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Hi...I have made a number of Wallabys with hoods, but a friend requested that I make her one without a hood. Has anyone ever done this, and can you tell me how you did it? Of course I didn't ask this question before I began, and am ready to start working on the neckline. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks so much!

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To make the hood less pointy: About 8 rows before reaching the top of the hood, do two decreases on the 4 middle stitches. Repeat the process on every right side until you reach the desired length.
Put the two center stitches between markers about 2.5" from the top of the hood, then every other knit row decrease before the first marker and after the second marker.
about 1 inch before the end of the GARTER STITCH hood, knit a kind of gusset on the center two inches. E.g. say you were getting 10sts/inch, and the hood was 80 sts. wide. Knit 49 sts, k2tog, turn; *knit 19 sts. k2tog turn. Rep. from* until only the center 20 stitches remain.

To get a line of 5 garter stitches marching up the raglan sleeve-to-body join, echoing the garter edge for Wallaby pouch and also the front opening and collar or hood edge, mark a center stitch for decreases at each sleeve-to-body junction. (I took my center stitches from the body but you could take them from the sleeves just as well.) * When you get to 3 sts before the center stitch, purl one, purl 2 together, purl one (center stitch), purl 2 together, purl one. Seven stitches are involved, but the visual result is 5 purled stitches. Knit the next round. Repeat from *, always starting the purl stitches 3 before the center stitch.

The Overlapping Placket (the neck opening of the sweater):
Two people sent in versions of creating an overlapping placket, I'm including them both.
Version 1
Instead of using 10 stitches, use 6, centered in the front of the sweater. Start the placket at the same place as in the regular directions and knit these 6 stitches in each row so that you are creating a garter stitch area centered on the stockinette front. Do about 6 rows this way, or about an inch. Now, knit to the placket and knit all the stitches of the placket. Turn the work and knit the placket stitches and continue knitting around again to the placket. When you get to the placket, pick up six stitches by picking up the loop behind each of the stitches of the placket and knitting one stitch in each. You can do this in two ways. You can use a double pointed needed in the same size as your circular needle to pick up the 6 stitches or you can use a slip stitch (double knitting) technique. If you use the extra needle (easier), pick up the loops from the row behind and below the row you are working on (6 stitches) and knit them onto this extra needle.Turn the work and knit 6 stitches and continue knitting the row until you come around to the placket again. Knit the placket stitches, turn, knit the placket stitches and continue back until you get to the stitches on the extra needle. Knit the 6 stitches, turn, knit them again. In 3 or 4 rows, you will have enough ease that you can use the circular needle to knit both sides of the placket and then continue on your merry way following the WW directions. To use slip stitch on that pick up row, take a deep breath. When you get to the point where you want to split the placket, *slip the first placket stitch without knitting it. Pick up the loop behind the stitch (the stitch one row behind the stitch) and knit that. * Repeat between the * six times. When you get to the end of the placket, turn the work. Now, *knit the stitch you just made (a new stitch), yarn forward (that is, put the yarn to the front of the knitting not over the needle), slip the next stitch, yarn backward (put yarn back but not over the needle)*. Knit to the end of the row and beginning of the placket. Now, *knit the first stitch, yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back* and repeat that. Turn the work and slip the first stitch, knit the second, etc. If you do this right, you get two separate layers of knitting. Again, in 3 or 4 rows, you should be able to separate the two layers you made and knit regularly, you do this by pulling all 12 stitches off the needle and putting every other one onto one end of the circular and the rest onto the other end and it should be obvious as to which set goes on which end. Again, proceed as directed in the WW directions.

Version 2
a) identify the ten center stitches with markers as instructed in the pattern.
b) knit those stitches with both your working yarn and a yard long length of your yarn (it is best if this is done on a row that does not contain any decreases)
c) after knitting the ten stitches with both yarns, drop the extra yarn and continue around until you reach the center placket stitches again.
d) when you reach the double stitches, they need to be split, transferring half of each stitch to a double pointed needle and the other half of each stitch to the circular needle.
e) at this point you need to know whether you are making a placket for a male or a female, if a female, the button hole needs to be placed on the right hand edge as you would wear it, if a male, the button hole needs to be placed on the lefthand edge. Depending on which gender you are knitting for, you may need to transfer the stitches back on to the circular needle and put the ten other stitches on the double pointed needle.
f) from this point on you knit back and forth, always keeping the first ten stitches on each side in garter stitch. The stitches will be tight (very tight) on the needle for the first five or six rows, and the double pointed needle should be used until all stitches can be transferred back to the circular needle for knitting back and forth comfortably.
g) when all the stitches can be knit on the circular needle again, make the first buttonhole (a simple one row buttonhole over three or four stitches works very well).
h) calculate how many buttonholes you will need, children's sizes usually need two, adult sizes usually need three, and remember to subtract four rows from the remaining rows, since you will not want to have a buttonhole on the last few rows (you will be binding off five stitches on each side).
i) bind off five stitches on each side when the decreases are done. Then follow the pattern, knitting the first 5 stitches and doing the NECK RIBBING.
i hope this helps you the link i used was
scroll down hope this is what u r looking for.
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