[eggplantlady]

Hi Everyone! I am a fairly new knitter and I have a few questions about yarn substitution. I would like to make the cover sweater in Warm Weather Knits by Deborah Newton. The pattern calls for Blue Sky Alpaca Skinny Cotton, 65 g/150 yds, 5-6 st over 1" on size 3-5 needles. Now for my questions: (1) I can substitute any yarn that is approximately 65 g/150 yds, and has a similar gauge, correct?; and (2) if I want to use a thinner/lighter yarn, I can simply extend the pattern by increasing the number of stitches cast on and increasing the number of rows as necessary, correct? Can anyone recommend a good, very light weight, and not too expensive (I know, this is relative) yarn for a cotton sweater? Here in the south we can't wear what would be appropriate in the north for summer time.

Thanks to all!

A new knitting maniac,

Kathi

 

[FireballDave]

Hi Everyone! I am a fairly new knitter and I have a few questions about yarn substitution. I would like to make the cover sweater in Warm Weather Knits by Deborah Newton. The pattern calls for Blue Sky Alpaca Skinny Cotton, 65 g/150 yds, 5-6 st over 1" on size 3-5 needles. Now for my questions: (1) I can substitute any yarn that is approximately 65 g/150 yds, and has a similar gauge, correct?; and (2) if I want to use a thinner/lighter yarn, I can simply extend the pattern by increasing the number of stitches cast on and increasing the number of rows as necessary, correct? Can anyone recommend a good, very light weight, and not too expensive (I know, this is relative) yarn for a cotton sweater? Here in the south we can't wear what would be appropriate in the north for summer time.

Thanks to all!

A new knitting maniac,

Kathi

Hi Kathi

I substitute like mad all the time, I use quite a few patterns from other countries and knit it in a locally-sourced yarn.

It's all about the stitch count and needle size and it's always easiest if you can find a yarn that knits to the same guage or tension as the pattern. 20 to 24sts over 4" using US5 (3.75mm) needles would mean you should be looking at either sportweight or British DK yarns.

If your substitute yarn doesn't knit at the guage specified in the pattern, converting instructions for a sweater is a tiny bit more complicated than simply adding a few extra stitches. The main part of the body is usually OK, but you'll need to adjust the neck and armhole shaping proportionately as well, that isn't so easy to do. Luckily there is a crafty dodge...

Knit a test swatch and compare your guage with the pattern. Now multiply up the number of stitches you are getting per inch by your own chest measurement and divide by two, allowing for fit; a good way is to measure across a sweater that fits you at the underarm. Look at the pattern and see which set of instructions has that many stitches at the same point. Whichever set tallies, if you follow those instructions your sweater should fit perfectly.

Sorry I can't advise on which yarns are local to you, but the staff at a good specialist shop should be able to help. Just because they're a specialist shop, it doesn't necessarily mean they only sell expensive yarns.

Hope that helps
Dave

 

[courier770]

I substitute yarns all the time and as Dave has pointed out this sometimes mean you have to not only change needle size but adjust your pattern as well.

As daunting as that sounds it really isn't all that difficult...you just have to be sure you made adjustments equally throughout the pattern..as Dave has already mentioned.

Along with all the other required "stuff" I keep in my knitting bag...a calculator is right in there with the stitch markers, tape measure, point protectors, tissues (for crying into), a calculator is a real blessing....beats those clumsy abacus'!

 

[FireballDave]

I substitute yarns all the time and as Dave has pointed out this sometimes mean you have to not only change needle size but adjust your pattern as well.

As daunting as that sounds it really isn't all that difficult...you just have to be sure you made adjustments equally throughout the pattern..as Dave has already mentioned.

Along with all the other required "stuff" I keep in my knitting bag...a calculator is right in there with the stitch markers, tape measure, point protectors, tissues (for crying into), a calculator is a real blessing....beats those clumsy abacus'!

Moving up or down a size in the instructions is frequently all you need to do. But I'm with Courier on this, use a calculator to check the figures if you aren't a maths wiz.

I would add, write down the answers, go away and make a pot of tea, then sit down and do all the sums again. If the answers tally, go ahead; if not, keep checking until they do. It saves on tissues!

Dave

 

[lovethelake]

Salutations

I have found that when things don't need a perfect gauge, I substitute. But I love alpaca and that drapes much differently than cotton. So if I find a pattern I now just buy the yarn called for. This way I do not have tons of the wrong yarn in my closet(s). So if I were going to switch brands, I would make sure that it is the same composition, wpi, yards/oz, and gauge.

Good luck

 

[FireballDave]

I don't know if it's available locally, but you might like to look at Rowan Purelife Revive which is soft and quite light. It's a medium-priced blend of 36% recycled cotton 36% recycled silk and 28% recycled viscose. It knits at 22 sts x 30 rows on US size 6 (UK size 8) (4mm) needles so is within your range.

Dave

 

[courier770]

When knitting a "body" garment...gauge is very important! Learning how to apply gauge to a garment that actually fits the "body" is a basic of functional fashion.

I'd hate to walk into a shop and find a sign "we really don't know what size this stuff is, just keep trying them on until you find one that fits".

 

[FireballDave]

The big problem with mass-produced clothes is that because the various elements are cut out 40+ plus at a time using something like a band saw, the fabric moves and a 32" waist pair of jeans could be a size either way!

At least when we make things, they're one-offs and a bit more accurate.

But in knitting it really is important to get the guage/tension right, it's never a waste of time to knit up a test swatch. Besides checking the guage, you get a 'feel' for the yarn's characteristics and learn the best way to work with it.

 

[grandmatimestwo]

I love Plymouth Jeanne DK yarn. I have made baby sweaters, blankets, scarves....etc. from it, and it drapes beautifully. The colors available are lovely, and it washes great! My grandsons prefer it to any other yarn I use!

 

[RookieRetiree]

Dear Maniac Knitter -- Me too!! Thanks for asking this question and thanks to all of you who have answered the questions and provided guidance....I haven't tried a sweater yet, but I know I'm going to run into the same thing where I'll be needing to substitute yarn or figure out how to adjust the pattern for the fit I want....all of the books I've read suggest keeping a chart of the different measurements so that guage/size can be checked as you go along - I'm printing this written conversation out to use when I run into this...and a calculator is now going into my knitting bag.....

 

[eggplantlady]

Thank you all so much, your answers are invaluable. I now understand how to substitute yarns, received a few options on yarns to try, and have a fabulous "crafty dodge" to try too! I just found out that I have the day off so I'll have to spend it knitting, right? Happy Monday!

Kathi

 

[Schoeneckwren]

The trick is to ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do a test swatch first and be sure that the gauge is exact if it is a project where size matters. I learned this the hard way.

Wren

 

[courier770]

When I substitute I try to stay within the same "family" of fibers. In that I'll stick to a wool or animal fiber (though Alpaca isn't going to drape the same as wool or bison), I'll stick to plant fibers if that's what the original pattern calls for. I also always swatch.

 

[Sutallee Stitcher]

Knit Picks is a good place to look for yarn when substituting. Be careful though a lighter yarn may not drape the same way as the yarn called for.

 

[mjs]

It's a good idea to photocopy the pattern. Then you can scribble all kinds of notes on it, like different numbers of stitches, percentage of increase or decrease, etc.

 

[Homeshppr]

It's always a good idea to work a "swatch" to check gauge whenever you substitute yarn. Then you can adjust the size of your needles to reach the gauge of the recommended yarn.

 

[Lassie]

So glad someone brought this up! I often see patterns I like, but then cannot get the yarn specified anywhere locally. I do wish when those patterns are published, that the author would tell the reader that the garment pictured was knitted with yarn X, but any worsted weight that gets 4 stitches to the inch would do. Or at least say if the yarn used is DK, worsted, etc. I agree about swatching. A necessary evil. Also the reason it's a good idea to buy a little more than you think you'll need. And if the project's in stockinette, ditto for the swatch! Ask me how I know...

 

[courier770]

Lassie, any worsted weight to replace another seems like it should work, but it doesn't always. A worsted weight cotton is going to drape very differently from a worsted weight wool or alpaca. Likewise a DK weight hemp has a drape that is considerably different from a DK weight animal fiber yarn. While achieving the same gauge is mandatory, achieving the same drape is important too.

 

[napernana]

I'm so lazy and/or impatient I don't make an actual swatch when changing yarns. Yes, it has caused some disasters! I doubt that this is a good substitute for a swatch, but I've formed the habit this habit: when I've finished a sweater in a particular yarn and needle size, I measure a 4 in square and record it...so the next time I use THAT yarn, I have a clue at least. Sloppy, isn't it!

 

[napernana]

Has anyone had particularly good luck with a specific cotton yarn when knitting baby sweaters?