as always, fall back on your gauge information...use the two strands the store suggested and knit a few inches...now measure and compare against the gauge info on your pattern. if it is too small, maybe you could add a third and continue knitting...tiny changes can be made with needle size, too...if the gauge is good, you're fine...
Really Need Advise
I have a favorite cap pattern that is a mock cable cap made with worsted weight yarn using needles size 4 at the edge for 3 patterns then switch to size 7 for the balance of the cap. The pattern calls for Cast On 70 stitches. Gauge 5 sts=1".
I purchased some Wendy Peter Pan 50 g. double knit yarn at a yarn store. She assures me that I can use this yarn using two strands, the same pattern, and needle sizes, and it will work out to be close to the cap I make with worsted weight. If you are not farmiliar with this yarn, I really don't think even using two strands it is anywhere near 4 ply worsted weight yarn.
I was hoping to make a small cap for maybe for 1 year old. I can't imagine the hole size using a size 7 needle.
I would very much appreciate your thoughts.
I purchased some Wendy Peter Pan 50 g. double knit yarn at a yarn store. She assures me that I can use this yarn using two strands, the same pattern, and needle sizes, and it will work out to be close to the cap I make with worsted weight. If you are not farmiliar with this yarn, I really don't think even using two strands it is anywhere near 4 ply worsted weight yarn.
I was hoping to make a small cap for maybe for 1 year old. I can't imagine the hole size using a size 7 needle.
I would very much appreciate your thoughts.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Your best bet is to knit a swatch and see what you get. You may need to go up or down a needle size or two to match the gauge that you normally get with worsted yarn. You can research and plan and theorize, but you won't really know what you will get until you take needles in hand. As they say, "The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry."
I thank you both so much for the advise. I look at that small skein and wonder if now that I have 50% as much since she has divided it. Such a worrier I am. I am going to call the store and discuss it, if I am ok, I will pour a cup of coffee and give it my best shot. Thanks so much for the support.
Please tell me, which way is it.. too few stitches, use larger or smaller needles? I swear I am going to write that done in a safe place..LOL
Please tell me, which way is it.. too few stitches, use larger or smaller needles? I swear I am going to write that done in a safe place..LOL
Larger needles, larger stitches
Thank You, Thank You
Baker - When you write that down for future reference don't confuse larger stitches with more stitches. Larger needles = larger stitches = fewer stitches per inch.
I need advice too. What is the best way to join yarn. I do not like knots but haven't found a join that I like. Usually I tie a knot and work the yarn ends in, but I think there must be a better way.
I just posted this in the other thread that you started a few minutes ago: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-3667-1.html#28948Grandma Jo said:I need advice too. What is the best way to join yarn. I do not like knots but haven't found a join that I like. Usually I tie a knot and work the yarn ends in, but I think there must be a better way.
Elizabeth Zimmerman's way is she best, She would permanently splice it as follows pull each yarn end in half, removing one half for about 2 or 3 inches. Twirl the yarn ends together, wet the 2 or 3 inches in your mouth and rub them in the palms of your hands rapidly. They will felt together. She says if you are squeamish you can spray water on them but it doesn't work as well. Unfortunately it only works for wool and make sure it's dry before resuming knitting. Other yarns should be tied at a seam edge and note in the middle of a row.
Mary Ann, thanks for the tip. I am using acrylic yarn the the sweater I am knitting is from the neck down. No seams. Thanks anyway though.
EZ's splice, known as the spit splice will ONLY work on yarn that is all, or very close to all, wool. And it cannot be superwash wool, either.
I have been knitting for over 40 yrs now. I knot until I'm ready to work in the ends. Then I work one end (old yarn) the direction it was going and the other (new end) the direction it is "coming from." Sometimes I just let the ends hang until I work in the ends. Don't worry about "holes" as you will even out the yarn when you work in the ends.
There is also the Russian splice. Google it.
I have been knitting for over 40 yrs now. I knot until I'm ready to work in the ends. Then I work one end (old yarn) the direction it was going and the other (new end) the direction it is "coming from." Sometimes I just let the ends hang until I work in the ends. Don't worry about "holes" as you will even out the yarn when you work in the ends.
There is also the Russian splice. Google it.
I googled the Russian splice and it may be just what you are looking for. It was very good.
I thank you so much
Larger Needle-Larger Stitches=-Fewer Stitches..got that
Based on that, I assume also the project will be smaller in size
Larger Needle-Larger Stitches=-Fewer Stitches..got that
Based on that, I assume also the project will be smaller in size
Actually, no, just the opposite. It will only be smaller if you reduce the total number of stitches you cast on. For example:Baker said:I thank you so much
Larger Needle-Larger Stitches=-Fewer Stitches..got that
Based on that, I assume also the project will be smaller in size
12 stitches cast on at 4 stitches per inch on a size 9 needle = 3 inches wide of knitted fabric
12 stitches cast on at 3 stitches per inch on a size 10 needle = 4 inches wide of knitted fabric
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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