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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a brilliant idea to soak some LK 150 needles in bleach to try and whiten up the plastic handles as they weren't looking so white.
What I landed up with was rusty
water and the handles were the same color. I guess I didn't see the rust to start off with!
So, now I need to find the best way to remove the rust. I've seen suggestions of a metal file, fine sandpaper, a brass brush.
Which would be the best idea??
Thanks!
 

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1. Never chlorine bleach! It will turn lingerie yellow. If you want to whiten the yellowed plastic on a KM, get some facial hair bleach. Mix it as directed, apply (paint it on) to the plastic, and cover it with clear plastic wrap (such as Saran wrap). Let it sit for a day or so - preferably in a location where it can get some sunshine to speed the process.

2. Some people swear by soaking needles in strong tea - others recommend Alka Seltzer - for removing rust. Sometimes what looks like rust is actually "gunk" from a disintegrated sponge bar. My favorite tool for cleaning & polishing needles is a sponge-looking pad, used for fine refinishing wood, in lieu of 000 steel wool. Packages of these pads are readily available for about $5 wherever furniture refinishing supplies are sold. These pads will not splinter like steel wool and will not catch on the needle hook if you rub the pad along the needle from the butt end towards the hook. If the hook itself is rusty, throw that needle away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. The strong tea worked really well for light rust, but I had a few with a bit more rust, so I used jewelry metal files and fine sand paper. The SOS didnt seem to do the job and I was making a huge mess with it! I've decided to abandon the handles and just leave them as they are, as this is an older Red Singer LK 150, and so I think I need to be gentle!
 

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CindyLindy said:
I had a brilliant idea to soak some LK 150 needles in bleach to try and whiten up the plastic handles as they weren't looking so white.
What I landed up with was rusty
water and the handles were the same color. I guess I didn't see the rust to start off with!
So, now I need to find the best way to remove the rust. I've seen suggestions of a metal file, fine sandpaper, a brass brush.
Which would be the best idea??
Thanks!
I use WD-40 (some people believe that WD-40 is not good for knitting machines, but as many have a lot of plastic parts, it's far better than some of the other cleaning products in use that damage plastic!) and wire wool.

It polishes up "slightly" rusty needles really well and preserves them from future rust at the same time.

If the rust is so bad that this method does not remove it, then really you need to replace the needles. The rust around the latch axle, can be difficult to remove and the latch MUST operate smoothly and accurately.

There are new Russian made needles (I believe Russian) on ebay for many different machines. I have bought and used them, they look even better than the original ones!! They are beautifully polished, with a latch that is accurately made, which also works perfectly....They simply work really well.....though I have only used them in Brother machines myself.

There are also firms in the far east that can supply them too.

Needles must move and operate smoothly, or you will simply be annoyed by the machine and stop using it, so get them all perfect before usage.

Best of luck.

Andy
 

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der_fisherman said:
<snip> There are new Russian made needles (I believe Russian) on ebay for many different machines. I have bought and used them, they look even better than the original ones!! They are beautifully polished, with a latch that is accurately made, which also works perfectly....They simply work really well.....though I have only used them in Brother machines myself. <snip>
Andy
The Russian needles sound interesting and I will look for them. It is always nice to hear of new products becoming available that are this highly recommended. I assume that you would recommend the e-bay seller as well Andy?
 

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Azzara said:
The Russian needles sound interesting and I will look for them. It is always nice to hear of new products becoming available that are this highly recommended. I assume that you would recommend the e-bay seller as well Andy?
They arrived fast and as I said, and they appear to be better made than the original needles. They work really well and I have had no complaints from the people I replaced them for.

But not for a LK150, only for Brother 9xx machines.

Here is the German ebay listing:-

http://www.ebay.de/itm/50x-KH910-Nadel-Brother-Strickmaschine-Knittingmachine-needles-/300808215877?hash=item4609911d45:g:iykAAOSw37tWCpk3

I looked on ebay USA and found another seller of needles for an LK150, though I have to say I have never every used them myself:-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brother-KX-350-KH-390-KH-400-LK150-Needle-Replacements-Same-needle-fits-all-/191910283691?hash=item2caebe89ab:g:LccAAOSwOVpXdTof

I hope this helps!

regards

Andy
 

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Soaking most metals in bleach will cause rust. Soaking the needles in vinegar or lemon juice will help, and you can use the rind of the lemon to work off difficult patches. Dry thoroughly and soak in a good quality sewing machine or gun oil. Remove a sit on paper towels to dry off excess oil.
 

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For those in the US, denatured alcohol is excellent for cleaning ALL parts of KMs, but for metal parts, including soaking needles, add a little machine oil. About a teaspoon per quart will leave just enough oily residue to prohibit rust. The denatured alcohol evaporates quickly. (Kerosene is a little too smelly for me & I wouldn't recommend it for cleaning plastic.)
 

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SOS pads are made to be wet to work best. Dry can work in a pinch, but sometimes dry can still give off minute splinters. And wet soap in an SOS pad defeats the purpose of keeping moisture away from the needles.
 

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I recently saw a video on facebook on how to remove rust from tools. I believe they used vinegar. I'll look for it.
 
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