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I've separated the text and the pictures--both are in this post, but won't print out as nicely as the Word doc should.

(If you have gotten a blank document, that's probably because you haven't downloaded the file converter that will convert older versions of Word to your version. You can get it from Microsoft update. Ditto if you use some other kind of Word processing software, but you'll probably need to google for "Microsoft Word" "converter" and your program name.)

Apologies to all for being so late to check this thread & my messages--I'm trying to get rootkits off all three of our home computers! Ugh!

As to why I haven't emailed the file in response to your PM--Did you give me an addy? PMs are the best place to share email addys--keeps them from being public.

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No-seam 18" Doll Hoodie

Any acrylic regular worsted yarn. US 5 needles
Spare DPN for 3-needle bind-offs.

Note: These directions are for circular needles. Straight needles will work, but are less convenient for the bind-offs. The body and hood are knitted flat; I generally knit the sleeves in the round, using the magic-loop technique.

You are working from the bottom up.

You want a very stretchy cast-on. I recommend the “Two Stranded Tubular Cast-On For Single Ribbing”. You will need minor modifications, as you have an odd number of stitches.

Your cast-on row will be row 1, on the RIGHT side of the hoodie.

Begin with a slip-knot, and leave an 18” tail.

Place working yarn in front; tail-end yarn in back.

Start scooping from the working yarn--that will be the knit stitches--you are going to be making an odd number of stitches and you want the last stitch scooped to be a purl stitch from the tail.

16 st, PM, 27 st, PM, 16 st (59 st total)
(Be sure this row will start and end with P1.)
Note: You may prefer to cast on all 59 st and then temporarily use pins to identify where to place markers. You can then insert your markers on a subsequent row; inserting markers while learning a new cast-on can be tricky.

2: K1, P1,....K1 (wrong side)
3: P1,K1, ... P1
4: K1,P1,… until 2 stitches are left. BBO. P1, K1.
5: P1, K1, YO, K1, P1, ... P1.
6: K5, P1,K1, ...P1 until last 5 stitches, K5.

Begin body

1: K9, M1R, k7, (M), k7, M1L, K13, M1R, k7, (M), k7, M1L, K9. 63 st.
2: (Most wrong-side rows) K5, purl 53, K5
3: (Most right-side rows) knit

Second buttonhole should start 8 full ribs above the first one, also on the wrong side.
(Make this 7 full ribs for the baby doll.)
WS: K5, P53, K3, BBO, K2
RS: K2, YO, K60.
WS: K5, P53, K5.

Break for sleeve openings

Right front:
1: K13, (pass marker end behind working yarn and forward over it), K4, BBO, turn. (16 st).
2: P11, K5.
3: K14, K2T (15 st).
4: P10, K5.
5: Knit, slipping marker yarn on this and every 4th row. Photo shows markers when sleeve opening is finished.)

Continue alternating rows 4 & 5 until time for next buttonhole. (Same spacing as before.)

WS: P10, K3, BBO, K2.
RS: K2, YO, K12.
WS: P10, K5.

Begin neck shaping. (This should be row 19 on your marker count.)
19: Knit, binding off first 5 st (10 st).
20: P10.
21: K1, SKP, k7 (9 st).
22 P9.
23 K1, SKP, K6 (8 st).
24 P8.
26 K1, SKP, K5 (7 st).
26 P7.
(Slip these 7 stitches to a holder or scrap yarn.)
You should see 6 complete 4-row segments on your marker, plus the final purl row, for 26 rows.

Center section:
WNY on RS:
1: K2 (BO 1st st), K2 (start marker yarn on this side of sleeve as before), K19 (begin marker yarn for second sleeve as before, K4 (BBO last stitch).
2: P27.
3: SKP, K23, K2T.
4: P25.
5: K25 (slip marker yarns on this row and every fourth row after this.
Repeat rows 4 and 5 until markers match the right front --that is you have completed row 26.

You can now pick up your front and use a three-needle bind-off, continuing with your working yarn until you have bound-off the front and 7 stitches from the back. Be sure to correctly position your work with right-sides together for this. You can leave the last loop live and slide it next to the other live stitches.

If you prefer to do the bind-off later, wrap your needle 15 times with the working yarn before cutting it--that will leave you enough yarn to do the bind-off when you are ready.

Left front:
WNY on RS:
1: K2 (BO 1st st), K2 (start marker yarn on this side of sleeve as before), K13
2: K5, P11 (16 st).
3: SKP, K14.
4: K5, P10 (15 st).
5: K15 (continuing to slip marker yarn every 4th row).

Repeat rows 4 & 5 until you reach row 20. You cannot bind of your front edging on row 19, as you did before, so you will do this on row 20 instead.

20: Bind-off 5 st knit-wise, but you will slip the last bound-off stitch over a purl stitch. Continue in purl. (10 st)
21: K1, SKP, K7 (9 st)
22: P9.
23: K1, SKP, K6 (8 st).
24: P8.
25: K1, SKP, K5 (7 st).
26: P7.

At this point, you will again close the shoulder seam with a three-needle bind-off. If you have left the right shoulder, bind it off now.

You should have 13 live stitches remaining at the back neck, plus two "extras", one from each front.


Hood:

Turn the sweater body right-side out. Start immediately after the ribbing at the doll's right front and pick up 14 stitches between that point and the first live stitch on the back. You'll probably pick up 12 st, then knit the first "extra" live stitch, then reach down into the stitch below it and pick up another stitch there. Continue to knit the 13 stitches from the back neck. (Slip a marker yarn around the center back stitch, or use a safety pin to mark it.) Now pick up another 14 stitches from the left front neck edge, just as you did before, but reversed. 41 st. (Note, sometimes it looks better at the neck to pick up more or fewer stitches. Just be sure to keep both sides the same, so the total number of stitches remains odd.)

First WS row: K4, P17, (place marker yarn immediately after center stitch) P16, K4

R1: RS increase. Knit to first marker, M1L, (slip marker yarn around working yarn) K1, M1R, K to end. (If you are careful to always M1L before you slip the marker, the marker yarn will stay straight next to the center.)
R2 (and all WS rows): K4, P(whatever), K4
R3: Knit.

Repeat rows 1-4, stopping when the hood is about 6", after a wrong-side (purl) row. Turn the hood inside out. Finish the hood with a 3 needle bind-off from front edges to center-back. (You'll knit the last stitch singly.)

Sleeves:
Starting at underarm, pick up and knit 17 st before and after the shoulder seam. (Picking up 4 stitches immediately next to the armscye and then every other stitch along the side seems to work pretty well.)
(If you can only pick up 16, then skip the row 3 decrease below.)

Short rows foundation:
Beginning at armscye, knit to shoulder seam, plus 5 st. Turn.
Slip this stitch tightly, then P9. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then K11. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then P13. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then K15. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then P17. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then K19. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then P21. Turn
Slip this stitch tightly, then K to end.
Slip marker yarn at end of this row, to identify first decrease row.

Note: when the short rows increase by two stitches in each row and you slip the first stitch, you have a more gradual increase than when you do the wrap-and-turn, so holes are less noticeable. If you do German Short Rows, there will be no holes at all.

1: K2 K2T, K24, SKP, K2 (32 st).
2: Knit.
3: (Slip marker) K1, K2T, K24, SKP, K1 (30 st).
4: Knit.
5: (Sl marker) K2T, K24, SKP (28 st).
Rows 6-8: knit.
Continue repeating rows 5-8 (You are now decreasing every 4th row.)
Row 9: 26 st.
R 3: 24 st.
R 17: 22 st.
R 21: 20 st.
Slip marker for the last time on row 23, but instead of decreasing, begin K1P1 ribbing over 20 st. Complete 5 rows of ribbing and bind off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Turn sweater inside out and weave in loose ends. (You may want to knot some in place first.) For the sleeves, "fake" an additional knit stitch to hide the final jog in the yarn where the rows overlap. I find it works best to do this with a yarn needle. You now need to sew on 3 buttons--somewhere around 3/4" in diameter seems to work best. And you are done!

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Terms:

M1L: Insert left needle under working yarn from front to back. Knit into the back of this new loop. (Forms a left-leaning increase.)

M1R: Insert left needle under working yarn from back to front. Knit into the front of this new loop. (Forms a right-leaning increase.) Note—this one is more difficult than the previous one, especially if you knit very tightly. Be warned.

BBO: backwards bind-off: Slip last two knitted stitches from right needle back to left needle. Pass first slipped stitch over the second slipped stitch. Slip remaining stitch back to right needle.

WNY: With New/Next Yarn

K2T: Knit 2 together. (Forms a right-leaning decrease.)

SKP: Slip one stitch, knit the next, pass the slipped stitch over. (Forms a left-leaning decrease.)

© 2012 by Coleen Christensen
 

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Thanks for this lovely pattern. I think my GD might be getting an AG for Christmas, and this would be a nice start to her wardrobe.
 

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Thank you for the pattern and pictures. My computer was down for the month of August and I am just now trying to catch up with this site. I read the previous day's forum and requested the instructions. Now I found that you did send them out the next day, so, an email will not be necessary as I am printing it out as I write this message to you. Thank you very much. I have four great granddaughters that I gave AG clones to last year for Christmas and I plan to make them some clothes for them this year. Thanks again.
 
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