Weaving In Ends As you Knit or Adding New Ball (Video) - rotating old yarn back and forth
(Pictoral) http://sockpr0n.blogspot.com/2006/10/how-to-weave-in-ends…
Weaving in Ends (with tapestry needle)
Cable Repairs (Excellent and Funny)http://www.yarnharlot.ca/blog/archives/2006/06/20/all_is_…
Reading Cable Charts http://www.berroco.com/video/cable_chart.html
Cables Without a Cable Needle:
Lace Knitting Techniques and Helpful Infohttp://www.ravelry.com/groups/beginning-lace-knitters/pag…
Lace pattern random generator http://www.knittingfool.com/Reference/LacePatternGenerato...
Lace Surgery by Romi (Repair)http://rosemarygoround.blogspot.com/2008/04/lace-surgery….
Lace Shawl Repair (Excellent Resource)http://www.heartstringsfiberarts.com/shawlrep.shtm
How To Wear Lace Shawlshttp://www.knitpicks.com/tutorials/Wearing_Lace_Shawls__D…
Bead Spinning for pre-stringing beadshttp://www.theknitgirllls.com/wordpress/index.php/2010/11…
Beading Method Comparison (Excellent)http://www.ravelry.com/projects/like2makethings/beading-t…
Beading with Dental Floss Pictures This link is really extremely good and each frame shows a step. Check it out: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/LindaLovesLace/beading-w-…
Beading With Dental Floss http://chaosvortex.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-try-beading-wit…
Fishtail rubber band bracelets
I did same process with French Knitter, then
same thing with yarn on the French Knitter, and it creates a nice, square-ish icord
Crocheted iCord
Skill: Intermediate
Cast On: Multiple of 3 sts. Colors A and B.
Note
Cast on with Color A and knit one row.
Row 1
(Wrong Side) Color B: p3, *sl 1, wyif, p2; rep from *.
Row 2
Color B: k2, *drop next (color A) st off needle to front of work, k2, then with point of left-hand needle pick up dropped st and slip it onto right-hand needle without working; rep from *, end k1.
Row 3
Color A: *p2, sl 1 wyif; rep from *, end p3.
Row 4
Color A: k1, *sl 2 wyib, drop next (color B) st off needle to front of work, sl the same 2 sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st onto right-hand needle without working, k2; rep from *, end k2.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have reached your desired length.
Rows 1 and 3: (WS) K2, P6, K2
Row 2: P2, Sl 2 to cable or DPN and hold in front, K2 from left needle, K2 from cable or DPN, K2, P2
Row 4: P2, K2, Sl 2 to cable or DPN and hold in back, K2 from left needle, K2 from cable or DPN, P2
k = knit
p = purl
yo = yarn over
ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches tog. A decrease.
c6b = (cable 6 back)- slip 3 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
Cast on multiples of 10
Row 1: p1, k2, yo, ssk, k4, p1
Row 2 and all even rows: k1, p8, k1
Row 3: p1, k3, yo, ssk, k3, p1
Row 5: p1, k4, yo, ssk, k2, p1
Row 7: p1, k5, yo, ssk, k1, p1
Row 9: p1, c6b, yo, ssk, p1
10 rows make up pattern.
Ray of honey -
Skill: Easy
Cast On: Multiples of 4
For this pattern you will need to know the following techniques:
Purl p
Twist Two Back T2B
Twist Two Front T2F
Pattern:
Row 1 (RS): *T2B, T2F; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: *T2F, T2B; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl
Repeat rows 1 4 until you have reached your desired length.
Thanks! I have a canned response because I've been asked a few times, so it's easier than reinventing the wheel! Have fun.
- Judy
===================================== Info re: mini monkeys:
Hi! I bought the pattern in 2010, & she stopped selling for a while, but then started again. Currently, you can get the pattern here:
She also sold the mini socks to make them with, but I'm not sure she does any more. Look around in her etsy store. If you can't find the baby sized work socks anywhere, the monkeys look cute made with baby socks of any color, too.
It's a fun & fairly quick project. No knitting involved unless you want to knit your own mini socks!
Important note: this is not a knitting project. It's the sewing of an already manufactured mini work sock. Unless you want to also knit the mini sock!
===================================== Test area
Photos embedded in a post
Per Bambagirl: Yes - just get the image URL (by clicking on a photo or picture from the web and selecting "copy image URL" ) and embed in a PM by putting img - in square brackets - at the front of the image and then /img - again in square brackets - behind it.
Explanation for others: make something italic make something bold change to red text hot link to Ravelry underline
When you list your phone and/or email address here, you're offering it up to anybody on the entire Internet, and there are a lot of people who w̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ might take advantage of it one way or another. The advice that's always given here on KP (& in site rules, I think) is to remove it from your posting (or have Admin do so if it's too late for you to edit it), then provide that same info by sending a PM to the one person you want to give it to. That will be private between the two of you.
[ s ]will[/ s ]
Combining characters[edit]
In plain text scenarios where markup cannot be used, Unicode offers a number of combining characters that achieve similar effects.
The combining long stroke overlay (U+0336) results in an unbroken stroke across the text:
Separate: A̶B̶C̶D̶ ̶e̶f̶g̶h̶i̶
Combined: A̶B̶C̶D̶ ̶e̶f̶g̶h̶i̶
while the combining short stroke overlay (U+0335) results in individually struck out characters:
Separate: A̵B̵C̵D̵ ̵e̵f̵g̵h̵i̵
Combined: A̵B̵C̵D̵ ̵e̵f̵g̵h̵i̵
Similarly, the combining short solidus overlay (U+0337) results in diagonally struck out letters:
Separate: A̷B̷C̷D̷ ̷e̷f̷g̷h̷i̷
Combined: A̷B̷C̷D̷ ̷e̷f̷g̷h̷i̷
as does the combining long solidus overlay (U+0338), which produces longer diagonal strokes:
I learned how to double knit watching You-tube videos and reading techniques I found on the web. I just practiced a with few rows (honestly, I struggled a bit) and then went ahead anyways and plunged into making the my first double knit potholder the cat
Here are a few that I found very easy to follow:
You-Tube videos -by Liat Gat
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1. Double Knitting Cast-on
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Fishtail rubber band bracelets
I did same process with French Knitter, then
same thing with yarn on the French Knitter, and it creates a nice, square-ish icord
Crocheted iCord
===================================== Info re: mini monkeys:
I bought the pattern in 2010, & she stopped selling for a while, but then started again. Currently, you can get the pattern here:
She also sold the mini socks to make them with, but I'm not sure she does any more. Look around in her etsy store. If you can't find the baby sized work socks anywhere, the monkeys look cute made with baby socks of any color, too.
It's a fun & fairly quick project. No knitting involved unless you want to knit your own mini socks!
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When I want to knit in both ways I would use a two-way cast-on. Most of them use just one thread.
When I will sew the cast-on row I usually make a... chain? cast-on - well, I make a crocheted chain and pick up stitches from it. It also uses one thread.
When I want the cast-on row invisible - to sort of blend with the work - I use a "machine-like" (I think some of the types are also called Italian) cast on - and it is a long tail one.
When I want to have a beautiful, distinct edge, I use the bulgarian cast-on.
It is also a long tail one.
For some things I want a stretchy edge - there are two types of cast-on that are like that, both are with a single thread.
yarns and patterns for sale: http://www.etsy.com/shop/Avramova?ref=si_shop
My favorite is Old Norwegian Cast-on (a version of long tail CO)
Sloped bindoff: http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/beyond_the_basics/sloped_bind-off.aspx
I like the Chinese Waitress cast on:
The long tail cast on is a rather center of the road cast on. It has a little stretch to it , it gives you a nice finished edge. Research your casts on at "New stitch a Day" . It has a video for cast ons and explains when they should be used. A German twist is very stretchy for hats, sweater bottoms ...
Long tail castoff: It's easy, and it's a dead ringer for the longtail caston!
Someone posted this last week.
Old Norwegian makes a great stretchy caston, but binding off is kind of too snug. Then, if you use really big needles, it gets all loopy.
Jeny's suprisingly stretchy bind off http://bit.ly/blFZ9s
I personally like the German twisted cast on and the Interlock bind off which is a sewn bind off--both of them are very stretchy.
Check knitty.com for their bind-off, cast-on articles...there is an amazingly stretchy bind-off and cast-on.
Well it's not the most stretchy bind off, but I really like the crochet bind off.
We have a super easy to follow video for it: http://newstitchaday.com/single-crochet-bind-off/
generally I use the german twist method for hats and gloves, as it is a really stretchy cast-on, normal two needle method for cardigans, jumpers etc.
three needle cast off
Picot edge cast off
It's easy, and it's a dead ringer for the longtail caston!
I use the crochet cast on. My stitches are always nice and even and not loose. I also like that the cast on edge looks the same as the cast off edge. It's very easy to do.
Crochet cast on. Thanks, Ulrika. I knew there was a cast on that matched the cast off but couldn't remember the name.
There is, right here on KP, a collective list of cast on's // bind off's in the files. Designer1234 collected everyone's input and created a resource file. WE did this about 2? yrs ago.
Twisted cable caston
I do a knitting cast on since i learned to do it and it works very well stitches are evenly spaced... how my mother did it she cast on like knitting but with her fingers and one needle somehow worked for her for years.
It would help to know what cast ON method you have there. It looks like long-tail cast on. Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn bind off matches that--if that is what it is. http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer06/FEATsum06TT.html http://newstitchaday.com/elizabeth-zimmermans-sewn-bind-off/
A crochet cast on is going to make it loose. This one is mainly used as a provisional cast on. Use a long tail cast on. If you want your cast on and bind off to look the same (like for scarves) instead of knitting your bind off, try purling your bind off. Purl two stitches together all across. It will match your cast on.
If you do the crochet cast on when you start your project it will match the standard bind off.
Another idea I've seen is to cast on using a provisional cast on. Knit item. Cast off however you want. Pick up stitches from prov cast on. Cast off to match other end. Tah dah! ::
Bonus: I left a comment on Cheryl Brunette's video about this subject, and she wrote back in agreement; but more importantly, she pointed me to her video of a bindoff that matches the longtail caston. It's easy and identical - .
Well, before you explore other cast ons, consider this: You're doing the knitted cast on for garter stitch. So, your first row after the cast on should be a purl row. That would enable the cast on to sort of just blend right in to the garter stitch, yes? Give that a try and see if it solves your problem.
If not, check out Oftroy's page o'cast ons: https://sites.google.com/site/oftroysgoldenapples/home/tutorials/cast-ons
Only if knitting in the round. If knitting flat, the knit caston would be followed by all knit rows for garter stitch. I assume since it's for straps, it's being knit flat? And knitted caston seems most fitting, since you want all knit rows.
My way is cable cast-on,and purlwise cast-off on right side.
¯°º·¤.¸¯°º·¤.¸ ♥ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º° ¯°º·¤.¸¯°º·¤.¸ ♥ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°
I was notified of a new video of Cheryl Brunette's showing how to reinforce a cast-on edge (here: ).
After seeing her do a crocheted slip stitch on her caston edge, it occurred to me that because a crocheted slip stitch is exactly the same as a knit standard cast-off (k1, pso), that's all you need to do to have matching cast-on and cast-off edges.
Cast on any way you want. Cast off in the standard way. On your cast on edge, do a crocheted slip stitch all around or across.
Bonus: I left a comment on Cheryl Brunette's video about this subject, and she wrote back in agreement; but more importantly, she pointed me to her video of a bindoff that matches the longtail caston. It's easy and identical - . I think I'll setup a new post just for that so others will see it.
Another idea I've seen is to cast on using a provisional cast on. Knit item. Cast off however you want. Pick up stitches from prov cast on. Cast off to match other end.
If you do the crochet cast on when you start your project it will match the standard bind off.
I asked this question before and folks reccommended the sewn bind-off. I was very pleased with how it turned out. I believe I found a video on how to do it on youtube. Or here is a diagram.... www.knittingdaily.com/blogs/howto/archive/2008/05/15/sewn-bind-off.aspx (for matching the long tail cast on) - might be a bad link, use this:
An attractive and stretchy cast-on method for 1X1 ribbing.
Requirements:
Crochet hook 2 sizes larger than the needles you are using
needles of the required size for the yarn you are using.
Spare yarn in a different colour C2
Main working yarn for your project. MC
Abbreviations:
M1K1 Make one by Yarnover method. Bring yarn forward as if to purl the next stitch. Leaving the yarn at the front when knitting the next stitch will create a loop over the needle which becomes another stitch when knitted on the next row.
S1p slip 1 stitch purlwise
Byf bring yarn forward ( to front)
Byb bring yarn back ( to back)
With C2 and the crochet hook, make a chain length of half the number of stitches required plus 1, pull the tail end through last loop. eg if your pattern requires 40 sts to cast on, then make a chain of 21.
With your needle pick up the half the required stitches (bump loops on the back of the chain) +1 eg if you need 40 stitches then pick up 21 chain bumps.
Row 1: knit into the bump of the last chain crocheted with MC, *M1K1. Repeat from * to end. Make sure to finish on a K1.
Row 2: slip the first stitch purlwise, knit the yarn over from the previous row, *Byf S1p Byb K1 repeat from * to last stitch S1p.
Row 3: *K1 Byf S1p Byb. Repeat from * to last stitch K1.
Row 4: S1p * K1 Byf S1p Byb. Repeat from * to end.
Row 5: Repeat row 3 to last stitch S1p.
Row 6: K2 *P1 K1 repeat from * to last stitch S1p. Row:7 P2 *K1 P1 repeat from * to last stitch S1p.
Continue with Rows 6 and 7 until work measures the required length
Remove the crocheted edge by undoing the loop at the first stitch and pulling it out gently, weave in end of MC
I find that you can continue with a 2X2 ribbing for a cable pattern quite easily from a 1 x1 rib if you need to.
I have yet to devise a similar method for 2X2 or larger ribbing.
¯°º·¤.¸¯°º·¤.¸ ♥ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º° ¯°º·¤.¸¯°º·¤.¸ ♥ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°´¯ ¸.¤·º°
I know people have discussed this recently so just wanted to share some newly created solutions for myself. Having an extremely wide calf, this has been a big problem for me. So, once again I went looking for a loose enough cast off on a toe-up sock I was finished last week and this is what I found.
When working the last row, wrap the yarn 2x over the right hand needle before pulling through the loop and off the left needle. You will wind up with a double stitch--not to worry, tho. Next round you insert the right hand needle into the first loop of a stitch and pull it off the left needle. Repeat with 2nd stitch. You now have 2 very loose stitches on the right hand needle. Pass the first stitch over the second as you would normally do in a bind off. Repeat this with each succeeding stitch till all is bound off, veeery stretchy. If you need even more, than do the last couple of rows with a larger size needle. This is definitely the stretchiest bind off ever.
For a Cast On for a top-down sock, I found this UK stitch which also works with putting double stitches on the needle. I think you need to watch to video on this one--too hard to explain in just words. The knitter says it is good for double or single rib, but you can use it however you need. Be forewarned this is a bit fiddly and difficult for a continental knitter, but it can be done and it works great.
I am very excited at finding these 2 methods as it irritates the heck out me to have a hat or a scarf with an edge that feels tight, not to mention a sock.
Another Cast on that I think is fun but never recall KP'rs mentioning is the Turkish Cast on. There are a number of good videos on that, too. Also a very funny blog that I came across talks about this cast on for other than sox.
To starta list of cast on The count keeps changing! It stands at 60 +cast ons. (as of 5/14)
This list is incompletebut it's all the cast ons I know--Every time I think I have them all, new ones pop up.. Many cast on's have multiple names--(and many names are used for 2 or more cast ons!)-- The cast on I call 'Long Tail Twisted' is commonly called Old Norwegian, Twisted Norwegian, and Twisted German-- and it might have other names.
In addition, many cast ons have several ways to create them--most simplisticly one major difference in methods is: some cast on methods are easier for knitter that use a right hand yarn hold, and other methods are easier for knitters that use a left hand yarn holdFor example the Twisted Cast on and the Maine cast on are identical but worked differentlyThe first is very comfortable for a left hand yarn holding knitter, the second, is more comfortable for a right hand yarn holding knitter.
My videos are always listed first, but I will often include other videos --and in some cases, the only video is by another knitter. As I learn new cast ons, and find a video for them, I will add them. They will be tagged (NEW) for the first 6 or so months.
LIST of Sections on this page
Single Yarn Cast Ons
Double Yarn Cast Ons
Eyelet (Noose)Cast Ons
Invisible Cast Ons
Cast Ons with Matching Bind Offs
Cast Ons Worked in Ribbing
At the bottom of the page, there are links to other pages in this tutorial.
Single Yarn cast ons
Knit Cast on
Same worked as a Purl Cast on
Same worked in ribbing (knits and purls)
Knit Cast on Sturdy
Knit Cast on with picot's
Knit Cast on with an extra chain stitch done as a crochet cast on (Scarlet Zebra's Video)
Cable Cast on
Cable cast on worked as a purl See the Cable cast on video-above
Cable cast on worked knits and purls--seed or 1 X 1 ribbing (OR See the Cable Cast on Video-above)
Double Chain Knit cast on
Imitation I-cord cast on (another version of a double chain cast -totally new method! Thanks, Dolly.)
Chinese Waitress Cast On(an alternate method of doing the double chain cast on)
Tilybuddy's version of the Chinese Waitress cast on --EASIER to do!
Chinese Knob (or button) Cast On An attractive cast on with a knobby edge--but not very stretchy.
Double knotted Cast on (a very simple, very stretchy cast on)
Buttonhole (another method to create same cast on as the double knotted cast on)
Guernsey Cast on (third method, a bit slow and tedious, I think, to do Buttonhole/double knotted cast on)
Not to be confused with Channel Isle cast on (see Double yarn cast ons, below)
Jeny's super stretchy (a fourth version of the double knotted, aka buttonhole cast on)
All 4 versions have the same result--all are equally stretchy.
Simple as Knit cast on
Simple as Purl cast on-- see simple link
Simple Alternate (knits and purls)--see simple link
Simple as Twisted--(same base stitch as the twisted Long Tail)--NEW
Wrapped Cast on(especially good for ribbon yarn)
(AKA as Winding Cast on. This video treats it as a provisional cast on, but it can also be uses as a knit in round cast on (for say a toe up sock
Crocheted (can be used as a provisional cast on)
--done with a crochet hook
--done with fingers
--picked up from a chain (not recommend)
(Also see Knit cast on with extra chain above)
(Also see Imitation I-cord cast on above)
Double crochet chain, twisted (usually 2 colors)
Tilybuddy's Knit and Yarn over cast on
--for left hand yarn hold
Loopy/Lacy Cast On (similar to Tily's cast on)
Back to LIST
Double (2 strand) and Triple Yarn Cast On's
Most of these cast ons are variations of a basic long tail cast. Please note Long Tail is the common name for these styles of cast ons in US, and parts of Canada. In other parts of the world, the same cast ons are sometimes called Double Yarn, or Double starts cast ons. There are LOTS of different names for all of these cast ons.
Some versions of long tail cast ons are/have been traditionally worked with a double strand of yarn on the thumb. Almost all versions can be worked AIn two colors/strands of yarn--(a contrasting yarn for thumb), OR B--with double (or triple) strands of yarn for thumb) If you count these variations, the number of 2 strand cast on methods is equal to 20 or 30 cast ons! One version of a basic long tail features 4 yarns held together for the thumb yarn--It looks very different but its really just a basic long tail.
Long tail (sling shot)
Long tail (thumb)
Long Tail Twisted (sling shot version)
Long Tail Twisted (AKA Maine) thumb method
Long Tail Open (has a slightly different look)
Long tail (knit on)--(looks the same as the Open Long Tail cast on)
Long tail Cast on Indian style--looks the same as the knit on long tail and open tail cast on, but done differently
Twisted double chain --(a variant of the knit on long tail--with a twist)
Long Tail Open and Closed (aka Estonian--see Nancy Bush's video)-A combination of Open and standard Long Tail.
Long tail 2 color alternate thumb and index finger style
Chinese Long Tail Variation(excellent for 1 X 1 ribbing.)
The Alsace Long Tail--a long tail variation that creates a row of knit stitches on the right side of the work NEW
Double Needle Long tail Cast On this is a new video--this cast also has a matching bind off. NEW
--written, illustrated directions from: Principles of Knitting, June Hemmon Hiatt. Ms Hiatt designed this cast .
Long Tail Austrian Style--(with index finger stitch (row 0) twisted--good for twisted ribbing)
Craig's Long Tail--this long tail variation has a twisted base stitch, similar to the channel Island cast on
Long tail 2 color simple
Long Tail Braided (Long tail worked with from 2 to 5 strands of yarn--shown as a 3 color braid)
Kihnu Double Braided Cast on--(origianally from Nancy Bush--AKA Chinese 2 color cast on)
Long Tail Cast on Sturdy-- similar to Knit Sturdy, with a Long Tail cast on Base.
Channel Island
EZ's Provisional cast on
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Eyelet (Noose)Cast Ons
These Cast on's, called eyelet, noose pinhole and other names--are designed for casting on when knitting a flat disk in the round--as you might find in the center of a circular (or square) shawl, or at the crown of a hat. They can also be used for casting on a toe up sock--especially if you desire a round toe on the sock.
Emily Ockers cast on is the best know, but not the easiest to do. There are also 2 disappearing loop methods, and what is, in effect a provisional method, called the belly button. In the end, all leave a small neat eyelet of knitting.
Emily Ocker --(she didn't claim to have invented it, but popularized it.)
Emily Ocker Eyelet cast on (video by Crafty Andy)
Emily Ocker Eyelet (my video coming soon)
Disappearing Loop
Method 2 --A disappearing loop method--No knot
Method 3--A slip stitch method--this method uses a slip knot. It's the easiest method.
Belly Button method for an Eyelet cast on (Text/drawings)
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Invisible Cast Ons (aka Kitcherned Cast on's) are cast on's that have a neat rolled edge, and its almost impossible to tell where (or how!) the cast on was done. There are a number of methods for creating these edges.
All of them are a bit tricky--and all of them are easy to work too tight (which spoils the cast on edge) Take some time--try out a few methods, until you find the method you like best. I particularly like these cast on's for HATS and for top down sweaters--in both of these cases, the cast on edge hangs around your face--and its worth the effort to learn a cast on that make a perfect frame for your face. All of these cast ons are perfectly matched to the Kitchener bind off (aka A Grafted bind off.) A matching selvage can be created by working a 2 stitch i-cord.
Figure 8
Turkish
Tubular AKA Invisible Cast on, (6 versions) which in the end, all look identical, but are created very differently!
--3 needle
--Crochet--Provisional cast on, R1 is alternate K1, YO's
--Provisional/waste yarn + Picked up Stitches
--Self waste yarn--Similar to EZ's provisional cast on R1 is worked K1, Slip 1
--Judy's magic Cast on
--No waste yarn/Italian method --shown worked in 2 color (for ease in learning--once you master, work in single color)
Edging and Novelty cast ons
I-cord
Lace e.i., Knit hairpin style lace used for a Cast on (See Vogue Knitting)
(aka Chinese non-stretchy cast on with ridged border)
From a sewn edge ( blanket stitch or chain stitch edge or trim on fabric)
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Cast on's with matching bind off's(and selvages)
I suggest you swatch first--while some of these are a perfect match, some are just close matches. Swatching is also an important tool for learning the cast on and bind off.
1--Any invisible/tubular cast on with a Kitchener (grafted) Bind off--(also has a matching selvage)
(there are at least 6 methods for making an tubular cast on)
2--I-cord cast on and I-cord Bind off. (also has a matching selvage)
3--Knit cast on with picotsStandard bind off with picots (also matching selvage)
4--Double Chain Knit Cast on to Double chain bind off(also has a matching selvage)
4a--(also the Chinese waitress cast on and Tilybudy's version of double chain to the Double Chain bind off)
5--Loopy Lace Cast on, and the loopy bind off, the bind off is post 5 in the thread--photo tutorial
(also has a matching selvage)
6--Crochet Cast on to a standard Bind off
7--Long Tail (standardsling shot, or thumb and Open version) to EZ's sewn bind off. Video 1
8--Latvian Long tail (aka Open/Closed long tail to a Sewn bind off (see Joyce Williams, Latvian Dreams)
9--Dolly's Imitation I-cord cast on and bind off (both on one video-perfect matches)
10--Double needle Long tail Cast on and the Out of Order bind off
11--Open closed (aka Estonian) Long tail and the matching sewn bind off.
12--A bobble edge (done after a long tail or other cast on) and a bobble bind off
13--Use a provisional cast on, and then bind off both edges in any cast on you desire
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Cast Ons worked in Ribbing
Knit cast on (worked as a knit and purl cast on) this method is suitable for 1 X 1 or any ribbing patterning--
Cable cast on This called the seed stitch cast, but it is a version of the cable cast on worked in both knits and purls
The forward and reverse Long tail cast on another cast on that can be worked in any rib pattern
This video was originally made to show how to make a cast on sampler, and the first few minutes of video reflect this.
All of the above cast ons are suitable for any ribbing variations, 1 X 1, 2 X 2, or uneven rib patterns like 3 X 1, or 5 X
The cast ons below, are suitable for 1 X 1, or 2 X 2 ribbing.
The Chinese Long tail cast onwhich is already a hybrid cast on (using 1 long tail cast on stitch and one half stitch) is another that can be readily adapted to 1 by 1 ribbing. This cast on sort of looks like a tubular cast on, but is MUCH easier to do.
The Open/Closed Cast on (aka Estonian cast on)--yet another version of long tail, that is suitable for 1 X 1, or 2 X 2 ribbing. I suspect it would work with any multiple of 2 (4 X 2, 4 X 4, etc)--though I haven't tried them all out. It is not suitable for uneven ribbing patterns like 3 X 1, or 5 X 1.
The tubular cast on belongs on this list, too. I think this cast on is only suitable for 1 by 1 ribbing, but people have used it for 2 by 2. I don't like it for 2 by 2, and don't teach this. (It's MY web page and blog, and you get MY opinion!)
The double knot (aka button hole, aka Guersey, aka Jeny's) is excellent for ribbing: I think it looks best with 1 X 1--but that is just my opinion.
Other Cast ons can be created by combining elements of other cast ons, to create unique variations, like:
Twisted long tail with a twisted basestitch--a cast on that combines elements of the Austrian (twisted stitch) long tail cast
on with elements of the Chinese Long Tail cast on.. This cast on will create ribbing from the cast on edge, and the ribbed stitches will be twisted. NEW
Back to LIST
Cast Ons can be ornamental.
For example, cast on (Knit method) 10 stitches, (or some other number)
turn work and work a bobble in stitch 10, (make bobble small or large)
when the bobble is complete, turn the work back and continue casting on,
(cast on 10 more stitches and repeat bobble)
The sturdy cast on --Cast on 2(knit or long tail method). Bind off 1, (1 stitch cast on) Repeat.(this cast on is demo'd in a video for the simple cast on method only--but it can be used with long tail, too. The Long tail version is less stretchy.
There is a video demo of this cast on, using the Knit Cast on. This cast on has a YO variation.
On R1 of the work, put a YO between each cast on stitchto create a strong but open cast on edge. This cast on is not the stretchiest--but it is very sturdy.
For other ideas for edgingSee Nicky Epstein's book(s) Knitting On the Edge. Her other edging books, Knitting Over the Edge, and Knitting Beyond the Edge have other often larger and more involved edging ideas, the first book has more simple and basic edgingsbut don't think they simple and basic means boring.
Provisional cast ons can be finished with a standard bind off, (to have matching edges), with a fancy bind off (picot, or a simple hem, or a picot hem) or with knit on edgings-- either edges that are knit down, or edgings that are knit across.
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Forward to Cast Ons Part 2
Forward to Cast on Gallery
Forward to Bind Offs (under constructions.)
Forward to Selvage Stitches (this page is still under construction)
Subpages (4): Basic Bind Off's Cast On Reference List Cast Ons Part 2 Selvage Stitches
Cast Ons Part 2
I am not sure exactly when I became slightly obsessed with learning ALL the methods for casting on that I couldCertainly, it was more than 10 years ago.
Since then, at least 3 new cast ons have been created:
Judy' Magic, Tilly's Knit and YO cast on and my Double Chain--and more made themselves known to me in 1013.
With so many new knitters (and old!) I am sure there will be yet more methodscreated, reworked or remembered and the list will grow.
Why are there so many cast ons? I don't know! But what I think is: A knitter for some reason stops knitting for a while, or finds themselves in isolation (from other knitters) and while they remember how to knit and purl (any finished object contains thousand of knits and purls)--they forget exactly how to cast on.
In an attempt to remember/recreate the cast on they first learnedthey make a mistakebut one that worksand a new cast on is invented. Similarly, a cast on that favors right hand yarn holding knitters might be reworked for left hand yarn holding knitters, or visa versa.
The history of knitting is wide and vast, and at various times knitting was fine work (for clergy or royalty) and at other times and places, knitting was the cheapest method of creating clothing for poor working people. Knitting was done professionally (in guilds) and as a work at home scheme for the largely uneducated poor.
These different requirements, purposes and styles of knitting, are, I am sure another factor in the number of different cast on methods.
Some Cast ons (the Turkish, or the Norwegian or the Channel Island cast on) betray geographic histories, --which might be realor just fanciful place names--the double knotted cast on was taught to me by a Russian woman who claimed it to be a Russian cast onbut the same cast on is also called the buttonhole cast on!
Certainly, different cast on methods have different characteristicsWhile all cast ons can be worked tight (and be inelastic) almost all cast ons can be worked loose and provide plenty of stretchiness. There are differences in cast on methods--but I don't think any single cast on is superior to all the other.
Still some cast ons are all to easy to work tight (which can sometimes be desirable) and some cast ons are almost impossible to work tight, and retain a good deal of elasticity, no matter how tightly worked.
I don't think that any one cast on is perfect for every application. Lace needs the simplest and lightest cast on, children's or men's work sweaters need a strong, durable cast cast on. I think hats and neck bands of top down sweaters need very attractive cast ons (stretchy, too) and sock need the stretchiest cast ons!
Personally, I think a good knitter should know a half dozen basic cast ons:
A single yarn, (knit)
A double yarn, (Long Tail)
A provisional method, (crochet)
An eyelet, (dissapearing loop)
An invisible method, (tubular)
An attractive or decorative cast on(Channel Island or a Braided cast on)
The cast ons suggested--are just that--suggestion--I think, in the end, every knitter should chose for themselves. Knowing a full dozen different methods is not unreasonable--But--this is just my opinion!
Different cast ons do have different characteristicsthe more cast ons known, the easier it becomes to chose the best method for the project at hand.
My recommendation is always: Learn a few. Make a sampler of cast on methods, DECIDE for your self which cast on is best for your project.
Making a Cast On Sampler
Making a sampler of cast ons is an easy way to learn a cast on, and to be able to compare it to other cast ons.
Start with a single skein of worsted weight yarnin a medium color- not to dark, not to light: a pair of needles suited to the yarn, a stitch holder (or single DPN) some tags, and 1 or more reference sources.
Start by casting on 20 to 22 stitches. Use a cast on you know. After the cast on, work about 1 inch of ribbing (if you prefer 1 X 1 use that, if you prefer 2 X 2 , use that)
Then work about 1 inch of stocking knithere is a good place to try out a selvage stitch, tooand make your sampler serve a double duty!
Then, for the last right side row, knit your sampler onto the dpn or stitch holder. So the last row worked) is a wrong side row. Break/cut the yarn.
Finallytake one of the labels, and label the cast on.
Start againusing a different cast on, and an inch of ribbing. Then, join the first cast on to the second. Hold the two pieces of knitting together in left handsort of how you'd hold 2 needles for a 3 needle bind off--only don't bind off. Just knit the 2 pieces together.
The first cast on swatch should be in back the newer one in front. Knit them together, (knit stitch 1 of front swatch with stitch 1 of back swatch.) Repeat with stitch 2 and all the stitches across the row.
Then add another inch of stocking knit, with a second selvage stitch. When you've worked about an inch, and have just completed a right side row, once again knit the swatch on to the DPN, and so the swatch ends with a wrong side row. Break/cut yarn, label the second swatch, and start again with Cast on 3--
Repeat again and again making the sampler as long as you'd like-- You can organize the cast onsone sampler for single yarn cast ons; one for double yarn cast ons; one sampler for decorative cast ons--or any way that makes sense for you.
Don't forget to add extra information to the back of the taginfo to include might be:
--basic directions,
--the name and page of the reference book you've used
--or the URL to the on line video
The sampler can be made in a single sitting, or over a weekend, or over a couple of months.
Learn at your own pace. Don't expect to remember or be skilled at cast on with a single use- which is why its good to add information to the labela quick resource for you to refresh your memory.
The BEST way to know which cast on is best for any given project is for YOU, the knitter to decide!
Basic Bind Off's
Bind Offs
(video links now slowly being added)
While there are any number of ways to Cast on, there are, to my knowledge, there are far fewer ways to bind or cast offbut there are still more ways to bind off than you might think!
Standard Bind Off--As a Knit, As a Purl, As a Knit and Purl (this video has all three methods)
This is the most common bind off:
1--As worked in KNITS: K1 *K1, pass first knit stitch over just knit stitch, K1. Repeat from * till there are no more stitches to knit, cut or break yarn, pass tail of yarn through last knit stitch loop and pull closed.
2--As worked in Purls: This bind off can also be worked as Purl 1, *Purl 1, Pass the first stitch worked over the second.
3--As worked in a combination of Knits and Purls: Finally, this bind off can be worked as K1, P1 pass the first stitch worked over the second--a minor variation is to work the bind off in pattern (K1, K1--then P1, P1 for example when binding off 2 X 2 ribbing
The Standard Bind off, and all the variations of the basic bind off, result in a chain stitch edge.
This edge will roll to front if worked in knit stitches, and to the back--if worked in purl stitches, and will not roll when worked in alternating knits and purls.
Variation of the Basic Bind off include:
Standard Bind off, worked with a Crochet hook (this video has all three methods)
Identical to the standard bind off, this bind off is worked with a crochet hook in right hand. The hook can be the same size, or slightly larger. It is a bit easier to work the bind off loosely using this method.This bind off can be done as Knit, Purl or a combination of knits and purls
Standard Bind off Worked as 2tog.
1-Tunisian --Knit 2tog bind off
K2tog, return stitch to left needle, and repeat. this bind off is less stretchy than most. It's a good choice for back neck and shoulder edges, or for pockets, where it can act as a 'stay stitch' and prevent stretching. It is very easy to pick up stitches from this bind off.
2-Knit and purl together
This bind off is familiar to many Combo style knitters, who often use a variation of the knit 2 together bind off (that looks/is identical to a stand bind off--and not at all like the Tunisian Bind off. This bind off has a bit of a twist.. and might take a few minutes to master, but I think it is generally fast than the standard K1, K1, pass the first stitch over bind off.
3-Purl 2 together--also known as a Russian Bind Off
* P2tog tbl, return the resulting stitch to left needle --stretching the stitch (loosening tension) on it as you do so. Repeat from *, till there are no more stitches to knit, cut or break yarn, pass tail of yarn through last knit stitch loop and pull closed.
3Needle Bind Off
With a three needle bind off, 2 pieces of knitting are held parallel, (right sides face, or wrong sides facing--depending on desired finished effect) in the left hand.
The 2 pieces of knitting are JOINED together, and bound off at the same time. Both pieces of knitting must have an equal number of stitches, such as shoulder seams in a sweater
To bind off using the 3 needle bind off: make a stitch by working the first stitch from front piece and the first stitch of back piece of knitting together. *Make the next stitch the same way, and then pass the first stitch over the second, (as in standard knitting)
A 3 needle bind off can be done with the RIGHT (out/public) side of the work facing (and the bind off will be on the wrong side of the work) or with the WRONG (inside) facing each other, and the bind off will create a raised row of chain stitches on the RIGHT(out/public) side of the work. This can be particularly attractive for joining panels of knittingfor sweaters or for hats, or for panelled afghans.
It is shown in worked with KNITS, but like a standard bind off, it can be worked in Knits and Purls, and the bind off will stand proud instead of rolling to front or back
Picot Bind Off (s) there are several methods to create picots--all with separate videos.
There are several ways to create a picot bind off. MOST of them are variations of the standard bind off, and can be worked with knitting needles or with a crochet hook.
Basically the Picot Bind Off is created by binding a number of stitches (2 to 5), then casting on a number of stitches. (2 to 5) then bind off the newly created stitches plus some more, and repeat.
This person suggests-using a cable cast on. I think small (2 or 3 stitch picots) look best.. but huge ones --made with bulky yarn can create an interesting edge.
Most picot bind offs looks best when numbers are paired and consistent --bind off 3, *cast on 3, bind off 3 just cast on, Plus 3 more.(6 bound off) repeat from *.
This video demo's a super picot (3 sets of cast on/bind off).. These picot almost make an edge.
A Picot Bind Off done with a Knit cast on..
Crochet Bind off with a Picot Another style of a picot bind off uses a crochet hook in the right hand (not a knitting needle) bind off X, chain 2 (or 3). Crochet together last chain stitch with last bound off stitch, (to make a small open loop picot) continue bind off. A nice detail is to make sure the picots are centered --even if you have to do 1 or 2 more (or fewer) plain bind off stitches at the beginning and end of the row.
Bobble Bind Off Beyond the picot, is a bobble bind off.. a standard bind off, with bobble stitches worked in the edge.
Nicky Epstein in her book Knitting on the Edge, shows a bobble cast on, that matches.
Super Stretchy bind offs
Lori's Twisted Stitch bind off--another variation of the basic bind off.. But just as twists add stretch to cast on, the twisted stitches in this bind off make it stretcher--and less likely to roll either to front or back This bind off is excellent for ribbing. There is a second video, with a demo for working this bind off for English/right hand yarn hold. NEW
Lacy Bind off
Jeny's Super Stretch Bind off
Other bind offs that use YO's
Dolly's Mock I-Cord bind off --Another double chain bind off that matches her double chain cast on--bind off starts at about 6:50)
Helen's Double chain bind off (similar, but not as stretchy)
The Icelandic Bind Off
Almost a standard bind off--but with a twist or too. it creates a interesting edge--there is another way of working this bind off--which is the Out of Order bind off.
Sewn Bind Offs
EZs sewn/back stitch bind off--to match a standard long tail
A sewn bind off is the closest in appearance to Long Tail cast on. Its done by sewing a form of a back or double stitchwhich is 2 stitches forward, 1 stitch back.
1-After working last row, cut yarn, leaving a tail at least 3 times longer than edge to be bound off. --a 20 inch length of knitting will need about 60 inches (+) of yarn.) Thread tail onto tapestry needle.
2-Pass tapestry needle through Stitch 1 and Stitch 2 on needle, placing the tapestry needle as if to purl, gently pull yarn through.
3--Then pass the needle through the first stitch on needle, as if to knit, and let the first stitch fall off needle
4-Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the new stitch 1 and 2.
If working in the round, a stitch marker in the first stitch dropped is helpfulthe last stitch bound off can be sewn together with the first to make a jogless finish.
Here is a link to a still photo tutorial...
Tubular or Grafted Bind Off
Particularly suited for 1 X 1 ribbing, a tubular bind off is identical in appearance to a tubular cast on.
To enhance the tubular appearance, work 2 or more rows of simple double knitting before grafting.
Simple double knitting is normal worked over an even number of stitches:
* K1, bring yarn forward (as if to purl), slip 1, bring the yarn back (as if to knit) repeat from * (pattern is worked the same on all rows.)
When worked on odd number of stitches, end with a K1, and on row 2, start with a slip stitch and end with a slip stitch.
The grafted bind off can be done 2 way:
1Divide the work in the last round of simple double knitting so that half the stitches are on 1 needle and half are on a second needle. Then follow a standard directions for grafting
2The grafting can be done without dividing the worksee this Video for directions.
Halfgrafting (a WEBS video)can create a seamless lookbut provide more support and have less stretch than a grafted seam. The back shoulder of a knitted lace sweater can be bound offto provide a sturdy, not to stretching edgethe front shoulders can then be grafted to the bound off stitches. This will create a seamless look with more support, and a less stretchy shoulder seam.
Sewn, To Match Latvian (aka Open/Closed loop) Long Tail
This Video is short, and not the best, but.... It shows how to do a Sewn bind off to match this popular cast on.
Drawstring Bind Off
Cut yarn, leaving a tail of 6 or more inches
Thread tail onto tapestry needle and starting at stitch 1, pass tapestry needle through every stitch. Repeat once. Then working slowly and gently pull drawstring tight, (knot) and weave in tail.
All bind off methods run the risk of being tighter than the rows of knitting that proceed. But this is especially true for knitted bind offs.
If you have trouble keeping your bind off loose and stretchy, try using a right hand needle (for Standard, Russian or crocheted bind off) that is 2 or 3 sizes larger than the needle used for the knitting. Or replace the right hand needle with a crochet hook.
An Alternate to binding off use one An EDGING
Many laces are not bound off at all (in the conventional sense) but are finished by knitting on edging. The outer edge of the lace forms the bound off edge, on the inner edge, the last stitch of the edging pattern is a K(or P)2 tog, that eliminates the live stitch.
The simplest edging is I-cord.
--Finish last row of knitting, cast on 3 (use simple, knit or cable cast on) then using a single DPN in right hand, (usually 1 to 2 sizes larger than size use to knit the piece), *K 2, then K2tog.
Slip these stitches to main needle and repeat from * until all stitches have been bound off, and only 3 I-cord stitches remain. Bind these three stitches off (standard bind off or your choice.)
The i-cord can be larger (cast on 4 or 5 stitches,) but the process is the same--the last stitch of I-cord is knit together with next stitch to be bound off.
The list of edging (besides I-cord) that can be used, fills books.
(see Nicky Epstiens Knitting On the Edge and Knitting Over the Edge for several hundred examples of edgings.)
See Cast on Reference list many of the these cast ons are also available in these books as well.
Note: There tricks and persnickety details to make the last stitch bound off look nicer--Both for flat knitting and when binding off in the round.
The LAST STITCH can sometimes be wonky... a little over sized, and 'fly away' there are solutions.
Here is one
Here is another
Back to Home Page Back to Cast On's Part 1 Back to Cast On's Part 2 Forward to Selvage Stitches
My personal favourite method, and the one I used on my two 99-knitted-squares blankets is Priscilla Hewitt's Flat Braid Joining Method.
If you prefer videos: Flat Braid Joining:
First:
Second:
Third:
Fourth:
And that's from just one videographer! If you search FLAT BRAID JOIN on YouTube, you'll find many more such videos done by others.
NOTE: There's no law dictating that it be used only for joining granny squares. Once you've worked a round of single crochet - odd number - this method can be used on any squares/strips at all, even fabric ones!
First Panel Edging: From RS and working in ends of rows along long side of Panel, join A with sc in end of first row; *ch 5, sk next 3 rows, sc in end of next row; rep from * across long side working last sc in end of last row.
Join Next Panel: From RS, arrange long edge of Second Panel next to edging of First Panel. Join A with sc in end of first row of Second Panel; *ch 2, drop lp from hook, insert hook in 3rd ch of corresponding ch-5 sp of First Panel, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 2, sk next 3 rows of Second Panel, sc in end of next row; rep from * across to join panels and working last sc in end of last row. Work edging along rem long side of Second Panel, in same way as edging was worked on First Panel. Join rem panels in same way.
Skill: Intermediate
Cast On: Multiple of 3 sts. Colors A and B.
Note
Cast on with Color A and knit one row.
Row 1
(Wrong Side) Color B: p3, *sl 1, wyif, p2; rep from *.
Row 2
Color B: k2, *drop next (color A) st off needle to front of work, k2, then with point of left-hand needle pick up dropped st and slip it onto right-hand needle without working; rep from *, end k1.
Row 3
Color A: *p2, sl 1 wyif; rep from *, end p3.
Row 4
Color A: k1, *sl 2 wyib, drop next (color B) st off needle to front of work, sl the same 2 sts back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st onto right-hand needle without working, k2; rep from *, end k2.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have reached your desired length.
Rows 1 and 3: (WS) K2, P6, K2
Row 2: P2, Sl 2 to cable or DPN and hold in front, K2 from left needle, K2 from cable or DPN, K2, P2
Row 4: P2, K2, Sl 2 to cable or DPN and hold in back, K2 from left needle, K2 from cable or DPN, P2
k = knit
p = purl
yo = yarn over
ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches tog. A decrease.
c6b = (cable 6 back)- slip 3 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
Cast on multiples of 10
Row 1: p1, k2, yo, ssk, k4, p1
Row 2 and all even rows: k1, p8, k1
Row 3: p1, k3, yo, ssk, k3, p1
Row 5: p1, k4, yo, ssk, k2, p1
Row 7: p1, k5, yo, ssk, k1, p1
Row 9: p1, c6b, yo, ssk, p1
10 rows make up pattern.
Ray of honey -
Skill: Easy
Cast On: Multiples of 4
For this pattern you will need to know the following techniques:
Purl p
Twist Two Back T2B
Twist Two Front T2F
Pattern:
Row 1 (RS): *T2B, T2F; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: *T2F, T2B; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl
Repeat rows 1 4 until you have reached your desired length.
From Designer1234 collection
CAST ON INFORMATION SHEET.
LOOK HERE FOR MANY DIFFERENT CAST ONS AND BIND OFF METHODS. IMPORTANT!!
from LaurieJanesplace - KP member
There is a "better" cast on for every type of project
including ribbing if someone really wants better -
match your cast on to the project.
----------------------------------
Backwards Loop Cast-On
This is a very simple cast-on (it's also called the
Child's Cast-On, used for teaching children how
to knit), and, while it doesn't leave the sturdiest
or nicest edge (which is why I don't use it all the
time), it does have one key factor going for it:
it only uses one strand of yarn.
This means that you can use it to ADD 5 or 8
more stitches to your cast-on using just your
working yarn without having to rip the whole
thing out and measure out more tail.
----------------------------------------
Best garter stitch bind off
ever
The edge of this cast on will always look and
remain firm. The first row worked after the
cast on is a right side row.
Benefits
Can be used for casting on stitches with
work in progress
a.Can be used for some button holes
b.Works well with dense stitch patterns that
dont have much stretch
c.Creates an edge with a neat uniform
appearance when executed with even tension
d.Works well with all weights of yarn
Can be used for all cast on edges: be
careful not to work to tightly.
Drawbacks
a.Cast on is not very elastic and tends to be firm
and dense but that may be desirable.
b.Easy to work cast on too tightly
c.Edge of cast on will be tight, but the stitches on the needle will appear loose. Knit into back of stitch to tighten on next row.
d.Cast-on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat: it will roll toward the knit side.
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crochet cast on loose not very stable (may be used for provisional cast on)
Eastern method of casting on in a closed tube for double knitting
Eastern method of casting on in a closed tube for double knitting
Double knitting 2 socks tutorial pt 1 of 3
Double knitting 2 socks tutorial pt 1 of 3
knitted bind-off: Crochet cast-on to match knitted bind-off:
This video knitting tutorial will help you learn how to knit the guernsey cast on. This method of starting a project is a decorative cast on traditionally used when making Guernsey sweaters. It consists of a series of knots connected by short strands of yarn that make small eyelets along the edge of your work
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I cord Cast on
This is a very common cast on because it feels like normal knitting. It varies just slightly from the cable cast on but the effect is quite different. The looser edge created at the bottom sometimes gets slightly distorted near the edges where the seams are put toether. The traditional bind off is the best match.
PROS
a.Easy to remember
b.Can be used to start any project, or to add stitches with knitting in progress
c.Fairly elastic; size of stitches can be controlled easily.
d.Works well with all weights of yarn.
e.Both sides look exactly the same, so it doesnt matter what row you work first when beginning to knit.
Cons
a.Can stretch our of shape easily if done too loosely.
b.First row of knitting will look loose and appear to have holes.
Knit into the back of the stitches (on the first row worked after cast on only) to tighten them up and close the holes.
c.Cast on edge tends to be loose and can snag easily or pull out of shape. Cast on with a smaller needle to eliminate this problem.
d.Cast on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat; it will roll toward the knit side.
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Emily Ocker's Cast On
For circular shawls EZ
Grandma's Favorite Bind Off (Loose Bind Off)
Grandma's Favorite Bind Off (Loose Bind Off)
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Liat's Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-a-Time ANYTHING!
Liat's Limitless Cast-On for Two-at-a-Time ANYTHING!
video
Long Tail Cast on
AKA
Double cast on/
Continental cast on/
Sling shot/
Two strand/
Y cast on
Knit Long Tail cast on onto two needles held together
Long tail cast on tips Part 1
Long Tail cast on tips Part 2
Long tail Cast on or Sling shot cast on
This is the most common and versatile (useful) cast on used by knitsters
The result is a nice looking edge if the cast on row is used as the right side and the first row worked is a wrong-side row. For a bind off that matches use traditional bind off.
Benefits
a.Can be used to start virtually any knitting project.
b.Easy to execute, but tension must be controlled.
c.Two ways to work cast on: slingshot method and thumb method.
d.Works well with all weights of yarn.
Drawbacks
a.Requires long enough tail to work the cast on: if you run out you have to start over
b.Correct placement of the yarn in your fingers is essential.
c.Easy to work this cast on too tightly.
d.Cast on edge, followed by stockinette stitch, will not lie flat; it roll toward the knit side.
✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨
Do your setup:
Front: Put needle in opposite the direction of the stitch (put it in knitwise if you see a purl stitch on the needle, or purlwise if it's a knit) and leave the stitch on the needle
Back: do the same
From then on -
Front:
1) put needle in the direction of the stitch presented & remove stitch from needle
2) put needle in opposite direction of the stitch presented & leave stitch on needle
Back: do the same darned thing.
✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨*.¸¸.✶*¨`*.✫*¨
Keeping one side open
But wait! If we do it this way, we'll have a lovely double thick piece of fabric -- with two closed sides! That's fine if want to stuff it for a pillow or something, but for a pocket you'd have to turn the piece on it's side, and use what is now the top as the side of the pocket into which one slips ones hand. But what if you wanted the SIDE to be the entrance to the pocket? A side entrance would give you a nice firm bottom edge. (Not to mention a one-to-one ratio for sewing up the seam. I like one-to-one ratios.).' So... I at least want one side of this square to be open while the other side is closed. There is a way to do that.
Let's go with the knit side out option for both sides. Rows 1 and 2 stay the same. Rows 3 and 4 have to be different.
Row 1: (sl 1 with yarn in front, knit one) repeat.
Row 2: (sl 1 with yarn in front, knit one) repeat. (or, if you're going for the purl look, sl1, p1)
Row 3: (p1, sl 1 with yarn in back) repeat. (or, if you're going for the purl look, k1, sl1)
Row 4: (p1, sl 1 with yarn in back) repeat.
Repeat these four rows (being careful to hold the yarn so that it will run between the fabrics you're making) until your pocket is large enough and you'll have the open side to work with..
Open a row
You have three options: cut a stitch and unravel; pull a thread, cut and gently pull apart; or cut the fabric and unravel back to a clean row. You can open a whole row, or just part.
Cut a stitch (more controlled, recommended for small areas and opening just part of a row):
Find one thread at the centre of the area to be opened and snip it.
Unravel in each direction as far as is required.
Pull a thread (less controlled, recommended for opening a whole row; might be difficult with stiff or weak fabrics; be prepared to unravel a couple of rows):
Insert a needle into the head of one stitch and pull so the whole width of the fabric gathers up.
Cut the yarn next to the fabric and then ease the fabric to its normal width.
The two pieces should come apart cleanly.
Unravel any stitches at the ends of the row manually (as 'cut a stitch').
You can cut a stitch at one edge of the fabric, and then pull the thread from the other edge, but be careful not to stray from the correct row!
Cut fabric (less controlled and messy; be prepared to unravel a few rows):
Cut fabric a few cm longer than required; try to cut perfectly horizontally.
Get rid of the short cut bits of thread to expose the open stitches.
Unravel a couple of rows to get a clean row.
Pick up open stitches
If you are ready to knit the stitches:
Slide the exposed loops onto a needle, making sure they aren't twisted.
If you do twist them by mistake, you can fix this on your first row by working into the back of the twisted stitches.
Think about whether you want your first row to be on the right or wrong side, and pick up accordingly. A double pointed or circular needle can be handy if you're not sure!
Don't panic if a stitch starts to run - you can reform the stitches using a crochet hook or latch tool (see 'ladder and reform', below).
It may help to unravel a row, stitch by stitch, whilst picking up the stitches from the row below.
If the stitches are not to be knitted immediately:
Hold them safe using a spare thread in a contrasting colour, stitched through each loop from front to back.
Alternatively, they could be picked up and held safe on a needle or stitch holder.
Pick up through knit
Stitches can be picked up at a cast on or cast off edge, or along a horizontal row within the knitting.
They can also be picked up at a selvedge or curved edge, or in a straight or curved line within the knitting.
There are several ways of picking up stitches. For instructions, see a resource such as The Handknitter's Handbook (p188-91).
An alternative method is to sew through the fabric to make a row of stitches that can be knitted (or crocheted). For instructions, see Make Do and Mend by the Ministry of Information (p50-1).
Knit / crochet
This is the most open of all the steps! A couple of tips:
Knitting off open stitches:
It is straightforward to knit off open stitches in the same direction as the fabric was originally knitted.
You can knit off open stitches in the opposite direction, but only stocking stitch will appear unbroken. Ribs or other complex structures will be half a stitch out of line all along the row. Changing stitch pattern, or using a decorative transition, will avoid this problem.
There's a great explanation of this in Elizabeth Zimmermann's Knitter's Almanac (p137).
Selvedges:
If might be a good idea to plan how you're going to sew up your garment, and choose an appropriate selvedge.
You can find guidance on selvedges (p181-6) and seams (245-56) in The Handknitter's Handbook.