Thanks for letting us know the exact gauge of the Knittax AM3. It'll be nice to quote the 5.06 number now instead of 'a little more than 5mm'!
It sure does look close to 5mm and 5mm tools up to about 7 prongs work ok but the silver 5mm Passap Jac40 will not work on these machines, they need the gold colored one, and 33 prongs of the Passap 40-prong transfer tool do not match up with 33 prongs of the Knittax tool.
I think there were only a few machines like the Knitomat, the Prior Purl Knitter, and our Knittax/Knitking type of machine with this kind of spacing.
It's neither 4.5mm nor 5mm. It's based on the imperial measure of 5 needles per inch which is a little more than 5mm.
I think it's the Knitking S4 that has the row counter in the front? These machines all knit without weights with spring-operated sinkers and I believe were sold as Knitking in the US, Knittax in Germany, and Knitmaster in the UK. There are some differences in the way the carriages and the yarn carriers look and the older models had the yarn placed directly across the needles.
It looks like your ribber is one of the earlier ones where in the first pass the main carriage knits the main bed stitches and places the yarn around the needles of the ribber. In a separate pass, the ribber carriage pulls the ribber needles with the yarn around them down and through the existing stitches to form a new ribbing row. In the newer models, like the AM3, the carriages were joined together and formed stitches on both beds in one pass.
These machines have held up well over the years and mine still knit smoothly, I have several different models. Did yours come with a yarn carrier and other accessories?
Don't feel that way, glad to hear you were successful the whole time!!
Ok, I tried this footie on the Bond which also has no levers and instead of hanging the two claw weights on the front of the knitting, I hung them on the back of the knitting, teeth coming through to the front. This seems to make short-rowing easier because it allows the weights to hang down freely and put more pull on the stitches. Maybe you can try it and see if it helps any.
Is the sponge in your LK 100 in good shape? Does your machine do ok when just knitting back and forth with this yarn or another yarn? I got my LK 100 out a few minutes ago and saw that the sponge has turned crumbly after I haven't used it in a few years. Was told about this and now can see for myself, it does happen. Will have to get another sponge before I can try it out.
What problem are you having? You wouldn't be able to start as she does by e-wrapping the needles and then pushing the levers so they knit the holding/resting needles back automatically. You would have to push the needles half-way back manually and make sure that the latches are all open. Even at that, I'm not sure if it would work without any weight on the needles with the LK 100. You might have to knit the first row by hand, stitch by stitch and then hang claw weights as she does. You will need those or something similar. Or use a cast-on rag (any piece of knitting) and a row of ravel cord (or dental floss) before e-wrapping so there is something to hook the weights to.
Short-rowing takes a lot of weight or some stitches between the holding/resting needles won't want to knit. Especially the first one or two needles after a needle that is all the way forward. You can help by pushing that first and second needle half-way forward before knitting back in the other direction.
Let us know if you are having some other problem, it can most likely be figured out.
Sure, you can do short row decreases on the LK100. If it is something like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz6i0b4WL4k
, there are no levers needed. You just pull the needle all the way out for the stitch not to knit and then push it half-way back, checking that the latch is open, to knit the stitch again.
You push a needle all the way out to D (resting position for working needles - per manual) so it won't knit. For a carriage with no levers like the LK 100, when you want that needle to knit again, you push it back to C (knitting position for rested needles - per manual).
Most carriages have levers that make this easier so that needles will knit back automatically from resting position but some very basic ones do not have any levers at all. If you get an LK 150, I believe that carriage will also work on the LK 100 and then you'll also have levers to work with.
Great!! Glad you found the manual, let us know how it works when you get a chance to try it out! Maybe you could share the manual someplace like http://machineknittingetc.com
in case someone else might need it. I imagine they didn't sell a lot of these tables because of the price but it's always sad when you buy a machine or gadget without a manual or link to a place where it can be found.
Apparently you can't do full fisherman's rib on bulky and midgauge Singer/Studio machines, see link below.https://www.knittingparadise.com/t-381697-1.html
It does say in my mid-gauge 860 ribber manual not to set the lever to fair isle (F), Punch Lace (L) or Tuck (T) when using the ribber.
knitasha, would you be able to point me to the felt stripping you have used in the past?
I have a Bulky 8 with ribber and a Singer 120. Two beds have metal bars and sponges and they work ok but I can't tell for sure what was used and the 120 has neither bar nor sponge. The sponge looks like it's about 3/8" wide and about 1/8" thick. It still has the paper backing on it so I'm guessing it's weather stripping. The paper has folded down where it comes out of the metal, enclosing the foam and is on top of the needles.
For the bed that has neither bar nor sponge, I marked and cut a length of clear plastic and folded it into a bar shape with pliers. (I saved plastic from packaging a long time ago to use as windows in doll houses.) I cut a piece of foam, stitched a piece of satin ribbon around it and put that in the plastic bar. It went into the channel and seems to work but of course it's not long enough and I'm not sure how to attach several pieces together. Fairly thin cardboard worked too but it seemed not strong enough when two lengths were glued together. What's also good about the stiff plastic is that when you squeeze the sides together a little to hold the foam in place, it stays in position.
Do you know what the original foam bar was like? Did it have something on top like satin?
What's nice about this machine is that all carriages have the same levers unlike the newer ribber carriages that don't. And the needles and tools work with the Bond machines. It's too bad they stopped making the bars.
I have sold many of the Bulky 8s and replaced the ... (
These accessories were in two Knitking magazines in 1973:
Still trying to find instructions for the motor drive that comes with the am3 knitting machine. Can anyone help? Pictures attached
Just wanted to let you know that the needles for the Bulky 8 and SK 120 as well as their ribbers are the same needles as those for the Bond Incredible or Ultimate Sweater Machine. Also the tools can be used on any of the machines since they have the same 8mm needle spacing.