LETS DESIGN OUR OWN CARDIGAN OR PULLOVER - designer 12343
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Ooh...a variegated yoke and solid dark bottom would look great! It would also widen the shoulders and shrink the hips!
The fires are getting closer. Was just watching the news, there fires on the west side outskirts of Houston, almost to Katy. There's also some up north around Huntsville that they say are moving south rapidly. We can see the smoke in the clouds getting worse every day.
????question???? Since I usually work a chain selvedge when knitting anything that's not diagonal, would that hinder in this design. I love how easy it is to pick up stitches from it.
I do my chain selvedge: slip first stitch every row, and knit last stitch every row.
I'm about to start and am wondering if you could talk about doing the short row shaping. I know how to do it, but what I don't know is how long to make the short rows, how often to repeat the short rows, etc. I've used them for shaping before, but it was always as part of the instructions for something.
****answer**** chain selvedge
I did this with my last one and it was easier to pick up the yoke stitches- I found it is quite smooth as you say. You will still have to adjust your stitch numbers as your rows are narrower than
your stitches. as mentioned previously - I pick up 3 and miss one when I am casting on to the side edge of a knitted piece. It is something each of us will have to check out as our knitting varies from one person to another. Some books say knit 3 -miss one row, others say knit 4 miss one and another says knit 2 miss one. The knit 3 miss one works very well for me - the main thing is you want your yoke to be
nice and flat and the same size as your bottom.
I didn't think about slipping that first stitch for easy pick up stitches. Would it look funny if I started doing that now? I'm about 6" along on the back.
****answer***** short row shaping. (adding width to the bottom). If you are only a small bit larger at the bottom, go with the bottom width which you have been working on -- it is a drop sleeve and it is only if there is a big difference that it requires adjusting -- I have only adjusted one cardigan just to see how I would do it -- my green coat went straight up from the bottom - and it worked out well.
Don't be too sparing of your width if you are larger - you want it to sit nicely on your hips and you want to have a fair bit of slack - both with the cardigan and also with the pullover --there is a difference of a couple of inches from my hips to my bust and the first sweaters worked out well so it is only if there is a really big difference -- I think it would be more important in the bust if it is larger than your hips.
However it depends on how much wider you want the bottom - therefore how many rows you need to add (for all four pieces (front sides and back sides) you have to add on each side seam so that it balances. I started at the bottom and knit up to just above the waist (about 5 - 6 inches down from the under arm)- knit back down to the bottom and then up again to 4 - 6 stitches above where I stopped the previous time, back to the bottom and then knitted all the way to the top and added the number of rows (only 2 or three) to make the width I wanted.
I am not sure whether this is the way short rows are made as I have never done them, but this worked. I figure things out as I go along as I am completely self taught - I am sure you all will know easier ways - this class is to show you how to put a sweater together - you will use your knowledge to do it the way that works for you, although for this sweater - I would like you to follow along fairly closely - but the technique for doing what is needed might differ from the way I do it. I would appreciate it very much if you have an easy way to do any of these
procedures - that you let us know . (me included)!!
Just make sure that you don't leave a hole where the addition occurs. It helps by twisting the stitch when you knit past the increase like we do in socks along the gusset. (pick up the stitch knitwise in the back at the back of the next stitch if you are on a knit row) If this is confusing -- take the stitch off your left hand needle and turn it around -put it on your left hand needle - then knit it. it will twist the stitch -- you might need to do this twice. One time worked for me for each added row.
If you want your bust to be bigger than your hips I would think you would pick up extra rows at the top of your cast on rows. It can't be too different than the edge see my above answer-- my friend who is 'busty' cast on with the same size needle as the bottom, then changed to a larger needle after she had done a couple of rows. (when we get to casting on the yoke we will do 3 rows in( purl one row,knit one row), twice -
I would think you could add on a few stitches at the outside edge (arm edge) although you would have to try to increase without it showing too much - quite possibly it would be better to increase say 4 stitches over the whole back and 2 on each front across the area being knit, (this is just a guess as to the number) you will have to figure out how many inches you want to add -- it can't be too many or it will be off kilter.
We will worry about that when we are finished our bottom pieces and are doing our yoke cast ons.
The yoke will be a bit more complicated as we have to do the neck stitches as well and cast off for the neck on the two fronts.
I don't worry about my yoke until my backs are correct -I never know what I am going to do until I get there. Try to look at it that way -- I know it is hard if you are very precise and a 'pattern follower' but this could open a lot of interesting knitting for you!- and you are going to be able to design a sweater using your choices of yarn, and stitches o n y o u r
o w n !!!!!!
:thumbup: :-P :-D
So excited got my yarn today and going to be swatching this afternoon. A friend is coming over to help me get the measurements correct!!!
****answer****I didn't think about slipping that first stitch for easy pick up stitches. Would it look funny if I started doing that now? "
I don't really think it will be a problem as when we cast on our yoke stitches I always start with a purl row on the right side and knit row on the wrong side and do it at least twice. It helps to make it look professional as when we pick up from the side stitches it can be untidy - this solves the problem. I can't see how it will matter -- Mark down in your notebook if you do ,so that you will notice whether you have to adjust a bit - can't see where it would be troublesome when we will have our purl ridge at the bottom of the yoke though. These are the things we have to 'go for it' grin -- actually, I have done very little frogging as I usually make it work -- (don't be afraid to try something new if you do run into a problem . There usually is a way to do it so it doesn't affect the look of the sweater.
I want you all to feel optimistic and know that if you think about it there IS an answer to the problems you run into. Just write down what you do ,because if you don't do that - you might not remember exactly how you solved the problem. That is why I know that there must be a way to knit the bottoms in the round for a pullover and with just one separation in the cardigan -- I just have never tried it. So for this one we will go with what I know but I have been thinking about it ever since the subject came up- grin. One of you girls will likely figure it out before I do -- and we will keep this forum open in the future as each of us solves problems.
It is so much fun to do something on your own and figure out a problem so that it works - and finish with a lovely sweater. I am still always surprised at what I accomplish -- nothing beats the feeling that t h i s i s my o r i g i n a l s w e a t e r - no one else has made one exactly the same. I want you all to be willing to try your ideas -- most will work if you have any experience -- once in awhile it won't work, but it is something you learn as you go along. so much fun -- For your first one this technique will give you a base to work from -- then it is the sky is the limit.
I am having so much fun with this class! A lot of you are better knitters than I am -- it is the designing that worries people and that is the thing that doesn't worry me - so hopefully we can learn from each other! designer1234 (Shirley)
You girls must be doing well as there are no questions!!!!
It would be great if you posted if you have started your backs so that I can get an idea of how many are with us . There were lots of signups so I hope a goodly number will join in.
Hope to hear from you! don't forget to let me know if you have a problem. The backs are very straightforward and easy. It is a bit more complicated when we start our yokes as we have the neck line to worry about. We will start them when I know a few of your are finished your backs. Shirley
Hi Shirley, I have started the bottom and am doing it in one piece. I have experience knitting in the round and have given some thought to how one would accomplish this design in the round. I do not see that it would work well with verticle stripes. One would have to use intarsia or jarquard technigues. It would by easier to flat knit vertical stripes horizontially. It is pretty straight forward to knit the bottom in one piece for the cardigan by knitting the striped bottom until it goes all the way around. Then join to the yoke in the same way as if there were three pieces. I would place markers at 1/4th the way around and at 3/4th the way around and at the center back to aid in picking up the stiches for the yoke to make sure that the yoke is even around. The pullover would use a provisional cast-on then knit the same as one piece. Then remove the provisional cast-on and graft (or weave or Kitchener stitch) to join them together. Somethings work well knit flat and others do well knit in the round. I agree each knitter uses what works best for them. I hope that this is helpful. Archer
i have the most stupid of questions, i have read and reread the directions and guess I am blind, the sweater bottom is knitted in st st correct?
Thank you know you got a laugh out of that one.
Thanks for letting me know. I have only used this design in flat pieces and so I am afraid you are on your own as far as working the yoke on. I am glad you are going to give it a go.
As this 'class' is a 'coat of many colors with vertical stripes'
I think if anyone wants that effect they should do it in the flat. If you want something different, then you can do Archer's design. I want you to learn
to innovate and felt that starting with the basic flat method would be the easiest way as this works up very well.
I will be interested in seeing how you do it. DEE KNITS-- you should check out Archer's ideas. I am going to bookmark her information and try and do one later on. I am starting a neck down cardi in the round and will use one color for the yoke and possibly change to another color when I reach under the arm after transferring the sleeve stitches to a holding needle. I am thinking of
doing a 'pattern' rather than a change of color but won't decide that until I get there.
Thanks for the suggestions Archer -- I have taught many basic sweater designs and some of my students have 'run with it' and come up with some wonderful, different designs. It is a matter of actually designing it - and it is sometimes difficult to get past the fear - grin. Shirley
*****straight stitch*** answer
It is not a stupid question at all! I didn't specify so how do you know for sure! Yes, for this first sweater I would suggest a stocking stitch- unless you are really experienced and want to try a patterned stitch -- you have to remember that it will be sideways so the straight stitch (stocking stitch - front row knit, wrong row purl for the whole sweater).
Shirley designer 1234
I can see doing the cardigan in the round, but any stripes would go around instead of up and down. In fact, I have a sweater on the needles now that is done that way. My snag is doing the decreases at the armholes as I work up towards the shoulders, I just haven't had the time to sit down with a clear mind and work it out. The direction have you working the front and back separately then joining at the shoulder seams. With your design, with the yoke a separate piece and with drop shoulders, I'm betting it would be very easy to do. Maybe for the 2nd one!
TWISTING THE STITCH: Easiest way is to knit or purl into the BACK LOOP of the stitch. It will twist the stitch. I used to knit/purl into the back of the sts allatime until I learned Continental and "Norwegian" sytems.