First Panel Edging: From RS and working in ends of rows along long side of Panel, join A with sc in end of first row; *ch 5, sk next 3 rows, sc in end of next row; rep from * across long side working last sc in end of last row.
Join Next Panel: From RS, arrange long edge of Second Panel next to edging of First Panel. Join A with sc in end of first row of Second Panel; *ch 2, drop lp from hook, insert hook in 3rd ch of corresponding ch-5 sp of First Panel, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 2, sk next 3 rows of Second Panel, sc in end of next row; rep from * across to join panels and working last sc in end of last row. Work edging along rem long side of Second Panel, in same way as edging was worked on First Panel. Join rem panels in same way.
Cast on..invisible for ribbing...and shell cast on
Nearly seventy years ago, a great aunt taught me a method of casting on ribbing. I wrote it down and used it quite often. Then the bit of paper got lost. Found it again yesterday in an ancient cookbook(!). I would like to know if anyone here is familiar with this method. If not, I do recommend that you try it out. I think it looks fantastic.
You start with a length of contrasting yarn (will be removed later). Using the thumb method, cast on half the number of stitches required plus one.
If you are trying it out and want a swatch of forty sts. cast on 20 plus 1.
Now use the proper yarn you want for the ribbing.
1st row. K1,*yfwd, K1, repeat from * to end.
I slip the first and knit the last, regardless of seam, regardless of project, regardless of pattern...it just looks better. I prefer the seamed edges to have it (tho many say not to) because the neater edge is simply easier to sew together neatly. It's all up to you and it doesn't matter if you slip/knit the last, slip/purl the last, knit/slip the last or knit/purl the last.....they all give you a chain edge...just be consistent when you choose one.
Please watch this video from Kaffe Fassett, big knit designer, knitter and quilter. His partner, Brandon Mably, demonstrates the way they knit their ends to change colors, which they do all the time....doesn't matter if you are joining 2 ends of a new skein to old skein or if you are putting in a new color....same technique. The entire tape is wonderful, but if you would like to jump to the demo, you can go to 6:00 and see it right away. I love this as there is no weaving in (that's done with our needles) and there is no lump as you are not knitting WITH the ends, you are merely encapsulating them behind your work. ***Note: the only thing I would add. When you are joining 2 colors that are very different in dark/light contrast....I place the join behind the dark color. So, if I am knitting TOWARD the dark color, I do just as the demo shows. If I am knitting toward the LIGHT color, I place ends in a hair clip and wait till I finish the row and am purling back....that way, I can pick them up when I reach them and purl them in just as they were before, but they will be going behind the dark color and so have no chance of showing at all. I don't have to do this often, but I mention is as a possibility for multi-color knitters.
I have a 32' long barn with 10 ft ceiling.... one wall is shelves from floor to ceiling. Bottom row on floor is clothing fabric, color sorted, in bins so I don't have to worry in case water gets into barn. from 2nd shelf to top of wall is industrial shelves holding all my cone yarn and quilting fabric, color sorted. Top shelf is translucent bins with all my yarn, color sorted. I do NOT separate yarn by fiber or size....I use anything with anything...it is absolutely fine to do so. I have been mixing whatever I wanted for decades, it doesn't hurt to do this, at all. The only thing you have to do is to wash everything as if it was silk. I use cold water, delicate cycle, easy spin. Then I lay item on 2 or 3 stacked towels to wick away some of the moisture. I shape, use flat of my hand to smooth from top down to 'finish' the nap. Then I let it get absolutely air dry before moving. The only thing I do differently is lace, which I pin down and steam (2" above item) and again, let air dry absolutely.
here is Cheryl Brunette's method of picking up sts for necklines.... it is, by far, the best method I have ever used and is definitely my new goto neckline. Whether you are ribbing, making a collar or binding....whatever the finish method, this pickup will give you a finished and smooth result. Don't worry about if you pattern says do one row or pick up or pick up and knit....just pick up with her method, make the adjusting row (you will understand after) and then do what the pattern says...you're gonna love it.