada and I was in Michaels last week and they have one of these stitch counters so it is worth the small price to have one on hand. Also it is important to have a GOOD needle sizer which you should use all the time - sometimes they vary a bit so I use the same every time!
This is how you would do the workshop sweater by knitting the bottom sideways. It would be much easier in my opinion
This is how you would do the workshop sweater by k...
how I add to the bottom width to a top width that fits my smaller frame
how I add to the bottom width to a top width that ...
Feb 24, 2016 19:26:02   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
Suggestion [[u]]First, for those who are doing the T shaped short sleeves sweater - you will require two skeins or balls of color B. see picture.

I also have a suggestion, You might decide to knit the bottom sideways which is an easy way to make the bottom of a pullover, and if you want stripes you knit them and they will end up vertical when the side becomes the top.

This works very well for the T pattern.
I do that all the time. Or you will have to divide the main color into two balls so you can knit them from the bottom up with the T in the middle[/color].

IMPORTANT [color=brown] Make sure, especially if you are knitting sideways that you keep track that you don't increase or decrease your stitch number- if you do the bottom or top of your sweater won't be even when you want to put on the yoke I check my stitch number every 3 or 4 rows, especially if I use any yarn overs in my sweater as it is easy to gain a stitch without knowing it.ask me how I know?[/u]]

If you do decide to go sideways,you will use the measurement from under the arm to the place where your border starts at the bottom of your sweater, and calculate how many stitches you require for that length

When you have the bottom finished you will 'stand it on end, and use one end for the top and one end for the bottom. You will pick up stitches for the yoke and carry on knitting. You can therefore easily knit the center column without having to split your yarn. That is one time you would need your rows per inch from your swatch. ( However it is just as easy to use a measuring tape - as ease will be included and you don't have to have it absolutely perfect). So measure your self around, divide it in half and then measure your knitting. If you put in a lot of ribbing, don't stretch it to fit, as it will give you lots of ease but will go back to the smaller size) hope this is clear- if not ask me

I LOVE the effect of the tops and bottoms being knitted in different directions. People like to remark on them as they are so different. I will post a few of the pullovers I have done this way
One of my favorites. Have worn it all winter here.
One of my favorites. Have worn it all winter here....
you can see how it goes together
you can see how it goes together...

more subdued, finished this winter
more subdued, finished this winter...
Feb 25, 2016 00:06:29   #
Designer1234 (a regular here)
This post has been updated.


hips are 48" my stitch count is 3.5 stitches per inch

add 2" ease == 50 inches (25" on front and 25"on back}

25 X 3.5 = 87.5 cast on -- I will round it out to 88 stitches . for front as well as back.

double check -- 50x3.5= 175 total divided by front and back -=87.5 so I am correct.

Now I have to divide the 88 front stitches so that there is a fairly wide band up the center. so each side of the center will have 44 stitches.

32 +2p + 20 +2p +32 = 88 stitches.

This will give me 2 purl stitches on each side center section so we will have 34 stitches of the main color on each side (32 stocking stitch and 2 purl stitches before we change color - Same on both sides. total 88
Feb 25, 2016 12:36:38   #
I have my measurements and gauge swatch, so am ready to start, but have a question about the bottom:
the sweaters that I have made from the bottom up have started with a band of ribbing or some other edge pattern. If I'm going to do the vertical front (not sideways version) should I first do a band of ribbing, or will that be added later by picking up stitches? I know it would have to be added later if knitting sideways and turning, but not sure about what to do if I knit from bottom up.
Thank you so much! Love this sweater.

GOOD QUESTION. I usually don't because in a lot of my sweaters I am not sure what kind of border I will want.
However as you are decided and are following picture then I think starting with the ribbing would be fine.
Personally, I would use the A color for my bands (not the T color). However that is entirely up to you.
You have to do the border then add the center color when you change to the body pattern No problem at all.
Feb 25, 2016 12:51:01   #
Sorry, another question -- when joining colors, is a knot necessary to secure this yarn? From reading previous KP posts about joining, I know that is a forbidden thing! But, having never worked with 100% cotton before, this yarn feels like it would be difficult to secure a join using no knot.
Would appreciate advice, many, many thanks!

That is one of the reasons I suggested the possible use of the sideways knit bottom. You would have all your joins at the end and then weave them in.

I definitely wouldn't
knot the join. I am not sure how that join would work with cotton, so I think you should knit the two colors together and leave ends to weave in

IMPORTANT TIP I would suggest that when it comes time to weave, you should split each end into two sections then when you weave in the ends weave them in separately so that if one part of that thread pulls out the other is still attached. You do this with both of the ends you want to weave in. It isn't as noticeable and much safer than just weaving the whole threads in. I have found this very useful, and it bunches up so much less. Give it a try, ladies!
Feb 25, 2016 13:00:50   #
My 2 questions are...what cast on to use? And should the first stitch be a slip stitch?

I knit the first stitch of every row. There are lots of different ways by different members.

I have heard recently that the slip stitch works even better
I haven't tried it yet
. So use whichever one you wish

I think most of us have a favorite cast on. I use the cable cast on most often and use a larger cast on needle
{one or two sizes larger) There are so many cast ons , and as I rarely use patterns I don't worry. If it seems too tight I use an even larger needle. I do like the cable cast on as it is smooth
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Copies of all closed workshops for use by KP Members - Designer1234
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