Adaption of pattern - neckline and arm holes

Apr 17, 2012 16:53:51 #

If I adapt a pattern to match tension etc, how would I then adjust the neckline and arm sections. I can do the calculations for the stitches and rows required but when I get to these areas I get stuck in knowing how many stitches to decrease when I don't have the same number of stitches as the original pattern Can any one help me with this or guide me to a website please.

Regards

Karen

Regards

Karen

Apr 17, 2012 19:14:29 #

susieknitter
(a regular here)

If you type into your search box "Knitware Sweater Design" there is a free pattern design program. You choose the design of the garment, the size required and then put in your swatch measurement. It will work it all out for you and you can then print it off and use it like a normal pattern.

Apr 18, 2012 01:24:38 #

Apr 18, 2012 15:52:04 #

JoyceinNC
(a regular here)

susieknitter wrote:

If you type into your search box "Knitware Sweater Design" there is a free pattern design program. You choose the design of the garment, the size required and then put in your swatch measurement. It will work it all out for you and you can then print it off and use it like a normal pattern.

Many thanks Susie! This is where I get stuck modifying patterns too.

Apr 18, 2012 16:02:10 #

Have spent the last hour trying to download the demo! Now given to OH to try. Is it usually this difficult. We're trying on w7 home edition.

Apr 18, 2012 17:28:32 #

susieknitter
(a regular here)

To install the demo in w7 you probably will have to use XP compatibility mode. w7 doesn't like old software.

Apr 18, 2012 18:41:57 #

If I adapt a pattern to match tension etc, how would I then adjust the neckline and arm sections. I can do the calculations for the stitches and rows required but when I get to these areas I get stuck in knowing how many stitches to decrease when I don't have the same number of stitches as the original pattern Can any one help me with this or guide me to a website please.

Regards

Karen

Karen,

A really easy way to do this would be to make a tension swatch 4X4 then measure how many stitches per inch and how many rows per inch.

For example, I am currently making a skirt and I know that there are 32 stitches across my 4X4 swatch, which means that there are 8 stitches per inch.

After you have calculated the amount of stitches per inch, it is easy to figure out everything else. So in your case, the next step would be to decrease the amount of stitches that you need to according to how many stitches there are per inch of your garment.

In my case, I know that the waist of my client is 27 inches around. So, since there are 8 stitches per inch I will cast on 216 stitches on my machine. Since the hips are generally larger than the waist, and in my case the hips are 34 inches, I will need to cast on 56 stitches before I get to the hips. (Since 34 inches X 8 stitches/inch=272 stitches) Also, the hips are about five inches down from the waist, so, I have roughly 37 rows to complete the increases.

So in your case, you will need to measure how long the arm holes need to be, then multiply this number by the amount of stitches per inch. The key here is to figure how many rows you need to knit before you're at the point where the garment should be fully decreased. Then, you should ask yourself, how many stitches across will the garment be at the point of the decrease, and how many rows do you have to get to this point. Once you know these two key things, you'll be able to decipher where and when to decrease.

On arm holes, I recommend decreasing two stitches in from the edge, this way the garment will look more professional.

Happy knitting,

Mallory

Regards

Karen

Karen,

A really easy way to do this would be to make a tension swatch 4X4 then measure how many stitches per inch and how many rows per inch.

For example, I am currently making a skirt and I know that there are 32 stitches across my 4X4 swatch, which means that there are 8 stitches per inch.

After you have calculated the amount of stitches per inch, it is easy to figure out everything else. So in your case, the next step would be to decrease the amount of stitches that you need to according to how many stitches there are per inch of your garment.

In my case, I know that the waist of my client is 27 inches around. So, since there are 8 stitches per inch I will cast on 216 stitches on my machine. Since the hips are generally larger than the waist, and in my case the hips are 34 inches, I will need to cast on 56 stitches before I get to the hips. (Since 34 inches X 8 stitches/inch=272 stitches) Also, the hips are about five inches down from the waist, so, I have roughly 37 rows to complete the increases.

So in your case, you will need to measure how long the arm holes need to be, then multiply this number by the amount of stitches per inch. The key here is to figure how many rows you need to knit before you're at the point where the garment should be fully decreased. Then, you should ask yourself, how many stitches across will the garment be at the point of the decrease, and how many rows do you have to get to this point. Once you know these two key things, you'll be able to decipher where and when to decrease.

On arm holes, I recommend decreasing two stitches in from the edge, this way the garment will look more professional.

Happy knitting,

Mallory

Apr 18, 2012 20:24:10 #

susieknitter
(a regular here)

If you don't manage to download the program that I advised you use then I would suggest that you use a pattern that has a pic of each of the garment pieces with the measurements. Do your swatch has Mallory has told you to. The rows are easy to work out. To work out the armhole decreasing is a little more complicated. But basically you knit to the start of the armhole and then you take the top measurement, the neck and the shoulders, away from the starting/bottom measurement and that will give you the measurement that you need to decrease on the armholes up to the shoulder shaping. To explain in an easy to understand way, if you start with 20" and the neck and shoulders measure 16" you will need to decrease 4", 2" on each armhole to leave you the required 16" to work the neck and shoulders.

Hope that you can understand this.

Hope that you can understand this.

Apr 19, 2012 13:29:30 #

Thanks both for the info. I think I get it. I will have to put it into practice to get a better understanding I think. I'll leave the calculations till the weekend, as completely shattered with work this week.

Apr 22, 2012 03:22:34 #

The Knitware website has a section for directions on d/l on Windows 7. I know they had some problems with it not working on it but I think they have it fixed.

Apr 22, 2012 04:22:56 #

Still unable to download even with the instructions, OH tried too. Thanks for the help though.