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DK (double knitting) is the same as 8 ply in Australia and New Zealand, and has a usual gauge of 22 sts and 30 rows on 4mm or US 6 needles and is equivalent to US light worsted.

Worsted is equivalent to our 10 ply or aran-weight, has a gauge of 20 sts and 26 rows on 4.5mm or US 7 needles.
 

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nid said:
Thank you very much for help me , it mean if in pattern say
Worsted weight yarn i can use DK too.
No your garment will come out smaller than the pattern unless you change your needle size to get the right gauge - then you will have a much looser fabric.
 

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Yarn Type (US): Worsted, Standard Yarn Weight System: 4 or Medium, Ply (UK, NZ, AU): 10 ply, m/100g: 200-240, Wraps Per Inch (WPI): 9 wpi, Suggested needle (mm): 4.5— 5.5 mm

Yarn Type (US): DK, Standard Yarn Weight System : 3 or Light, Ply (UK, NZ, AU): 8 ply, m/100g: 240- 300, Wraps Per Inch (WPI): 12 wpi, Suggested needle (mm): 3.75— 4.5 mm
 

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nid said:
Thank you very much for help me , it mean if in pattern say
Worsted weight yarn i can use DK too.
Hard to say. These weight ranges are very wide. If in the pattern they were referring to the lower end of the upper range and you have a yarn in the upper end of the lower range you can, but if it is for the middle - no.
 

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The needle sizes used for gauge as well as the stitches per inch are different between the two. I started working with DK weight yarns because I like the lighter fabric they create. DK weight yarn typically has a gauge of 22 stitches per 4 inches using a US size 6 needle whereas worsted weight is 20 stitches with US size 7. Changing to a larger needle on the DK weight to try to match gauge will give you a more open stitch which might not drape as nicely. Also, when making garments the looser stitch will show more skin than you might want to.
 

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I answered the question about 3 weeks ago. Worsted and Mercerised are processes for wool and cotton respectively. The yarn companies have screwed everything up. Once upon a time "ply" meant something too. It depended on how "plies" there were as to the thickness of a yarn/wool. Most knitting magazines now, do list at the back of the book a picture of the yarn/wool they are using. I just look at them and judge accordingly. The best thing to do is knit a swatch as every knitter has their own tension. Ann
 

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There is a relatively new system of assigning numbers to different weights of yarn.

Number 1 is fingering yarn and most sock yarns. Usually about 7 or 8 stitches per inch.

Number 2 is sport weight, a little heavier than fingering, but lighter than DK. Usually about 6 stitches per inch.

Number 3 is DK (double knitting) yarn, and is heavier than sport, but lighter than worsted. Usually about 5-1/2 stitches per inch.

Number 4 is worsted weight, and heavier than DK, but lighter than chunky. Usually about 5 to 4-1/2 stitches per inch.

Number 5 is chunky, and heavier than worsted, but not as heavy as bulky.

Number 6 is bulky, and some of the heaviest yarn manufactured.

I hope this helps.
 

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cakes said:
I can never use the size needles the wool co. suggest I need perhaps three sizes larger or i cannot get into my stitch.
UK and USA needle sizes are diferent also it depends on whether you are a tight or loose knitter, as to the size of needles you use, I hope this is of help to you
 

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What I've come to experience (and be told my all 3 of my lys around me) , is that DK weight is closer to that of sport weight..which many yarns list as a 3-light. DK can sometimes be just a very tad heavier, but not so much that it makes a huge difference..BUT, the difference between Worsted and DK would be much more noticeable. One shop also explained DK weight to me as Double Knitting, which is like holding two strands at once of sock weight...hence, sport or 'dk' weight as a result.
 
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