I have done a search and read a lot that's been said on KP about blocking acrylic. I also went on line and did a lot of reading. I think I'm more confused than ever because the information is so contradictory. I have 2 things in 100% acrylic yarn that need blocking. One is a child's sweater. The band is in garter stitch and the body is stockinette so the band pulls up. The other item is a multi-directional scarf that puckers somewhat. I'm so afraid of ruining these items. One source says she blocks acrylic by pinning to size, wetting down, blotting and leaving to dry. She says not to get near acrylic with steam or heat but other sources say that her method of blocking doesn't work on acrylic. Another article says not to attempt to block garter stitch. Some say to have a cloth between the acrylic and steam and others do not. One says to keep the iron 10" away while steaming and another says one inch away. I have a steamer (new) that has 2 steam temperatures and of course I have an iron. I would like to hear from those who have successful blocked acrylic, telling me what actually works and is safe. Thank you so much.
Blocking Acrylic
Casey47
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I have done a search and read a lot that's been said on KP about blocking acrylic. I also went on line and did a lot of reading. I think I'm more confused than ever because the information is so contradictory. I have 2 things in 100% acrylic yarn that need blocking. One is a child's sweater. The band is in garter stitch and the body is stockinette so the band pulls up. The other item is a multi-directional scarf that puckers somewhat. I'm so afraid of ruining these items. One source says she blocks acrylic by pinning to size, wetting down, blotting and leaving to dry. She says not to get near acrylic with steam or heat but other sources say that her method of blocking doesn't work on acrylic. Another article says not to attempt to block garter stitch. Some say to have a cloth between the acrylic and steam and others do not. One says to keep the iron 10" away while steaming and another says one inch away. I have a steamer (new) that has 2 steam temperatures and of course I have an iron. I would like to hear from those who have successful blocked acrylic, telling me what actually works and is safe. Thank you so much.
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Well if you want to call it successful ... I do ....
I just wash and dry the item; no need to block my acrylics.
Though I do spray wet the pieces, cover with towel and a heavy object like a book and let dry.
This helps the edges lay flatter to help in the sewing together of the pieces.
I just wash and dry the item; no need to block my acrylics.
Though I do spray wet the pieces, cover with towel and a heavy object like a book and let dry.
This helps the edges lay flatter to help in the sewing together of the pieces.
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I pin a bit, on corners etc or where a little curl and then I put a wet cloth over, a heavy object on top and let it dry. Of course this is on little garments as I rarely do adult pieces. Works for me.
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If the child's sweater has already been assembled or was knit in the round, it need not be blocked, simply washing and drying will even out the stitches.
The scarf I would steam block to get rid of the puckers and can be done with the iron or steamer an inch or so over the knitting. Acrylic can easily be "killed" so practice on a swatch if you can.
The scarf I would steam block to get rid of the puckers and can be done with the iron or steamer an inch or so over the knitting. Acrylic can easily be "killed" so practice on a swatch if you can.
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I'm sure you'll get many differing opinions, but here's mine.
If the yarn is "normal" and smooth (I'm thinking like Super Saver) I do block it. I lay the dry knitted item down, wrong side up, and cover it with a thin cotton cloth (I use an old sheet). I then spray a section of the cloth with water til fairly wet and press with an iron on the permanent press setting. I don't run the iron over the cloth; I just set it down (without pushing down) for a second or so and then lift it up, move it, and repeat, repeating the spraying as needed. I then just leave it to dry. I don't block ribbing at all and probably wouldn't with garter stitch either. It's always worked for me.
If the yarn is "normal" and smooth (I'm thinking like Super Saver) I do block it. I lay the dry knitted item down, wrong side up, and cover it with a thin cotton cloth (I use an old sheet). I then spray a section of the cloth with water til fairly wet and press with an iron on the permanent press setting. I don't run the iron over the cloth; I just set it down (without pushing down) for a second or so and then lift it up, move it, and repeat, repeating the spraying as needed. I then just leave it to dry. I don't block ribbing at all and probably wouldn't with garter stitch either. It's always worked for me.
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I mainly use acrylic -no time for hand washing at this point unfortunately , most acrylics don't need blocking but if I feel an item needs neatening or to prevent curling I lightly steam then leave to cool just be really careful not to touch fabric with iron I would always launder first after which blocking is quite often unnecessary
I wash the item, usually in a lingerie bag, and then dry it flat and pat out the places like your garter stitch band so they are flat. Pin it if it doesn't stay put and let it dry. Or sometimes, I just wash it and throw it in the dryer if it's a hat or scarf or something else that doesn't have to be exactly neat.
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Some pieces curl a lot and the only way to get an acrylic item to lay flat is to "kill" the acrylic which is permanent. Other items just need to be washed and perhaps laid flat to dry. With baby things I normally throw in washer and dryer to see how it will react for the new sleep deprived parents who won't think to pull it out or wash seperate.
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I steam mine with an iron over it after pinning to my board. works well
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Wash and dry first - if it is still not acceptable to you, lay it out and use the lowest setting on your steamer and keep the steam flow an inch or two above the sweater. Use your free hand to pat into shape and let it cool before touching again.
You do not have to worry about "killing" the acrylic yarn unless you burst the steam directly (i.e. touching the garment with the steamer or iron itself) - as long as you keep the steamer moving and do not use excessively high heat you will be just fine.
You do not have to worry about "killing" the acrylic yarn unless you burst the steam directly (i.e. touching the garment with the steamer or iron itself) - as long as you keep the steamer moving and do not use excessively high heat you will be just fine.
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"One is a child's sweater. The band is in garter stitch and the body is stockinette so the band pulls up."
I find that prevention is the best way to deal with this problem. GS rows are shorter than stockinette rows. Every so often I do a short row on the GS portion to even out the length. It works with things like seed stitch too.
I find that prevention is the best way to deal with this problem. GS rows are shorter than stockinette rows. Every so often I do a short row on the GS portion to even out the length. It works with things like seed stitch too.
I contacted www.yarnspirations.com about blocking Caron Simply Soft (acrylic yarn) and this is what they replied
"We do not recommend that you steam the Caron Simply Soft yarn. Blocking is the best way to flatten your rolled edges. Steaming may damage the acrylic fiber. To block a knitted item follow these instructions:
Wet your project and remove any excess water. You want the project to be damp, not soaking wet.
Find a flat, padded, COLORFAST surface thatÂ’s big enough for the project. Loosely lay it out flat with the right side facing up. You can either pin the project pieces, or lay them flat and measure them, to the sizes listed in your pattern. Lay another damp towel on top of the pieces being blocked, leave overnight. Remove the top towel and let the project air dry."
"We do not recommend that you steam the Caron Simply Soft yarn. Blocking is the best way to flatten your rolled edges. Steaming may damage the acrylic fiber. To block a knitted item follow these instructions:
Wet your project and remove any excess water. You want the project to be damp, not soaking wet.
Find a flat, padded, COLORFAST surface thatÂ’s big enough for the project. Loosely lay it out flat with the right side facing up. You can either pin the project pieces, or lay them flat and measure them, to the sizes listed in your pattern. Lay another damp towel on top of the pieces being blocked, leave overnight. Remove the top towel and let the project air dry."
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If and when I need to block acrylic -- This is the way I block my acrylics --- it doesn't matter brand.mrleese said:
I find there is no difference between whether it is a blanket/afghan/throw/rug, or a sweater/hat/pants/scarf/mittens
(or for a baby/toddler/child/teen/adult).
I hardly ever have to block anything when using acrylic.
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I've steam blocked a lot of Caron Simply Soft - it has never damaged it and always turned out great.
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I use the "toss in washer and dryer" method, too. Except, I've found, that I get better results if I only let it get damp-dry in the dryer, then I lay flat to finish drying. Works like a charm!
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I wash and dry all my acrylic items. If I want the item to drape more, I touch it with steam. Watch carefully, you can actually SEE the stitches moving as the steam hits them. When using my steamer, it takes very little time. Stay a few inches away from the item when using the steamer.
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I have a hard time finding natural fibers in my area.. and when I can find them they want way too much money for them.. So I use a lot of acrylic.. I also mostly only knit lace. I have to block it or my work won't show and my shawl will only be the size a child could use..
I wet my project... get as much moisture as I can out of it.. then I use my blocking wires ( I use to use metal skewers before I got my wires
) and I stretch it as much as I possibly can.. I then let it dry. Once it is dry I use my 'Steamer' and steam it.. hard!!! but in stages. Don't attempt to steam the heck out of it all at once. you could melt the fibers. What you are doing with the steam is setting your stitches. You should use your steamer and play around with it until you know what works.. The only time I have heard of putting a piece of material between the steamer and the project is when a 'Clothes Iron' was used.. if you use a iron you will have extra heat from the iron itself... a steamer is just the heat from the steam.. I hope that makes sense
For your items I would pin them flat and the scarf as straight as possible then pass the low temp steam over them both a few times letting them cool and/or dry between steaming.. don't touch them with the steamer it self. I did that once!!! that was all it took.. I got lucky that is was in a spot that didn't show but I know what I did..LOL
I wet my project... get as much moisture as I can out of it.. then I use my blocking wires ( I use to use metal skewers before I got my wires
) and I stretch it as much as I possibly can.. I then let it dry. Once it is dry I use my 'Steamer' and steam it.. hard!!! but in stages. Don't attempt to steam the heck out of it all at once. you could melt the fibers. What you are doing with the steam is setting your stitches. You should use your steamer and play around with it until you know what works.. The only time I have heard of putting a piece of material between the steamer and the project is when a 'Clothes Iron' was used.. if you use a iron you will have extra heat from the iron itself... a steamer is just the heat from the steam.. I hope that makes sense For your items I would pin them flat and the scarf as straight as possible then pass the low temp steam over them both a few times letting them cool and/or dry between steaming.. don't touch them with the steamer it self. I did that once!!! that was all it took.. I got lucky that is was in a spot that didn't show but I know what I did..LOL
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