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What a shame as it's a pretty necklace. The beads look very small & look like size 15's; but maybe they're larger than shown in the picture. They're a luster finish & since I also love to do beading, I would recommend a very strong beading thread called Wildfire which has a smooth thermally bonded coating. It is very strong, abrasion resistant (won't fray), waterproof, with zero stretch. If you do buy this brand, don't buy it at Jo-Ann's. Get it at Michael's...it's a lot cheaper there. I would also recommend a Big Eye needle as shown in Katsch's post.
 

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Lena B said:
This necklace was broken during the break in pulled it apart trying to take an earring that went with it stupid thing is only one was taken
So miss me luck trying
lady at senior action said I can do it will take me some time so buying the seed bead thread this afternoon
Already lots of good advice here to follow.

The only point that I can add, is that professionals, when stringing pearls, place a tiny knot (almost invisible in practice) between each pearl. Pulled very tightly.....this means that you will usually you will only lose one pearl if the string breaks. Also, it stops them "wearing" against each other....

I do agree about the Dental Floss idea from someone else here, thats strong stuff and should not "rot" over time....

See here:-


It will mean that the string will become ever so slightly longer, but if you lost a few, then it will help make up the difference too.

Best wishes and get the magnifying spectacles out!!

Andy
 

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der_fisherman said:
Already lots of good advice here to follow.

The only point that I can add, is that professionals, when stringing pearls, place a tiny knot (almost invisible in practice) between each pearl. Pulled very tightly.....this means that you will usually you will only lose one pearl if the string breaks. Also, it stops them "wearing" against each other....

I do agree about the Dental Floss idea from someone else here, thats strong stuff and should not "rot" over time....

See here:-


It will mean that the string will become ever so slightly longer, but if you lost a few, then it will help make up the difference too.

Best wishes and get the magnifying spectacles out!!

Andy
Pearls are generally knotted but I do not believe these are not pearls. They look like seed beads to me.
 

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Katsch said:
Pearls are generally knotted but I do not believe these are not pearls. They look like seed beads to me.
Firstly, thanks for you post and interest and you could well be right, but that does not prevent Lena B making them safe in this fashion, if she so wishes.

For example, if while restringing she accidentally drops them, then at the most 1 bead will maybe drop off, not possibly hundreds.....

Many years ago, I had a pearl necklace made in Hong Kong for a girlfriend and you could see that with a bit of practice, such knotting can be done reasonably fast. The person doing the job actually does not "knot" at the end of the last bead, as you might think, but between the last two beads, whilst pressing them tightly together. This keeps the knot very tight and small and importantly, exactly in the right place with no "looseness"..........

You might have to see it to follow what I am saying!! My explanation may not be good enough! Sorry!

You could even do it for plastic beads if one wished and the "string" was correctly sized for the "holes"!

Have a great day

Andy
 

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der_fisherman said:
Firstly, thanks for you post and interest and you could well be right, but that does not prevent Lena B making them safe in this fashion, if she so wishes.

For example, if while restringing she accidentally drops them, then at the most 1 bead will maybe drop off, not possibly hundreds.....

Many years ago, I had a pearl necklace made in Hong Kong for a girlfriend and you could see that with a bit of practice, such knotting can be done reasonably fast. The person doing the job actually does not "knot" at the end of the last bead, as you might think, but between the last two beads, whilst pressing them tightly together. This keeps the knot very tight and small and importantly, exactly in the right place with no "looseness"..........

You might have to see it to follow what I am saying!! My explanation may not be good enough! Sorry!

You could even do it for plastic beads if one wished and the "string" was correctly sized for the "holes"!

Have a great day

Andy
Your explanation is fine. The stringing and knotting of pearls may look simple enough but like any craft it does take practice. The OP would most likely get quicker and better results, especially if she has not knotted before, using beading wire and a large eye beading needle. The seed beads in her photo are very tiny and IMHO would be difficult to knot. I have created many beaded necklaces and bracelets in the last 10 years. I have found the large eye beading needle to be a valuable tool. I have used it to string many seed beads and it makes the work much quicker.
Kathy
PS Picture below is my work. This particular necklace using the age old craft of Kumihimo.
 

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Katsch said:
Your explanation is fine. The stringing and knotting of pearls may look simple enough but like any craft it does take practice. The OP would most likely get quicker and better results, especially if she has not knotted before, using beading wire and a large eye beading needle. The seed beads in her photo are very tiny and IMHO would be difficult to knot. I have created many beaded necklaces and bracelets in the last 10 years. I have found the large eye beading needle to be a valuable tool. I have used it to string many seed beads and it makes the work much quicker.
Kathy
PS Picture below is my work. This particular necklace using the age old craft of Kumihimo.
Very pretty necklace. I also make jewelry and agree that knotting the beads for the repair of the necklace is not recommended, and beading wire would be the way to go vs. dental floss or anything else.
 

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Runner Girl said:
Very pretty necklace. I also make jewelry and agree that knotting the beads for the repair of the necklace is not recommended, and beading wire would be the way to go vs. dental floss or anything else.
Thank you and yes I agree. The seed beads will lay nicely on beading wire and are IMO too small for knotting.
ETA the green Kumihimo necklace finally sold last summer as I held out for my price
 

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Katsch said:
Thank you and yes I agree. The seed beads will lay nicely on beading wire and are IMO too small for knotting.
ETA the green Kumihimo necklace finally sold last summer as I held out for my price
It is such a beautiful necklace. Happy to hear you sold it and did not compromise on your price.
 

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Lena B said:
This necklace was broken during the break in pulled it apart trying to take an earring that went with it stupid thing is only one was taken
So miss me luck trying
lady at senior action said I can do it will take me some time so buying the seed bead thread this afternoon
Lena B-I like Nymo bead thread. That's what I use on all my peyote projects. It's very strong and comes in different colors. I run each strand through a little block of Thread Heaven thread conditioner. Denise
 

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laceluvr said:
What a shame as it's a pretty necklace. The beads look very small & look like size 15's; but maybe they're larger than shown in the picture. They're a luster finish & since I also love to do beading, I would recommend a very strong beading thread called Wildfire which has a smooth thermally bonded coating. It is very strong, abrasion resistant (won't fray), waterproof, with zero stretch. If you do buy this brand, don't buy it at Jo-Ann's. Get it at Michael's...it's a lot cheaper there. I would also recommend a Big Eye needle as shown in Katsch's post.
I agree with everything you have said here.

Another possiblity for the thread is Fireline, which I slightly prefer over Wildfire. Fireline is sold in beading shops--or you can buy it for a lot less in the fishing department at Dicks or other sporting goods stores! Buy the "crystal" color in "6 pound test."

ETA: I would not use Nymo thread here because it stretches. Nymo is wonderful for fringe.
 

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der_fisherman said:
Already lots of good advice here to follow.

The only point that I can add, is that professionals, when stringing pearls, place a tiny knot (almost invisible in practice) between each pearl. Pulled very tightly.....this means that you will usually you will only lose one pearl if the string breaks. Also, it stops them "wearing" against each other....

I do agree about the Dental Floss idea from someone else here, thats strong stuff and should not "rot" over time....

See here:-


It will mean that the string will become ever so slightly longer, but if you lost a few, then it will help make up the difference too.

Best wishes and get the magnifying spectacles out!!

Andy
I would never use dental floss for stringing beads--it shreds.

The beads that the OP has shown us are far too small to make knots in between. They should be strung on beading thread.

There are two reasons for making knots in a pearl necklace. First (as you said), if the strand breaks only one pearl will be lost. The second reason is that the knots protect the nacre of the pearl from being damaged by rubbing against the pearl next to it.

To string larger pearls, one needs to use silk thread (my preference) or special nylon thread that will make nice, rounded knots. The knots should not be invisible. The size of the knot is determined by the size of the silk thread, which in turn should be the thickest thread that will fit through the holes in the pearls. It takes a great deal of practice to learn how to tie the knots so that they are snugged up against the pearl and so that the knots all look the same.
 

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der_fisherman said:
Firstly, thanks for you post and interest and you could well be right, but that does not prevent Lena B making them safe in this fashion, if she so wishes.

For example, if while restringing she accidentally drops them, then at the most 1 bead will maybe drop off, not possibly hundreds.....

Many years ago, I had a pearl necklace made in Hong Kong for a girlfriend and you could see that with a bit of practice, such knotting can be done reasonably fast. The person doing the job actually does not "knot" at the end of the last bead, as you might think, but between the last two beads, whilst pressing them tightly together. This keeps the knot very tight and small and importantly, exactly in the right place with no "looseness"..........

You might have to see it to follow what I am saying!! My explanation may not be good enough! Sorry!

You could even do it for plastic beads if one wished and the "string" was correctly sized for the "holes"!

Have a great day

Andy
Actually, Andy, knotting between seed beads would look ridiculous and most likely would double the length of the strand. The knots would be about the same size as the beads.

When knotting pearls (not seed beads) one must knot tightly between all of the pearls so that there is no movement. The goal is not to make the knots small, but to leave no room for the pearls to move.

The reason that there is no knot after the final bead (or before the first one) is that French wire is used to enclose and protect the silk thread and attach the clasp. One actually does not place knots between the last three pearls, but adds the French wire and clasp, then goes back through the last pearl, makes a knot, then goes back through the second-to-last pearl, and makes another knot, It is at this point that the thread must be cut so that no tails are showing. There is also a special set of steps for stringing the first three pearls. More than a bit of practice is required.
 
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