Has anyone done a 2-stitch i-cord bind off? Is it even a thing? I am putting a seed stitch border of about 2 inches on the knitterati gradient lapghan and am thinking about finishing it off with the i-cord bind off, but the 3-stitch seems a bit heavy for the border.
Yes, often.... it is just enough to make a nice edge.
I have done a provisional cast on and done it on the sides as I work and then bind off with it and go back and do it on the cast on end.
Yes, often.... it is just enough to make a nice edge.
I have done a provisional cast on and done it on the sides as I work and then bind off with it and go back and do it on the cast on end.
There's a bind-off that makes a very thin edge that looks a lot like I-cord. It's called the Icelandic bind-off. It's stretchier than most bind-offs, but doesn't tend to make the edge flare unless you use a stitch that really tends to draw in from side-to-side.
It has a cast-on that matches pretty well called the Old Norwegian cast on, or German twisted cast-on.
It's a long-tail cast-on, and it twists the tail yarn an extra time around each cast-on stitch. This makes a cast-on that matches the bind-off in stretchiness, too, without flaring out. But the important thing to understand about this is that it requires a lot more yarn in the tail. I usually allow about twice as much.
Your cast-on and bind-off can do a lot to make your work look exquisitely hand-crafted instead of homemade.
There's a bind-off that makes a very thin edge that looks a lot like I-cord. It's called the Icelandic bind-off. It's stretchier than most bind-offs, but doesn't tend to make the edge flare unless you use a stitch that really tends to draw in from side-to-side.
It has a cast-on that matches pretty well called the Old Norwegian cast on, or German twisted cast-on.
It's a long-tail cast-on, and it twists the tail yarn an extra time around each cast-on stitch. This makes a cast-on that matches the bind-off in stretchiness, too, without flaring out. But the important thing to understand about this is that it requires a lot more yarn in the tail. I usually allow about twice as much.
Your cast-on and bind-off can do a lot to make your work look exquisitely hand-crafted instead of homemade.
You might want to knit a swatch (or swatches) and try both bind-offs. You'll probably have a preference for one or the other depending on how easy it is to make one vs. the other, and/or how the finished bind-off looks.
You might want to knit a swatch (or swatches) and try both bind-offs. You'll probably have a preference for one or the other depending on how easy it is to make one vs. the other, and/or how the finished bind-off looks.
There's a bind-off that makes a very thin edge that looks a lot like I-cord. It's called the Icelandic bind-off. It's stretchier than most bind-offs, but doesn't tend to make the edge flare unless you use a stitch that really tends to draw in from side-to-side.
It has a cast-on that matches pretty well called the Old Norwegian cast on, or German twisted cast-on.
It's a long-tail cast-on, and it twists the tail yarn an extra time around each cast-on stitch. This makes a cast-on that matches the bind-off in stretchiness, too, without flaring out. But the important thing to understand about this is that it requires a lot more yarn in the tail. I usually allow about twice as much.
Your cast-on and bind-off can do a lot to make your work look exquisitely hand-crafted instead of homemade.
It's hard to display right now. It's all scrunched up on the needles. I'll be posting photos when it's done, for sure! I'm quite pleased with how it looks so far.
There's a bind-off that makes a very thin edge that looks a lot like I-cord. It's called the Icelandic bind-off. It's stretchier than most bind-offs, but doesn't tend to make the edge flare unless you use a stitch that really tends to draw in from side-to-side.
It has a cast-on that matches pretty well called the Old Norwegian cast on, or German twisted cast-on.
It's a long-tail cast-on, and it twists the tail yarn an extra time around each cast-on stitch. This makes a cast-on that matches the bind-off in stretchiness, too, without flaring out. But the important thing to understand about this is that it requires a lot more yarn in the tail. I usually allow about twice as much.
Your cast-on and bind-off can do a lot to make your work look exquisitely hand-crafted instead of homemade.
If you learn a bind-off, you should try to learn the cast-on that matches it most closely, I think.
These two are perfect for anything done in garter stitch. They both make the garter stitch look like it just wraps around the edge and the edge has no beginning.
It's also very subtly decorative for other stitches. And its stretchiness is great in most places.
One of the best knitting books I've bought is this one with the cast-ons and bind-offs.
It has tables in the front to help you find the matching cast-on for your bind-off, the stretchiest ones, the most stabilizing ones, the most decorative ones, etc.
This has helped me make my work look so much more professional and finished.
There's a bind-off that makes a very thin edge that looks a lot like I-cord. It's called the Icelandic bind-off. It's stretchier than most bind-offs, but doesn't tend to make the edge flare unless you use a stitch that really tends to draw in from side-to-side.
It has a cast-on that matches pretty well called the Old Norwegian cast on, or German twisted cast-on.
It's a long-tail cast-on, and it twists the tail yarn an extra time around each cast-on stitch. This makes a cast-on that matches the bind-off in stretchiness, too, without flaring out. But the important thing to understand about this is that it requires a lot more yarn in the tail. I usually allow about twice as much.
Your cast-on and bind-off can do a lot to make your work look exquisitely hand-crafted instead of homemade.
If you learn a bind-off, you should try to learn the cast-on that matches it most closely, I think.
These two are perfect for anything done in garter stitch. They both make the garter stitch look like it just wraps around the edge and the edge has no beginning.
It's also very subtly decorative for other stitches. And its stretchiness is great in most places.
One of the best knitting books I've bought is this one with the cast-ons and bind-offs.
It has tables in the front to help you find the matching cast-on for your bind-off, the stretchiest ones, the most stabilizing ones, the most decorative ones, etc.
This has helped me make my work look so much more professional and finished.
Yes! This book is incredible by Cap Sease, it's always by my coffee table where I knit. I too had not tried the Iclandic bind-off--very nice finish without bulk.
I-cord > k1tbl, k2tbl - back 2 the left needle, repeat
I-cord > k1, sl1(k), k1, psso - back 2 the left needle, repeat
Icelandic > sl1(p), k1 thru - back 1 the left needle
I’m going to go with the middle swatch as I think it looks most like the join I used and I enjoyed it more than the other I-cord
So there you have it!!
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