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    Beautiful! I made a sampler that said, "Use it up, Wear it out. Make it do, Or do without." You've certainly done that with style! I'll try this on my next afghan.

    I was once learning to spin from a friend. She does so many different things - including captaining her own fishing vessel. I asked her how she managed and how brave she was to try so many new things. Her answer has
    always helped me and stayed with me, "If I had to be perfect at everything I did, I would never get anything done and I would be afraid to try new things. I would rather enjoy what I do than be stopped by being a perfectionist."

    Each day is a gift from God...that's why it's called the present.

    For books, including pattern booklets, etc., check out the title at www.booksprice.com That site usually will have the book listed for sale at 20 or more sellers. You can compare prices for new & used books at numerous vendors - including any S/H charges. You can then go directly to the individual seller to make the transaction. Speaking of "used" books, many times I have bought a "used" copy of the book I wanted (always at least in Good or Very Good condition) and I have never been disappointed. recently purchased a new copy of a brand new book on Scarves that has been very highly rated. I paid less than 1/3 of the publisher's price - including S/H. Try www.booksprice.com You will be impressed.

    This will be for one of my nieces for Christmas. It's using my SABLE - Stash Acquisition Beyond Life Expectancy. LOL

    I'm trying to us up some of my stash, so I can replenish it with new stash in January.

    Thanks for looking!

    Bookwoman said:
    Sometimes I think we are so "aware" of what "might" hurt us or our children that we forget that for hundreds of years women sat with children and knitted or crocheted or sewed and TAUGHT that skill to their children! I do think that maybe I am not in tune with this generation of "helicopter parents" who think they need to protect their offspring from just about everything including a chance to learn something that is not only historic, but relevant to their lives and much more valuable than one more computer game!

    I knit with my grandchildren around all the time and even have my granddaughter help me wind yarn (she loves it!) and she is only 4. Charlie, my 2 year old grandson plays with the leftovers and their Mom, who is one of the most protective people I know, thinks it's good for them to experience the idea of "making something" with Grandma.

    Would I want them to be with someone who isn't paying attention if they started to get into a knitting bag with sharp needles? Absolutely not! Would I ask the person the put the bag up somewhere out of reach? Yes and then tell the children to look with their eyes, not their hands...so, maybe I am an old-fashioned "LOL"--in this case, Little Old Lady!! :)
    SO VERY WELL SAID!
    My daughter is THE protective parent, and her children have grown up around their "grammy" knitting. Ooops!
    Another LOL...
    "Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid." ~ Albert Einstein
    # ^
    Feb 2, 12 09:17:33
    Kissnntell
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    that is called TRIPLE A - DOUBLE D:

    AGE ACQUIRED ATTENTION DEFICIT DISORDER

    **************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but to slide in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "WOW . . . What a ride!"
    "The budget should be balanced, the Treasury should be refilled, public debt should be reduced, the arrogance of officialdom should be tempered and controlled, and the assistance to foreign lands should be curtailed, lest Rome become bankrupt. People must again learn to work, instead of living on public assistance." Cicero , 55 BC

    Across the fields of yesterday, she sometimes come to me. The little girl home from play, the girl I used to be.

    WHY:
    "Teachers report that knitting has helped students increase their math and reading skills, as well as levels of concentration, control, follow-through, and sense of mastery. Students who knit are also reported to have improved hand/eye coordination, small motor skills, and communication skills Evidence of the benefits of knitting on academic skills, however, remains anecdotal."

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    bids etc. websites

    http://www.knittingfool.com/pages/abbrev.guest.cfm

    TAGS

    The front of the tag is very personal: Hand Made Especially for _______(insert name here or put BABY) by _______(insert appropriate name here: Grandma, Aunt Gina, Your Friend Gina, etc.) I sometimes add a little sticker in the corner (teddybear, doll, toy, flower, butterfly, etc.) I use large address labels to print the "CARE FOR" instructions and stick that on the back of the tag. Then I punch 2 holes in the top of the tag and use a piece of the matching yarn to attach the tag to the front of the item. This has been such a huge hit with everyone who receives them!

    3 strand
    navajo

    ruffles yellow sweater:
    It's a Sirdar pattern called Snuggly Pearls Double knitting number 3905

    LINEN STITCH You're welcome. I was pretty sure this would do what you needed. I use it for the bottoms and straps on market bags.

    prosas wrote:
    These are the videos I used to make my bag.
    Part 1 video
    Part 2 video
    Part 3 videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPKQC2Eztjs&feature=fvwrel
    I used a total of 396 soda tops for the bag and 70 for the handle - grand total of 466 soda tops and it took me less than a week to make. The thread I used to make it can be found here - http://creativeyarnsource.com/la_espiga_no_18.html
    I used size 9 instead of 18.

    http://www.canadianliving.com/crafts/knit_a_pretty_vintage_hand_towel.php

    “The subject of Ray is my brother, Raymond Carr,” says Debra. “At the time, he was living with me as he convalesced from serious back surgery. I had painted members of my family in the past, but painting Raymond turned out to be different, somehow more intense and intimate. I wanted the painting to show the complexity of his personality and how the severity of his physical situation weighed on him. In establishing these as my objectives, I got to know him in ways I couldn’t have previously. For me, portrait painting is about technique and mastery of one’s craft, but it’s also about accessing the luminosity of the transcendent moment that occurs when the spirit of the painter, the sitter, and the process come together in a visual image. That’s the moment the paint on a canvas is more than paint on canvas. It becomes art.

    An art quote by Debra Carr, from The Artist's Magazine and ArtistsNetwork.com

    “After I graduated from school, financial realities led me into the world of business and, to my surprise, I functioned successfully for many years as an international negotiator. Despite the stability the financial rewards gave me, I always felt stressfully out of place in the corporate environment. Then, an unexpected illness brought my life and my choices into sharp focus. After serious consideration, I changed my career and simultaneously had the good fortune to meet the painter Paul W. McCormack. With this encounter, my education and life as a representational painter truly began.

    “My career as a painter has been challenging in many ways and it comes at a cost, but it has taught me priceless life lessons: how to work through self-doubt, to be openly vulnerable, to push through the fear of judgment, and most critically, to show up every day to work knowing that in the end the only support I may receive will come from me. I’ve learned that can be enough.” ~DC

    Almost every issue of The Artist’s Magazine features a Competition Spotlight (subscribe today so that you don’t miss out). It’s a special place, where we invite the artists to tell us in their own words about the work they’ve submitted that, although didn’t win a prize, still struck a chord with the editorial team. These pictures never cease to inspire. Debra’s closing paragraph in particular speaks to my beliefs as well, and I thank her for sharing them, as well as her painting and story, with all of us.

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    barabrith

    This is an everyday favourite of mine. It is fat free and you can make it sugar free too.
    1lb mixed dried friut
    1lb self raising flour
    1 egg
    1tsp mixed spice
    1mug strong tea
    6 ozs sugar or equivelant in Splenda or Stevia based sweeter
    Enough milk to make a soft mix

    1. Day before put fruit to soak in the tea
    2. In a large bowl just mix everything together
    3. Bake in a lined 2lb loaf tin at 160c (about 325f ) for 11/2 hrs until a knife comes out clean

    lizmaxwell

    LOL, my Mom used to tell me I had lots of Initiative, but no Finishiative!

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    male female

    Male or Female? You might not know this...but a lot of non-living objects are actually either male or female. Here are some examples:

    Male or Female? You might not know this...but a lot of non-living objects are actually either male or female. Here are some examples:

    FREEZER BAGS: They are male, because they hold everything in...but you can see right through them.

    PHOTOCOPIERS: These are female, because once turned off...it takes a while to warm them up again.
    They are an effective reproductive device if the right buttons are pushed...but can also wreak havoc if you push the wrong Buttons.

    TYRES: Tyres are male, because they go bald easily and are often over inflated

    HOT AIR BALLOONS: Also a male object... Because to get them to go anywhere......you have to light a fire under their arse.

    SPONGES: These are female...because they are soft......squeezable and retain water.

    WEB PAGES:
    Female...because they're constantly being looked at and frequently getting hit on.

    TRAINS: Definitely male... Because they always use the same old lines for picking up people..

    EGG TIMERS: Egg timers are female because....over time...all the weight shifts to the bottom.

    HAMMERS: Male..... Because in the last 5000 years.....they've hardly changed at all...and are occasionally handy to have around.

    THE REMOTE CONTROL: Female. Ha! You probably thought it would be male...but consider this: It easily gives a man pleasure, he'd be lost without it...and while he doesn't always know which buttons to push...he just keeps trying

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    socks # 2

    Knitting socks can be addictive. One of the reasons is they are so portable. If you are concerned about the bulkiness around the arch find a pattern that the ribbing continues from the ankle down to the toe decreases. Or in your case they would start after the increases for the toe and body of the sock. {arch} You might contact the Plymouth Yarn Co and ask for their pattern called Encore Sock {ribbed sock}. I use this one as it isn't so bulky and you can get a snug fit yet comfortable fit. Good Luck. Tootsie001

    My favorite ribbing style came from an English lady (WWII war bride).
    On and even number of sts. K 1b (knit into the back of the stitch) P 1.

    You are only knitting into the back of each stitch every other row. It gives a very elastic rib that doesn't get baggy.

    I believe this is what is used on most Aran sweaters.

    Magic Loop videos: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=knitting+magic+loop&aq=f

    There aren't many sock patterns written specifically for these small circular needles. But it isn't difficult to convert a pattern written for dpns or magic loop to work on a single small circular. You'll need stitch markers to indicate which "needle" you're on.

    Here's what saves me time on a standard heel flap and gusset sock:

    I don't use stitch markers at all until I'm done with the cuff and leg and at a length where I want to start the heel. Then I divide the stitches in half (with the prettier ones on top) and work the entire heel flap, including turning the heel, right on the circular needle, going back and forth on the heel stitches and leaving the instep stitches unworked right where they are on the cord. You don't have to switch to DPNs for the heel. I am using Chiaogoo red lace needles, which are similar to Hiya Hiya. I have not tried this with Clover, KA, or Addis. I know others do this too, I'm not saying I invented it, but I know many people think you need DPNs for the heel, and you may not need to switch. I also didn't invent this, but if I'm doing a reinforced heel I do sl1,p1 across and then knit across the other side, instead of doing the slip stitches on the knit side. This goes faster for me since I knit faster than I purl (and because of the slipped stitches there are half as many to purl).

    When you're done with the heel, pick up and knit your gusset stitches along the side of the heel, then place a GREEN marker to indicate the beginning of your instep (top of foot) stitches (half your original stitch count). Place a RED marker at the end of your instep stitches. You should also have a single marker in the middle of the heel, which (in my system) changes to a double marker when it's a decrease row, so you can tell right away if you're on a knit plain (single marker) or a decrease row (double marker). Pick up and knit the other side of the heel, and then off you go again in the round.

    All of your gusset decreases will happen on either side of the green and red markers. Nothing ever happens in between these two markers (until you get to where you're doing the toe). You knit up to 3 stitches before the green marker and then k2 tog and k1, slip marker, knit your instep stitches to the red marker, slip marker, then k1, ssk and knit to the "middle of the heel" marker and change it from double to single then knit a round plain.

    The stitches between your heel marker and green marker are needle 1. The green marker to the red marker is needle two. Red marker to heel marker is needle 3.

    The green and red markers save me a lot of time because I don't have to think at all which needle I'm on. I know at a glance exactly what I'm doing. Obviously you can use something other than green and red, but make is something you will easily recognize as the beginning, and a different one for the end, of the instep stitches.

    That's it, nothing earth shattering and probably sounds stupid to a lot of people. But I know I used to spend too much time figuring out where I was in the pattern, or ripping back because of a misplaced decrease, and now things just zip along beautifully.

    'Tis better to have knit and frogged than to never have tried the pattern.

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    lace curtain yarn

    I used a size 7 needle and the thread is Silk City Cotton 3/2.

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    bits page 2

    knit up over index away from body down inside hand around little finger toward body (clockwise) under two fingers over index finger. throw with index finger English

    http://www.kaspaikka.fi/neulonta/video/nurja_silmukka.mpg continential

    http://lucys-knitting-adventure.blogspot.com/2010/09/some-knitting-progress.html Braiding yarn

    You can still do the Russian Join when adding on a new color. Just knit to where you need to change colors, then 'tink' a stitch, place a safety pin into the yarn exactly where your next color needs to be, then 'tink' several more stitches.

    Once you have a long enough piece to do the join, go ahead and join it with the ne
    w color at exactly the spot where the safety pin is, then continue knitting as usual (after removing the safety pin).

    http://onepieceknitting.com/ rich designs one piece sweaters.

    zipper in sweater
    ZIPPER TAPE:
    There is a product we use in sewing that is a double sided, paper backed, sticky tape, about a quarter inch wide that I use for installing zippers; it is easy to use, and will wash out when the garment is washed. Peel one side of the paper off, position the tape on the zipper, then position the zipper correctly on the sweater, peel off the second piece of paper, and stitch down both sides.

    http://www.knittingparadise.com/s-105-1.html INFORMATION ETC<

    Cherish Yesterday
    Brain perfect

    many mistakes can be corrected without froging if caught soon enough..if you are that fussy...what you need to do instead of frogging, is to check each row upon completion, like the lace knitters do. You can also install "lifelines" so that the frogging that is done will not need to be done back to the very beginning. research how to "pick up " dropped stitches using a crochet hook..these can be brought up many rows ( on plain SS) if necessary.

    If you are struggling with a bit of obsessive compulsive disorder..then its time to sit down and breath...stop the repetitive bit in its tract..just refuse to frog..put it away..wait until the impulse passes..and research this issue. it is one of the few brain disorders that can be cured.

    You could force yourself to not fix an error..but it should not be a dropped stitch that will come back to bite you. There is no such thing as perfection..and a single error..is what some do on purpose to avoid this irrational urge.

    Know that perfectionism is a way the brain can torture you...face your brain and decline to be tortured. Ask your brain instead to alert you when you make the mistake as it happens...and regardless pay more attention to your knitting as you knit. One way to learn to take more care is to try some lace knitting...good luck..make knitting FUN instead of a subtle form of torture!

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    measuring yarns/ sweaters/knittingfool

    # ^
    Mar 13, 12 15:02:08
    mombr4
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    Online

    you can covert grams to ounces

    http://www.metric-conversions.org/weight/grams-to-ounces.htm

    or convert meters to yards

    http://www.metric-conversions.org/length/meters-to-yards.htm

    grams do not convert to yards.

    Hope this helps.

    mombr4

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    # ^
    Mar 13, 12 15:20:08
    Joy Marshall
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    ReneeAnne wrote:
    I love the drop sweater patterns on Ravelry but they all give grams for yarn measurements. Does anyone know how to convert this to yardage? thanks for any help you can give me.

    I think this would be comparing apples to oranges. Grams refers to weight, like ounces would be. Yardage is a length measurement. You might try going to Drops Garn Studio's own website. They will often have term choices depending on what country you live in.

    Joy Marshall

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    # ^
    Mar 14, 12 09:53:44
    mmccamant
    Joined: Jul 17, 11
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    You can Google the name of the suggested yarn or find it on a yarn dealer's web site. That might give you the information from the label: weight and length (often in both grams and ounces, meters and yards). Then you can convert the weight of the yarn you have to the length and compare it to the suggested yarn.

    Example: the suggested yarn calls for 100 grams. You discover (from the label) that that's 200 yards. Your yarn weighs 50 grams and its label says that's 75 yards. Your yarn yields 150 yards per 100 grams, not as much as the suggested yarn.

    (I always use a gram scale (kitchen scale) to weigh leftover yarn. I write the weight on the label and then use that number plus the length and weight of the original ball [from the label] to figure out how many yards I have left. It's approximate at best.)

    mmccamant

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    # ^
    Mar 14, 12 10:30:04
    kniturassoff
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    You type in the name of your yarn under yarns on ravelry. They will tell you the specifics such as yardage. I find this very helpful when substituting yarns and seeing if I have enough for projects

    kniturassoff

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    # ^
    Mar 14, 12 12:41:22
    Waksupi
    Joined: Dec 25, 11
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    Online

    If it didn't help her, it sure did help me..thanks!
    here is what I pulled from knitting fool,
    using fitted sleeves,pullover style, ladies med

    If your skein is measured in yards:

    For a Long Sleeve Pullover or Cardigan
    size: Woman's Medium, chest size: 36-38 inches
    you will need 8 skeins
    at 170 yards/skein

    If your skein is measured in meters:

    For a Long Sleeve Pullover or Cardigan
    size: Woman's Medium, chest size: 36-38 inches
    you will need 8 skeins
    at 170 meters/skein
    this is for small
    If your skein is measured in yards:

    For a Long Sleeve Pullover or Cardigan
    size: Woman's Small, chest size: 32-34 inches
    you will need 8 skeins
    at 170 yards/skein

    If your skein is measured in meters:

    For a Long Sleeve Pullover or Cardigan
    size: Woman's Small, chest size: 32-34 inches
    you will need 7 skeins
    at 170 meters/skein

    http://www.knittingfool.com/pages/topdown.guest.cfm

    http://www.woolworks.org/patterns/raglan.html

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    two color/ yarn joins

    To avoid the jog, I slip the first stitch cast on, over the last stitch cast on, and slip the last one onto the beginning (in other words, the first stitch becomes the last stitch, and the last stitch becomes the first stitch). After doing the first round, tighten the join with a little tug. Works for me beautifully, especially on socks and caps.

    This is a great pattern, good with a range of color combinations, and would be easy beginners to do. There are videos online that show you how to carry the yarn up the side. There was also a discussion recently about slip-as-if-to-knit vs. slip-as-if-to-purl. On mine, I slipped as if to knit, except for the rows which ended with a slip stitch, in which case I slipped as if to purl. Any experts out there are welcome to weigh in on whether this is "right" or "wrong" for this pattern. This has always confused me so I was interested in the "slip" discussion that posted earlier this week. I hope you will enjoy making this dishcloth as much as I did.

    http://sites.google.com/site/fkwinter/slip-stitch-dishcloth

    Ravelry link is:
    http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/slip-stitch-dishcloth-2

    There's a great blog here with lots of ways:
    http://techknitting.blogspot.co.nz/2010/04/working-in-ends-as-you-go-along-same.html

    Click on the coloured name of each one and it takes you to more visuals.

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    fish pumpkin hat

    Small Mouth Bass Hat To fit child 4-6 years old

    This is adapted from Dead Fish Hat and the Guppie Hat

    I named it this to keep it separate from the other hats and the mouth is definitely much smaller.

    I hope you enjoy making this hat as much as I did and my grandsons love it

    Using 4.5 mm dpn

    Cast on 71 St. divide on 4 needles. Work in round for 1 inch place marker.

    Row 1 knit 24 W&T
    2 purl 13 W&T
    3 knit 14 W&T
    4 Purl 15 W&T
    5 knit 16 W&T
    6 Purl 17 W&T
    7knit 19 W&T
    8 purl 21 W&T
    9 knit 23 W&T
    10 purl 25 W&T
    11 knit 27 W&T
    12 Purl 29 W&T
    13 Knit 61 W&T
    knit to end of row

    Repeat 2-12 for second side of mouth shaping.
    Next row return to knitting in the round.

    Change colours as desired

    Knit for 4.”
    Next round K8 k2tog. Repeat round Knit 4 66 stitches

    Knit for 2”
    Knit 7 k2tog repeat round knit 4 60 stitches

    Knit for 1”
    Knit 6 k 2tog. Repeat round knit 4 53 stitches

    Knit for 1
    Knit 5 k 2tog repeat round k4 40 stitches

    Knit for .5”
    Knit 4 knit 2 together repeat round knit 4 34 stitches

    Knit for 1
    K2 together repeat to end 18 stitches

    Knit 3 rounds

    The tail will be worked in 2 equal sections \straight knitting, not in the round

    Knit 10
    Place the last 8 stitches on a holder

    Row 1 *K1, kf&b* repeat across = 12 sts (turn)
    Row 2 Purl across (turn)
    Row 3 *K1, Kf&b* repeat across = 18 (turn)
    Row 4 Purl across (turn)
    Row 5 K1, Kf&b *K3, Kf&b * repeat between *s 4x=23sts (turn)
    Row 6-11 knit stockinette stitch
    Row 12 K1 K2 tog, knit to last 3 sts, SSK, K1
    Row 13 Purl
    Repeat Rows 12 & 13 4 times more then row 12 once more =13 sts.
    Bind off

    Pick up the 8 stitches from the holder and work as above

    Dorsal Fin:
    PU 15 sts along top of fish

    Kf&b of each st
    Work 1x1 ribbing for 6 rows
    Bind off

    Pectoral Fins:
    PU 10 sts along sides of fish
    Work as for the dorsal fin

    Finishing

    Fold each half of the tail together and sew’
    Weave in all ends

    I use buttons for the eyes, using a bigger button for the bottom and glue a smaller on top

    Abreviations :Kf&b knit into front and back of stitch

    SSK slip 2 stitches as if to knit then knit 2 St together

    W&T to wrap and turn on a RS row knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.

    To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern. Bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work. Slip stitch back to left hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction

    knittingema3
    Fruit/Veggie Baby Hat

    To fit 19” – 20” head, in the main color (purple in this case) cast on 80 stitches on size 6 DPN and knit in the round for 5,” keeping a marker at the start of each round. Row 1: Add green yarn and knit 1 green and then k 7 purple around until the last set, and knit 1 green, pass marker, and then knit 2 green, 5 purple for the next row. (This will ensure the 1st green stitch is ‘centered’ as the green stitches increase.) Continue until the last set and knit 2 green, pass marker, knit 3 green, and 3 purple until the last set, where you will knit 3 green, pass marker, knit 4 green, and 1 purple. The next row, knit in only green, and break off purple.

    Crown: Row 1: K6, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, all the way around. Alternate rows, just knit. Row3: K4, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, all the way around. Row 5: K2, Sl1, K2tog, psso. Row 7: Sl 1, K2tog, psso. Row 9: K2tog, ending with 5 stitches, and place all 5 one needle and continue knitting the i-cord for about 1 inch to make the stem. Or as another variation, you can knit it until it is 4-6” long and then tie it in a knot at the base of the stem.

    Leaves: in green, cast on 5 stitches. Row 1: K2, yo, K1, yo, K2. Row 2 and all even rows, purl. Row 3: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3. Row 5: k4, yo, k1, yo, k4 – 11 stitches. Row 7: sl 1 K1, psso, K7, K2tog. Row 9: Sl 1, K1, psso, K5, K2tog. Row 11: Sl 1, K1, psso, K3, K2tog. Row 13: Sl 1, K1, psso, K1, K2tog. Row 15: Sl 1, K2tog, psso. Fasten off. Make 1-2 more.

    Tendril: With a crochet hook, chain 28 stitches. Next row, 2 single stitches in each of the chain stitches. Fasten off. Sew leaves and tendril to base of stem. All kinds of ways to make these: strawberries, peaches, lemons, watermelons (3” pink, ½” white, rest is green) and so many more! Gooseberry stitch can make raspberries and blackberries. Have fun!

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    pattern folder: towel, dishcloth, raglan

    dish towels
    I whipped up a couple of these this weekend, my own pattern - super easy. The first is the ecru with stripes made from leftover dishcloth yarn (everything is 100% cotton). It has a handle where you can loop the towel through for hanging, and a single crochet border. The second one is improved, with a button closing and no border.

    They are both the same exact pattern, but notice how side two of the solid color cloth creates a different pattern than the solid stripes on side one. Pretty nifty. Both sides look pretty identical on the one made with variegated pastels and white.

    Here's the pattern:

    Cast on a multiple of 4 plus 1

    Row 1 - (P1, K3) across, end P1
    Row 2 - K2, then (P1, K3) across, end k2

    So the entire pattern, both sides is P1, K3 and the only thing you have to remember is that if you are on side 2 you need to K2 before you start the pattern and you also end that row with a K2. I remembered this by looking to see if my yarn tail from cast on was on the RIGHT, if it was on the RIGHT it was a RIGHT side row and I could jump RIGHT in. If it wasn't on my right then it was row TWO and I should knit TWO before I started the pattern. The other thing that makes it very easy is that you can tell exactly where you are when you pick it back up if you are interrupted, because the 2nd stitch of the K3 always makes a stockinette stitch.

    For both I did this:

    Cast on 57 with size 8 needles (5mm)

    Follow pattern adding different colors for stripes if you like, carry the alternate yarn up the side. My stripes were two row stripes. When it gets to a length you like start decreasing for the top. On the ecru striped one I think I did knit two together twice and then knit across to the last four and knit two together twice again. I did that three times I think. Then I knit a five stitch handle coming out of the right side, bound off the stitches in the middle and left the corresponding stitches on a cable needle. When it was the right length I Kirchner stitched them together and sewed the two sides of the handle together into a tube. Sorry, the directions on that one are a bit weak because I was making it up as I went along. Really not sure I could explain it any better than that, sorry.

    For the white and pastel towel I cast on 57 with size 8 (5mm) needles and followed the pattern until it was four inches long in the pastel. Then I did five inches in white (saving enough of each color to make a second that matches for a gift set). Then on a right side row I (k2 together) across and knit the last stitch. On side two I Purled the first stitch and then (p2 together) across. Then continued in stockinette on 15 stitches for about 3 inches. Then (k2 together) 3 times, knit 3, (k2 together) 3 times. Then knit in stockinette the remaining nine stitches for two inches. The way the first decrease row is worked leaves holes, and the middle one is your button hole. Add a button to the back of the hanging band, weave in your ends and it's done. I played around quite a bit with whether to have the button on the band or on the cloth and also tried stitching around the button hole for decorative effect but ended up liking it better plain.

    I think these would also be lovely without the hanging part too; they're really nice towels. Finished size of the towel part is about 10x10 inches for the white and pastel and 11x12 for the ecru stripes.

    You could probably find much better directions for creating the topper if you search the net for towel topper patterns.

    This is going to be my mindless knit while watching tv or listening to audio books pattern for holiday /Christmas gifts for my coworkers and friends. It's a bit boring, but definitely one of those patterns where the finished product looks 10x better than the amount of effort it takes to make.

    Side two

    Side one

    blankie
    http://www.taggies.com/cgi-bin/estore/show_entry?index=1

    Mock Kilting stitch: This is a 6 row repeat pattern
    Cast on any multiple of 7 sts ( I used 21 sts)
    Rows 1 & 6 *P6, K1* repeat from* to end of row
    Rows 2 & 5 *P2, K5* repeat from * to end of row
    Rows 3 & 4 *P4, K3* repeat from * to end of row

    dish cloth

    Nomad:

    I make dish cloths to sell for my craft business and the fastest and easiest pattern I have is as follows:

    Size 8 needle, Sugar 'n Cream yarn

    Cast on 39 sts.
    Rows 1-6: Knit across.
    Row 7: (wrong side) K3, (P6, K3) across.
    Row 8: Knit across.
    Rows 9-14: Repeat Rows 7 and 8, 3 times.
    Repeat Rows 1-14 until dishcloth measures approximately 9 1/2", ending by working Row 5. Bind off all sts. loosely.

    I end mine when I've got five of the strips (rows 1-6) done--except you'll notice on the last set you only do 5 rows.

    Raglan pattern
    Who needs an over-priced pattern from a store?! Here are three different, yet the same, guidlines to make a raglan sweater.
    http://www.woolworks.org/patterns/raglan.html
    http://www.knittingfool.com/pages/topdown.guest.cfm
    http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/OrderForms/TopForm.html

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    m1

    I have used M1 a lot lately. I have noticed on this site most everyone tells you to pick up the bar from front to back and knit into the back. But if you will look at this: http://www.knitpicks.com/tutorials/Make_1_Increase__D67.html you will see that picking up from front to back and knitting in the back leans the stitch one way and picking from back to front and knitting normally will lean it the other way. When I use M1 I always look at what I'm knitting and see which way I want it to lean.

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    bits baby bernard mary maxim

    star stitch Neat! I ran into it, too somewhere along the way - someone posted what does MS mean, I think......went surfing and found it and I think I brought it back to make a new topic in L & R. Here it is again and I'll also put it back on and credit you, Sam.


    BUTTONS:

    http://www.buttons-boutique.com/ sites for buttons
    I totally agree. Have been making my own buttons for all my projects. You can make polymer clay look like any material you want. You have total control over size, shape, color, texture, and pattern and can even add flecks of metallic if you want. And depending on the size, you can get 50=100 buttons out of 2 oz. of clay.

    I use Fimo classic and it is definitely able to go through the washer and dryer. I can't vouch for Sculpey or even Fimo Soft since I don't use them. Polymer clay should not be dry cleaned. One option if you are worried about keeping the buttons safe or using one of the clays that is not as strong is to knit buttonholes where the buttons go and then sew some plain clear buttons onto your decorative button leaving a little extra thread for movement in between. Then just button them into the garment and remove just as easily when washing. On some sweaters that are reversible, such as the baby surprise jacket or the Purl Soho baby cardigan, you can use two different decorative buttons back to back. When you turn the sweater inside out, you have different buttons showing.

    There is a GREAT button store in Portland, Oregon, and they can be found on-line. They are The Button Emporium. Of course, the best way to see their stuff is to be in their store amid all the wonderful buttons they have in stock. It would be a "bit of a drive" from New Jersey, so guess you'll have to settle for a look on your computer.
    I have also found that some yarn shops have a wide selection of buttons. Good luck.

    QUOTE:
    It makes no difference if you fall down, as long as you pick something up from the floor when you get up.

    The skirt pattern does come with the yarn and is also a free download on the Mary Maxim site. Just put Bernat Baby Jacquards in the search bar. There is also a free pattern there for leg warmers. On the sleeves I just had to figure where that patterned yarn would come and make it accordingly. If I was to make it over I would make the scallops all the peach color (cut out the colored part of the yarn). Then embroider the flowers in like the pattern says. I think it would look better. The pattern is from www.vintagepatternshop.co.uk. My daughter got me the yarn in Maryland at JoAnne's. The JoAnne's here does not carry that yarn. You can order it from Mary Maxim. The color I used is Orange Blossom. That color makes it look like flowers. Some of the other colors don't make it look like flowers. I am doing a little boy's sweater now with yarn that has brown (that makes the stripes) and white with blue, brown, and green specks. I'm doing a lot of figuring on this one to make those stripes come together. And it's a raglan sleeve too!

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    picot edge cast on cast off & crochet edge & diagonal edge knit

    Picot Edge Cast Off (video at


    Picot Edge Cast On (video at
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKBOr2IMBMY#)

    crochet edge
    it is actually a dishcloth pattern i made two crocheted edging around each then crocheted them together and then did a simple reverse single crochet edge the pattern i used is found http://knittingonthenet.com/patterns/clothsquirrel.htm
    good luck

    I love the classic pattern for the diagonal baby blanket but have never liked the blunt corner so I've experimented with doing a pointed corner. Here's what I came out with:

    Cast on 1
    1. Increase to 3
    2. Knit
    3. Increase to 4
    4. Knit
    5. Increase to 6
    6. Knit
    7. Knit 3, YO, knit 3
    8. Knit 3, YO, knit 4 ....etc. etc.

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    necklace

    I used Sirdar Firefire. Cast on 14 stitches and stocking stitch until required length. Sew cast on and cast off edges together. Simple.

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    hat

    Here's the latest chemo cap for Delaware Head Huggers. As I was knitting it, I couldn't decide if I liked the right side or wrong side best. The pattern is a multiple of 10 +1, so it's easily adjusted for different yarn weights and sizes.

    I hope you like it!

    You Need:

    Worsted weight yarn – I used Lion Brand Cotton Ease – about 100 yards
    Size 9 circular needles

    Abbreviations:

    K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together as one for a decrease

    SSK – slip, slip, knit – slip two stitches, one at a time to the right hand needle. Insert the left hand needle into both stitches and knit them together.

    Cast on 71 stitches, place marker and join, taking care not to twist stitches.

    Work Brim:

    Row 1: Knit all stitches
    Row 2: Purl all stitches
    Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice more for a total of 6 rows

    Work Body Pattern:

    Row 1: P1 *K1, P1, K2, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1*;
    repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 2: P1, *K2, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1*;
    repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 3: P1, *K3, P3, K3, P1*;
    repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 4: P2, *K3, P1, K3, P3 *;
    repeat from * to * to last 9 stitches, K3, P1, K3, P2

    Decrease Crown:
    Row 1: K2tog, K7, ssk, *K8, ssk*;
    repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 2: Knit all stitches
    Row 3: *K7, ssk*; repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 4: Knit all stitches
    Row 5: *K6, ssk*; repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 6: Knit all stitches
    Row 7: *K5, ssk*; repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 8: Knit all stitches
    Row 9: *K4, ssk*; repeat from * to * to end of row
    Row 10: *K3, ssk*; repeat from * to * to end of row

    Finish:
    Cut working yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Draw the tail through the stitches remaining on the needle. Cinch closed and secure tightly. Weave in ends.

    This hat can also be work inside out with an entirely different look!

    This and my other patterns can be found on my blog at www.knittingwithschnapps.blogspot.com or on Ravelry where I am known as deheadhuggers

    Enjoy!
    Right side out

    Wrong side out - which I also really like

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    sox measure

    Joined: Jul 13, 11
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    Location: Muscoda, Wisconsin

    My sons wear larger socks than you indicate here. Most of the time it depends on the yarn, but with standard sock yarn 56-58 is for a woman or child, 64 for a larger woman and average man (6' under) and I use 72 for my son who has a 16-17 size shoe as he needs the bigger calf. The rule of divide and turn heel is always constant: half the stitches go on a holder, the other half are reduced to half again (72 to 36 to 18) and then I knit the flap one row longer than the 18 stitches I will pick up. Then pick up 18 on each gusset and reduce until you're back at 18.

    I know that probably sounds confusing, but a wonderful lady who taught knitting and owned a yarn store once told me that standard sock making is always the same formula.

    For my younger son, who wears 14-15 size shoe but has a very narrow foot, I stay with the 64 stitches to start and just make sure the top and foot are long enough. If I need a bit more yarn to make it work, I add a contrast color to the heel and toe.

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    measure by ounce

    Are they real "hard" balls? If the yarn was re-rolled too tight the yarn will be stretched all out of "give" and will knit up stiff. (no stretch to the project) If yarn is OK then weigh the yarn (each ball) and check against a label of the same ply yarn as to its weight. You can guesstimate the yardage by taking the info on the label and dividing the oz. into the yardage to find the number of yards per oz. (5 oz./200 yds = 40 yds per oz.) if your 3 balls total 9 oz. you would have 360 yds. give or take 20 yards. This is a pretty fair guesstimate and has served me well as I get a lot of
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